What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (37 Viewers)

[flee]

Eventually vibration will crack that fitting with the tee and associated weight hanging from it, been there done that…just FYI.

While the remote possibility may exist, the materials chosen would seem to be up to the task, in this case 3xx stainless steel. 5 years so far.

 

[Biscuit]

Started on replacing the wheel cylinders on the front driver side drum brake. Looks like the rear cylinder of the pair is the one that failed. At least it had the courtesy of failing in my driveway.

Now I'm waiting on one bolt to soak with penetrating oil so I can get that wheel cylinder off. Hopefully another night of soaking will help.

I was tempted to use this as an excuse to do a disc swap. But decided with how much (or in my case little) I drive my 40 it's not worth it.

New wheel cylinders are in and bled. Unfortunately the power bleeder I have once again decided to leak at the "universal" reservoir cap and sent brake fluid raining down on the steering box.

Pedal feel is already much better.

I kept the old wheel cylinders to maybe rebuild at some point. Went with new wheel cylinders in the interest of time.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Driving home the other day I glanced down at the gauges and saw...

...THAT I HAD ZERO OIL PRESSURE!!!

I pulled over immediately.This happened once before after I had the engine out and didn't get the connector to the sending unit back on correctly. I hoped it was the same thing after changing out all the hoses. It wasn't. This time the connector broke off completely.

View attachment 3850974

Ten minutes and a new brass connector was crimped on. I use this tool but there may be better options available. I like it because it's a no-frills option. Packard Electric 086285847.

http://texasindustrialelectric.com/6285847_tools.asp

Packard Electric Hand Crimping Tool #06285847 – TZSupplies.com

Find Packard Electric Hand Crimping Tool #06285847 in Niles, Michigan, United States, for US $29.95. Packard Electric Hand Crimping Tool #06285847, Will Crimp Packard Male & Female Terminals 20-14 Gauge, A multi-use hand crimper, This one will crimp many Delphi terminals Packard 56 Series...

www.tzsupplies.com

Semi-float rear diff locker options: ARB, Detroit, Auburn, or a lunchbox. That's it. There's no e-locker available until you go full float.

I am interested in exactly how you disassembled the connector. I have tried a couple different approaches and haven't found the locking clip yet. Also, where did you get the new connector?

 

[knuckle47]

I am interested in exactly how you disassembled the connector. I have tried a couple different approaches and haven't found the locking clip yet. Also, where did you get the new connector?

I did get a few from @ToyotaMatt but I believe they are also available in some electronics outlets.. @Engineer8000 may have a better thought. I may have acquired some from DUI Performance distributors …they are not the same but they worked

Battery and Tachometer Connectors – Performance Distributors

performancedistributors.com

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I mounted the tent on top of the metal tech family roll cage (Metal Tech FJ40 Land Cruiser Pre-built Full Profile Roll Cage - https://metaltech4x4.com/metal-tech-fj40-land-cruiser-pre-built-full-profile-roll-cage/?sku=MT-FJ40-15010&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_Yq-BhC9ARIsAA6fbAiTmbz5aJ3wjk4ugvSKqYVIe-JZtKDzudxslp-KZzdxLzHPrjMnBDsaAhilEALw_wcB) we welded together. When we built the roll cage, we tried to make the top as flat as possible to accommodate mounting a tent. This took a little work but we managed to get the B pillar height at the same height as both the A and C pillars. With thatdone we went ahead and welded 90° tabs inside of the cage to accommodate single M8 through bolts. Using the bottom track of the Rhino Rack recon cross bars bars (Roof Rack Parts | Bars - https://www.rhinorack.com/en-us/products/roof-rack-extras/roof-rack-parts/bars) and through bolts we mounted the two crossbars. The RTT then lays on top of the crossbars and using a different set of 90° brackets on the side tracks of the Rhino Rack Recon deck bars we mount the tent. The Recon bars makes it incredibly simple due to having usable mounting tracks on all four sides of the bars and because the deck bars are incredibly stout. Hopefully that makes sense. See the pics below for more detail.

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is the tail gate one of those abs ones or is it painted black?

 

[Engineer8000]

I did get a few from @ToyotaMatt but I believe they are also available in some electronics outlets.. @Engineer8000 may have a better thought. I may have acquired some from DUI Performance distributors

@ToyotaMatt sells them

( Single Wire Type ) TOYOTA Oil Pressure Sending Unit Sensor Switch Connector Wire Harness Repair Kit - VintageTEqParts.com

TOYOTA Oil Pressure Sending Unit Sensor Switch Connector Wire Harness Repair Kit Fits 1964-1990 FJ40, 55 , 60, 62...

vintageteqparts.com

 

[steffan]

Put the steering column cover on with key delete cover - it was touch and go for a while trying to get the turn signal wiring all tied into the main harness but it all came together ('76 column in a '72) - while taking the pictures I noticed I had forgotten to put the high beam indicator lens back in the cover - doh! I get to do it one more time....

 

[Augustiron]

@steffan
What liner/paint product did you spray your interior with? Looks like a very small amount of texture, which is what I am looking for as well.
Build Looks great!

 

[tex45]

Spring is here, so had to get topless

 

[charliemeyer007]

I have taken a female spade connector out of the cover, cut a narrow slot in the brass spade and the back of the plastic cover - reassemble the pieces, crimp onto your wire and then press the connector on to the sender.

 

[Grayscale]

Points and carbs rule! I just learned a new way to diagnosis a distributor's points-set. Using a low-watt test-light to identify a no-spark situation. Huh.
It probably would be the same as using the multimeter that I already carry in my trail-kit, depending on how quick the multimeter is. However, the test-light is old-school cool. EFI is just a computer-controlled carburetor's power-valve. As practical as a collection of vinyl records, 2F-life is sweet at a 7.8-to-1 compression ratio. I need to fab up a tool roll for the FJ40 glove box.

