What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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Got a set of front floor carpet from @Fj80oregon

Fits pretty good. I used some Velcro I had to stick it to the tub in strategically planned out spots (yeah right)…we will see how the wind treats it. Will put some mats on top of it once I figure out what I want to go with.

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Went nuts on the Superbright LED web site last week. They were delivered Saturday and I have started to place a few of them. The upper bulb in the front directional is amber… ( license plate bulb left is original, right is new LED for comparison ) also picked up that BA7 bulb for the lighted headlight switch, the upper dash pad mounted light, dome light and every bulb in the truck including the 5 dash cluster bulbs in cool white and green

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knuckle47 said:
Went nuts on the Superbright LED web site last week. They were delivered Saturday and I have started to place a few of them. The upper bulb in the front directional is amber… ( license plate bulb left is original, right is new LED for comparison ) also picked up that BA7 bulb for the lighted headlight switch, the upper dash pad mounted light, dome light and every bulb in the truck including the 5 dash cluster bulbs in cool white and green

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I’m a fan. Did you get bulbs with internal resistors? Add resistors? Use a different flasher relay?

Ninja edit for one more question - Aren’t the top bulbs in the front markers supposed to be white?
 
@Polecat.. I did not use anything special other than the direct led replacement for these bulbs… 1156, 1157, 67 and their suggest fit for the bulbs that press in.

My test did not show any issues BUT I did not turn the directional signal on YET…ONLY the main lights…I’ll get back to you tomorrow

As for the top bulb being white..they were…I just decided to swap them out for the amber on a whim. They're certainly bright and I also have them in cool white ( for the purist part of me later )
 
knuckle47 said:
@Polecat.. I did not use anything special other than the direct led replacement for these bulbs… 1156, 1157, 67 and their suggest fit for the bulbs that press in.

My test did not show any issues BUT I did not turn the directional signal on YET…ONLY the main lights…I’ll get back to you tomorrow

As for the top bulb being white..they were…I just decided to swap them out for the amber on a whim. They're certainly bright and I also have them in cool white ( for the purist part of me later )
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Will be eagerly awaiting the results of your test. Assuming you’ve swapped both front and back, there likely won’t be enough resistance, meaning your turn signals will light up but won’t flash.

I’ve tried a handful of electronic flashers. Many work, but I haven’t found any that make the “click-click” sound. I’ve sort of put that on the back burner, but I’m sort of leaning toward putting the OEM flasher relay back and replacing the LEDs with units that are internally resisted. Alternatively, I’m happy to keep it on the back burner to give you time to figure it out 😁
 
@Polecat Well now that you’ve mentioned this…as pitch black as it is right now at 12:22AM, I would go out the the barn and start messing with it…but, it’s been a long day and I sleep like S#!t so I will get it done in the morning. I don’t really hear the click-click of the flasher given the ambient noise level in the cab but I should see the green indicators in the dash cluster easily. Especially with the LED bulbs in there now. If I need to change the flasher, I would do that in order to maintain the higher visibility of the LED’s. Although to some drivers, visibility means a good kick in the butt

ADDITIONAL RANT:
I’m guessing KC is Kansas City? Here in NJ….NO ONE uses directional signals.. a pet peeve of mine. Having lived in Vermont, the ‘MUST USE SIGNALS WHEN CHANGING LANES’ law was seriously enforced…so, wife and I always use them. Between texting, phones and uninformed drivers, it’s a tough and heavily trafficked ride. I have asked cop friends of mine…. If you are trying to catch fish in a barrel, why not pull people over for this NJ law?

They told me…if we tell the judge, he might make it stick but it gets tossed out routinely with haggling from lawyers so not many bother with it unless there’s other issues.

Visibility has a higher meaning to me for a few reasons …for another discussion
 
Anybody care to share a photo of a 40 Series flasher?

