What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (128 Viewers)

[Jram100]

Not an OEM t-belt. Odds are the water pump, tensioner, and pulleys aren’t either...I would replace with the Aisin TKT-021 kit just to get that aftermarket and/or never-replaced-high-mileage stuff out of there.

Thanks for the info, i just ordered this kit which also has cam and crank seals:

Pardon Our Interruption...

as well as the aisin fan bracket.

This all started with doing a starter, then it was "while im in there I'll do the valve cover gaskets and fix the squeaky drive belt"

here we go....

 

[JunkCrzr89]

, i just ordered this kit which also has cam and crank seals:

I would cancel that order. Those eBay kits have a high probability of being comprised of counterfeit parts. Also, $350 is ridiculously high!

 

[RoughOne]

New wheels and rubber!

 

[Jram100]

I would cancel that order. Those eBay kits have a high probability of being comprised of counterfeit parts. Also, $350 is ridiculously high!

Thanks, I’ll shop around

 

[04gto]

How has it held up over the last few years. Functionally all good?

Works perfectly. The best thing I can say is that I had completely forgotten about it. Like if Mr T installed it in Japan himself.

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks flint, I'll add to my date base.

There is one more reading and a side notation, I'd like to see from you, next time your in tech stream. If you don't mind me asking.

It's with engine off, running fuel pump through tech stream. FSM range is 38 to 44PSI. States replace FPR if pressure high. I'm seeing in 3 I tested 46 to 47PSI. Accuracy comes into play with any gauge. But still, I don't think 47PSI enough to justify replacing FPR.

One other thing I once notice (need to check closer, on some more fuel pumps) was; Fuel pump would pause about every 20 seconds. I do know others paused, but I did not take the time to see if keep repeating every 20 seconds.

I'll put that on my 'to do' list. I don't have TechStream but I should be able to monitor it through my TYT II scanner.

 

[04gto]

650+ miles after I tightened the valve cover bolts on the driver, confirmed that no more oil is leaking.View attachment 2616233

Left the lx overnight outside with 40°F temps and the next time I used it the timing belt was flapping around, the timing belt pulley pivoted and the tb had no tension. Had to remove the Aisin tb hydraulic tensioner again to push the pulley towards the belt and reinstalled it again. Tb tight back again. Ordered a new Toyota OEM hydraulic tensioner 13540-50030.

View attachment 2616236
Took a visual inspection of the reman denso and looks to be fine, I just noticed I’m just getting 13.5V on an average with this alternator.

My Denso reman was also running 13.6-13.9. Then I did the diode mod. Now it runs 14.3-14.7

 

[alpine357]

1300 trouble-free miles for a long weekend in the desert.

 

[Sayer Lane]

Thanks for the info, i just ordered this kit which also has cam and crank seals:

Pardon Our Interruption...

as well as the aisin fan bracket.

This all started with doing a starter, then it was "while im in there I'll do the valve cover gaskets and fix the squeaky drive belt"

here we go....

RockAuto has the Aisin kit for $192. Quality parts, also comes with the gasket

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Once my engine warms up and the Denso Reman (from NAPA) the voltage is in the mid-13's. I have had it tested a few times and it has always tested good. Both on the truck and pulled and tested at my local Starter and Alternator shop (Dayton Quality Starter).

x2 - mine starts out around 14.2 and then stays mid/upper-13s after warmed-up.

I rarely see mine stay on 14.++Vs, highest I observed was 14.1V coasting at 67mph then dropped back to 13.6V (no AC or heater). The voltmeter on the gauge cluster is always at the half mark.

Back to today’s diy, the fuel sender I ordered last week came in, had fluctuating reading on the fuel level gauge even after a new alternator and 27f battery.

Replacement-install was straight forward, the heavy work was with taking out and installing the second row seats, would rate it a one job. So far fuel level seems to be accurate, and the one thing I noticed instantly is how the fuel needle jumps right up and how quick it goes up to the correct level/spot. One tell tale symptom I can share that the fuel sender is going bad, is how slow the needle settles to its correct level, it’s like watching it crawl.

 

[Comet]

CSF Radiator. $157 with a lifetime warranty. Not too bad to change but still a couple hour ordeal.

 

[red66toy]

Tearing into this valve cover job more and replaced the spark plugs... boy were the old ones hard to get out! They all had rusty threads, I was worried about the head they were so hard to turn. Thankfully they all came out and fresh ones are in the engine. Not sure how old these are? We have only had this cruiser a year.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

My Denso reman was also running 13.6-13.9. Then I did the diode mod. Now it runs 14.3-14.7

Interested with that “diode mod”, share more please

 

[blackohio]

trucks at jimahajer here in socal getting tbelt done. still waiting on lights to get bumpers on

 

[04gto]

Interested with that “diode mod”, share more please

You just need to find the 7.5 amp(?) alternator fuse under the hood (small j box near battery) and swap it out with this diode. You will have to Dremel a little plastic from the lower portion of the diode housing so it will seat correctly. Hold the diode and fuse side by side and it will be obvious which part needs the trimming. I think this took me like three test fittings and grinding in between. Maybe 5 minutes total. Got an extra .5-.6 volts for about $10.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/littelfuse-4149/lighting---electrical-16777/fuses-16615/fuse-blocks--universal--18449/b381070c3b6b/littelfuse-1-amp-mini-diode/02400113xp/4414229

 

[Jram100]

You just need to find the 7.5 amp(?) alternator fuse under the hood (small j box near battery) and swap it out with this diode. You will have to Dremel a little plastic from the lower portion of the diode housing so it will seat correctly. Hold the diode and fuse side by side and it will be obvious which part needs the trimming. I think this took me like three test fittings and grinding in between. Maybe 5 minutes total. Got an extra .5-.6 volts for about $10.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/littelfuse-4149/lighting---electrical-16777/fuses-16615/fuse-blocks--universal--18449/b381070c3b6b/littelfuse-1-amp-mini-diode/02400113xp/4414229

Are you running a lead acid or agm battery?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

@04gto thanks for this. I will check this out tomorrow at our local oreillys. Appreciate it.

 

[Jczajka]

Interested with that “diode mod”, share more please

Swap the 7.5 ALT-S fuse in the little box off the positive battery terminal with a 1 amp diode to get the alternator to charge the battery at higher volts; good for AGMs. Trim the diode plastic to fit with a razor. Hold the old fuse up to see what needs to be cut. Diodes only work in one direction and if its in backwards you'll get a battery light on the dash.

02400113P Littelfuse Inc. | Circuit Protection | DigiKey

Order Littelfuse Inc. 02400113P (F4748-ND) at DigiKey. Check stock and pricing, view product specifications, and order online.

www.digikey.com

 

[04gto]

Are you running a lead acid or agm battery?

Lead acid

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Swap the 7.5 ALT-S fuse in the little box off the positive battery terminal with a 1 amp diode to get the alternator to charge the battery at higher volts; good for AGMs. Trim the diode plastic to fit with a razor. Hold the old fuse up to see what needs to be cut. Diodes only work in one direction and if its in backwards you'll get a battery light on the dash.

02400113P Littelfuse Inc. | Circuit Protection | DigiKey

Order Littelfuse Inc. 02400113P (F4748-ND) at DigiKey. Check stock and pricing, view product specifications, and order online.

www.digikey.com

I just verified right now that ALT-S fuse slot in the engine bay fuse box, yes it has the 7.5A. Thanks!