 

[1911]

Points and carbs rule! I just learned a new way to diagnosis a distributor's points-set. Using a low-watt test-light to identify a no-spark situation. Huh.
It probably would be the same as using the multimeter that I already carry in my trail-kit, depending on how quick the multimeter is. However, the test-light is old-school cool.

Used to use a test light to set the timing on everything, back in the 70's when I made a living as a motorcycle mechanic. Makes me wonder what happened to my test light - I had one about the size of a cigarette (but thick enough to hold an A or AA battery) with a built-in alligator clamp on the bottom of the tool, so you could clamp it (and ground it at the same time) to the base of the distributor or circuit breaker, and have a hand free to rotate the engine with the kick starter.

 

[steffan]

@steffan
What liner/paint product did you spray your interior with? Looks like a very small amount of texture, which is what I am looking for as well.
Build Looks great!

Thank you - Raptor liner that was slightly thinned and then sprayed on.

 

[MatthewMcD]

Points and carbs rule! I just learned a new way to diagnosis a distributor's points-set. Using a low-watt test-light to identify a no-spark situation. Huh.
It probably would be the same as using the multimeter that I already carry in my trail-kit, depending on how quick the multimeter is. However, the test-light is old-school cool. EFI is just a computer-controlled carburetor's power-valve. As practical as a collection of vinyl records, 2F-life is sweet at a 7.8-to-1 compression ratio. I need to fab up a tool roll for the FJ40 glove box.

Great video! I love it when folks walk through the troubleshooting actually showing you the "broken" condition. A while back I had a no spark condition due to my distributor grounding out on a failed plastic distributor terminal. I used the test light she had, a multimeter with audible continuity and an air gap spark checker like this one. https://amzn.to/4io4jRu (Her's looks cool though...)

I agree with you, points and carbs are cool. I know some folks run electronic ignition and keep a set of points in the tool roll.

 

[Grayscale]

Great video! I love it when folks walk through the troubleshooting actually showing you the "broken" condition. A while back I had a no spark condition due to my distributor grounding out on a failed plastic distributor terminal. I used the test light she had, a multimeter with audible continuity and an air gap spark checker like this one. https://amzn.to/4io4jRu (Her's looks cool though...)

I agree with you, points and carbs are cool. I know some folks run electronic ignition and keep a set of points in the tool roll.

So, I'm probably on a whim here, but, I've heard that the electronic ignition upgrade has a couple of problems in a regular points-era distributor. If your small-cap distributor is using a higher-voltage output coil, it is more probable that a spark will discharge on the igniter module, damaging it, like when a plug wire is loose and the coil keeps charging up. Carbon on internal distributor surfaces might play a role. The points set-up was running with a 20,000-volt coil, the electronic ignition upgrade is like 40,000 volts, and without the points-shield under the rotor. I wonder if the Nippon Denso coil will run with fully electronic ignition?

 

[FJ40Tiger]

Went for a drive out to the pond.

 

[mef0629]

So, I'm probably on a whim here, but, I've heard that the electronic ignition upgrade has a couple of problems in a regular points-era distributor. If your small-cap distributor is using a higher-voltage output coil, it is more probable that a spark will discharge on the igniter module, damaging it, like when a plug wire is loose and the coil keeps charging up. Carbon on internal distributor surfaces might play a role. The points set-up was running with a 20,000-volt coil, the electronic ignition upgrade is like 40,000 volts, and without the points-shield under the rotor. I wonder if the Nippon Denso coil will run with fully electronic ignition?

My two cents, I own a 75 2002 BMW and it has the electronic ignition and it fires right up! My FJ40 is completely stock and I drive her 3 or 4 times a week she fires right up! IMO It just depends how often you drive your vehicles....

 

[MatthewMcD]

So, I'm probably on a whim here, but, I've heard that the electronic ignition upgrade has a couple of problems in a regular points-era distributor. If your small-cap distributor is using a higher-voltage output coil, it is more probable that a spark will discharge on the igniter module, damaging it, like when a plug wire is loose and the coil keeps charging up. Carbon on internal distributor surfaces might play a role. The points set-up was running with a 20,000-volt coil, the electronic ignition upgrade is like 40,000 volts, and without the points-shield under the rotor. I wonder if the Nippon Denso coil will run with fully electronic ignition?

I have to ask, what does the igniter do? I understand how the primary and secondary work in the coil, but my ignition system does not have an igniter. The trashed distributor from the '78 engine does not have points, appears to be an early electronic ignition, but I don't have the coil from that engine to compare.

 

[Grayscale]

I have to ask, what does the igniter do? I understand how the primary and secondary work in the coil, but my ignition system does not have an igniter. The trashed distributor from the '78 engine does not have points, appears to be an early electronic ignition, but I don't have the coil from that engine to compare.

The Nippon Denso igniter /coil on the '75 USA Land Cruiser interprets the points position in the distributor, grounding or not, and sends a primary voltage (low voltage) signal to the coil. It is just less current than what would be running across the points set, and so, it needs not a condenser, and it needs less maintenance.

For fully electronic ignition, it uses an 'ignition control module,' 'signal generator,' or, 'igniter' - it does the same thing for the coil. But, instead of points-set, it employs magnetic pickup for induction. My understanding is the the equipment is sensitive to voltage, unlike a mechanical points-set, like found on original F motors. My understanding is the same part number is used for coils on late F and my '75 USA-model with the igniter.

 

[Jah310]

is the tail gate one of those abs ones or is it painted black?

is the tail gate one of those abs ones or is it painted black?

Metal unit painted black.