I’ve been modifying original 60 Series flashers for use with LED bulbs for a while now, so they flash at the right speed. I just picked up a 1969 40 and I’m still pretty new to this world. Maybe I can modify these for LED bulbs though. I will say I tried on a late 70s mini truck and it wasn’t possible - there’s two relays and a bimetallic strip that actually makes & breaks the contact. I can tune a relay or oscillator circuit response speed, but without a full blown metallurgy study and access to manufacturing for bimetallic strips … not much I can do. Too bad the aftermarket flashers I’ve opened up are hot garbage inside.
 
@Polecat in keeping with my s#!tty sleep patterns I got up and went to the FJ40< turn on the signals and the left side works..a little slower but the right does not.. I removed the rear directional bulbs and replace the old ones…they both work with LED up front and conventional lamps in the rear…FOR NOW
 
knuckle47 said:
@Polecat in keeping with my s#!tty sleep patterns I got up and went to the FJ40< turn on the signals and the left side works..a little slower but the right does not.. I removed the rear directional bulbs and replace the old ones…they both work with LED up front and conventional lamps in the rear…FOR NOW
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That makes sense. One incandescent in the circuit tends to be enough resistance for the flasher.

I’ll let you know what I come up with. For now I have other priorities.
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CruiserTrash said:
Anybody care to share a photo of a 40 Series flasher?

I’ve been modifying original 60 Series flashers for use with LED bulbs for a while now, so they flash at the right speed. I just picked up a 1969 40 and I’m still pretty new to this world. Maybe I can modify these for LED bulbs though. I will say I tried on a late 70s mini truck and it wasn’t possible - there’s two relays and a bimetallic strip that actually makes & breaks the contact. I can tune a relay or oscillator circuit response speed, but without a full blown metallurgy study and access to manufacturing for bimetallic strips … not much I can do. Too bad the aftermarket flashers I’ve opened up are hot garbage inside.
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I’ve actually thought about hitting you up to see if you have any ideas. I’d be happy to work with you on this. Will try to find my old OEM flasher and will send you a few pictures. I’ll also be at SAS this year if that ends up being useful.
 
I’ll get a photo of mine but in 49 years I have zero clues that it might be original
 
Polecat said:
Will be eagerly awaiting the results of your test. Assuming you’ve swapped both front and back, there likely won’t be enough resistance, meaning your turn signals will light up but won’t flash.

I’ve tried a handful of electronic flashers. Many work, but I haven’t found any that make the “click-click” sound. I’ve sort of put that on the back burner, but I’m sort of leaning toward putting the OEM flasher relay back and replacing the LEDs with units that are internally resisted. Alternatively, I’m happy to keep it on the back burner to give you time to figure it out 😁
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I had lots of issued getting the flashers to flash at the normal rate Rapid Flashing Issue. I made some changes to the wiring(PO didn't have the the front turn signals wired properly) after this post and want to go back to see if these load resistors are still required. I have the flasher upgrade installed in my truck that uses a solid state flasher.

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FJ40Savvy said:
I had lots of issued getting the flashers to flash at the normal rate Rapid Flashing Issue. I made some changes to the wiring(PO didn't have the the front turn signals wired properly) after this post and want to go back to see if these load resistors are still required. I have the flasher upgrade installed in my truck that uses a solid state flasher.

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The thing that gets me about load resistors is that you're just immediately wasting all the energy savings from the LEDs as heat due to the current through the resistor. May as well leave the incandescent bulbs in at that rate. Sorry ... I hate load resistors. There's always a better way to redesign the circuit.
 
CruiserTrash said:
There's always a better way to redesign the circuit.
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I fundamentally disagree.
The system works perfectly as designed.
You start switching bulbs out then yes you need to redesign it.
Once you've done all that, you've spent significant money to make an LED flash with the same brightness and frequency as the original. You could just replace the light bulb, save your money, and your time, and redesign something that doesn't work.
Not everything that is made to bolt on your vehicle makes it work better. It's design purpose is not "to make a landcruiser better" it's "to separate morons from their currency."
It's important to realize that most of the crap on Amazon is actual crap, which someone else is going to have to un-do.
Just run the stinking bulbs.
Buy a box, not a blister pack, and you'll have your blinkers fixed for under $10.
 
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