Green Bean
SILVER Star
I think that it sounds really good. Certainly better than it did before. Despite the video, it seems more quiet in person. I know that I'm a terrible camera person.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I would like to see your vid - it says its private
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
Got a set of front floor carpet from @Fj80oregon
Fits pretty good. I used some Velcro I had to stick it to the tub in strategically planned out spots (yeah right)…we will see how the wind treats it. Will put some mats on top of it once I figure out what I want to go with.
Fits pretty good. I used some Velcro I had to stick it to the tub in strategically planned out spots (yeah right)…we will see how the wind treats it. Will put some mats on top of it once I figure out what I want to go with.
This one is for the tech fans out there
Went nuts on the Superbright LED web site last week. They were delivered Saturday and I have started to place a few of them. The upper bulb in the front directional is amber… ( license plate bulb left is original, right is new LED for comparison ) also picked up that BA7 bulb for the lighted headlight switch, the upper dash pad mounted light, dome light and every bulb in the truck including the 5 dash cluster bulbs in cool white and green
I’m a fan. Did you get bulbs with internal resistors? Add resistors? Use a different flasher relay?
Ninja edit for one more question - Aren’t the top bulbs in the front markers supposed to be white?
@Polecat.. I did not use anything special other than the direct led replacement for these bulbs… 1156, 1157, 67 and their suggest fit for the bulbs that press in.
My test did not show any issues BUT I did not turn the directional signal on YET…ONLY the main lights…I’ll get back to you tomorrow
As for the top bulb being white..they were…I just decided to swap them out for the amber on a whim. They're certainly bright and I also have them in cool white ( for the purist part of me later )
My test did not show any issues BUT I did not turn the directional signal on YET…ONLY the main lights…I’ll get back to you tomorrow
As for the top bulb being white..they were…I just decided to swap them out for the amber on a whim. They're certainly bright and I also have them in cool white ( for the purist part of me later )
Just like a GR Corolla!
Will be eagerly awaiting the results of your test. Assuming you’ve swapped both front and back, there likely won’t be enough resistance, meaning your turn signals will light up but won’t flash.
I’ve tried a handful of electronic flashers. Many work, but I haven’t found any that make the “click-click” sound. I’ve sort of put that on the back burner, but I’m sort of leaning toward putting the OEM flasher relay back and replacing the LEDs with units that are internally resisted. Alternatively, I’m happy to keep it on the back burner to give you time to figure it out
@Polecat Well now that you’ve mentioned this…as pitch black as it is right now at 12:22AM, I would go out the the barn and start messing with it…but, it’s been a long day and I sleep like S#!t so I will get it done in the morning. I don’t really hear the click-click of the flasher given the ambient noise level in the cab but I should see the green indicators in the dash cluster easily. Especially with the LED bulbs in there now. If I need to change the flasher, I would do that in order to maintain the higher visibility of the LED’s. Although to some drivers, visibility means a good kick in the butt
ADDITIONAL RANT:
I’m guessing KC is Kansas City? Here in NJ….NO ONE uses directional signals.. a pet peeve of mine. Having lived in Vermont, the ‘MUST USE SIGNALS WHEN CHANGING LANES’ law was seriously enforced…so, wife and I always use them. Between texting, phones and uninformed drivers, it’s a tough and heavily trafficked ride. I have asked cop friends of mine…. If you are trying to catch fish in a barrel, why not pull people over for this NJ law?
They told me…if we tell the judge, he might make it stick but it gets tossed out routinely with haggling from lawyers so not many bother with it unless there’s other issues.
Visibility has a higher meaning to me for a few reasons …for another discussion
ADDITIONAL RANT:
I’m guessing KC is Kansas City? Here in NJ….NO ONE uses directional signals.. a pet peeve of mine. Having lived in Vermont, the ‘MUST USE SIGNALS WHEN CHANGING LANES’ law was seriously enforced…so, wife and I always use them. Between texting, phones and uninformed drivers, it’s a tough and heavily trafficked ride. I have asked cop friends of mine…. If you are trying to catch fish in a barrel, why not pull people over for this NJ law?
They told me…if we tell the judge, he might make it stick but it gets tossed out routinely with haggling from lawyers so not many bother with it unless there’s other issues.
Visibility has a higher meaning to me for a few reasons …for another discussion
Anybody care to share a photo of a 40 Series flasher?
I’ve been modifying original 60 Series flashers for use with LED bulbs for a while now, so they flash at the right speed. I just picked up a 1969 40 and I’m still pretty new to this world. Maybe I can modify these for LED bulbs though. I will say I tried on a late 70s mini truck and it wasn’t possible - there’s two relays and a bimetallic strip that actually makes & breaks the contact. I can tune a relay or oscillator circuit response speed, but without a full blown metallurgy study and access to manufacturing for bimetallic strips … not much I can do. Too bad the aftermarket flashers I’ve opened up are hot garbage inside.
I’ve been modifying original 60 Series flashers for use with LED bulbs for a while now, so they flash at the right speed. I just picked up a 1969 40 and I’m still pretty new to this world. Maybe I can modify these for LED bulbs though. I will say I tried on a late 70s mini truck and it wasn’t possible - there’s two relays and a bimetallic strip that actually makes & breaks the contact. I can tune a relay or oscillator circuit response speed, but without a full blown metallurgy study and access to manufacturing for bimetallic strips … not much I can do. Too bad the aftermarket flashers I’ve opened up are hot garbage inside.
Buy extra, they tend to have a pretty good failure rate.
@Polecat in keeping with my s#!tty sleep patterns I got up and went to the FJ40< turn on the signals and the left side works..a little slower but the right does not.. I removed the rear directional bulbs and replace the old ones…they both work with LED up front and conventional lamps in the rear…FOR NOW
That makes sense. One incandescent in the circuit tends to be enough resistance for the flasher.
I’ll let you know what I come up with. For now I have other priorities.
Interesting. I’ve found that to be generally true with a lot of LEDs, but not with what I’ve gotten from superbrightleds.
I’ve actually thought about hitting you up to see if you have any ideas. I’d be happy to work with you on this. Will try to find my old OEM flasher and will send you a few pictures. I’ll also be at SAS this year if that ends up being useful.
I’ll get a photo of mine but in 49 years I have zero clues that it might be original
FJ40Savvy
SILVER Star
I had lots of issued getting the flashers to flash at the normal rate Rapid Flashing Issue. I made some changes to the wiring(PO didn't have the the front turn signals wired properly) after this post and want to go back to see if these load resistors are still required. I have the flasher upgrade installed in my truck that uses a solid state flasher.Will be eagerly awaiting the results of your test. Assuming you’ve swapped both front and back, there likely won’t be enough resistance, meaning your turn signals will light up but won’t flash.
I’ve tried a handful of electronic flashers. Many work, but I haven’t found any that make the “click-click” sound. I’ve sort of put that on the back burner, but I’m sort of leaning toward putting the OEM flasher relay back and replacing the LEDs with units that are internally resisted. Alternatively, I’m happy to keep it on the back burner to give you time to figure it out
The thing that gets me about load resistors is that you're just immediately wasting all the energy savings from the LEDs as heat due to the current through the resistor. May as well leave the incandescent bulbs in at that rate. Sorry ... I hate load resistors. There's always a better way to redesign the circuit.