No complaints. Works as advertised, sturdy
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
- Thread starter SHUSH
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- trail-tailor.com
100 SAS bracket kit is available.
J
100 Series Solid Axle Swap Bracket Kit
Kit comes with a PDF and alignment plates and/or measurements for installation. Used with an 80 series axles and wheel spacers (TBD by customer wheel offset). Modification to axle is required. We recommended that a competent welder/fabricator install this kit. Kit includes: Axle coil perches...
www.trail-tailor.com
J
MDK
Can’t dance
I wish that my wallet and I were competent enough to do this swap. Really nice work!100 SAS bracket kit is available.
100 Series Solid Axle Swap Bracket Kit
Kit comes with a PDF and alignment plates and/or measurements for installation. Used with an 80 series axles and wheel spacers (TBD by customer wheel offset). Modification to axle is required. We recommended that a competent welder/fabricator install this kit. Kit includes: Axle coil perches...www.trail-tailor.com
J
Carpeted my SS1 platform. Something I have been meaning to do since I bought it over 2 years ago.
Ebay carpet ($40 for 2 yards by 80"). Was going to do a camel tan, but knew I would get it dirty throwing tires, etc..back there. Dark Brown it is.
I used spray adhesive to secure it. The carpet is pretty forgiving for hiding any upholsterer imperfections, but by using one continuous piece, it does make it so it gets in the way of the hinges and does not 100% flat when folding away the sleeping platform part.
I'll see if there is anything I can do to fix that when I get the additional yard of carpet to finish the backside. Part of the reason for doing this was to also protect the pricey REI Exped Duo sleeping mattress I bought to put on top of this.
Ebay carpet ($40 for 2 yards by 80"). Was going to do a camel tan, but knew I would get it dirty throwing tires, etc..back there. Dark Brown it is.
I used spray adhesive to secure it. The carpet is pretty forgiving for hiding any upholsterer imperfections, but by using one continuous piece, it does make it so it gets in the way of the hinges and does not 100% flat when folding away the sleeping platform part.
I'll see if there is anything I can do to fix that when I get the additional yard of carpet to finish the backside. Part of the reason for doing this was to also protect the pricey REI Exped Duo sleeping mattress I bought to put on top of this.
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LCT
SILVER Star
Looks good. Any reason why you didn’t go with shorter legs? Is it for the storage space underneath the platform?
Thanks. It looks like I actually bought this 3 years ago almost to the day.
I don't remember much talk about leg options or height pros or cons at that time, but I do remember how ADGU guys said that a Coleman Party Stacker fits nicely under the platform at the standard height of 13"ish at that time. I bought 2 different colors of these coolers (1 for dry goods and one for ice and drinks) and have used them ever since.
They work great for my needs. The coolers don't fit super snug, so I have 2 cheap stadium cushions that I wedge in at the top to secure these for driving.
I don't remember much talk about leg options or height pros or cons at that time, but I do remember how ADGU guys said that a Coleman Party Stacker fits nicely under the platform at the standard height of 13"ish at that time. I bought 2 different colors of these coolers (1 for dry goods and one for ice and drinks) and have used them ever since.
They work great for my needs. The coolers don't fit super snug, so I have 2 cheap stadium cushions that I wedge in at the top to secure these for driving.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
In other news, we had sunny weather in the mid sixties here in Boise today. I spent some driveway time last night and today getting my new Icon stage 2 shocks and Nitro UCAs installed. Chilly this morning, but sunny enough to catch a decent spring burn.
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Easy stuff this week. Put in a Sea-Dog voltmeter/USB where the useless cig lighter was. Wanted the voltmeter because I became paranoid about voltage after my alternator died.
Also replaced all my lock solenoids and this window switch piece. Didn’t know it was supposed to light up like this.
Also replaced all my lock solenoids and this window switch piece. Didn’t know it was supposed to light up like this.
The War Wagon got new front wheel bearings today. When I put new wheels on it few weeks ago, I noticed that there was a fair amount of 12-6 play on the drivers side and a CONCERNING amount on the passenger side. Figured the bearings might be shot, so I bought new bearings and races, as well as new flanges, cone washers, etc. Started to take it a part and discovered there were no snap rings and that the nuts that old the bearings in were not even hand tight! Whoever did the last front brake job seems to have just guessed as to how to do it. 
Funny thing is, while the handling was a bit sloppy, it wasn't obvious to me while driving that the hubs were no longer seated properly. It just felt like an old truck!
Passenger side went back together great. Driver side I can't seem to pull the CV spindle out enough to get even the smallest snap ring in place. I can currently barely see the grove where it goes. Now I'm off to take a forum deep dive and see if there are any solutions. CV axel pull tool didn't help and neither did jacking up the LCA.
Funny thing is, while the handling was a bit sloppy, it wasn't obvious to me while driving that the hubs were no longer seated properly. It just felt like an old truck!Passenger side went back together great. Driver side I can't seem to pull the CV spindle out enough to get even the smallest snap ring in place. I can currently barely see the grove where it goes. Now I'm off to take a forum deep dive and see if there are any solutions. CV axel pull tool didn't help and neither did jacking up the LCA.
WKOR Sliders on. Painted them a matte hammered-texture brown, that ended up being more blingy gold. It's probably ugly and tasteless, you all can be the judges. At least I can just rattle can over them if need be. Other option is to double down and do my wheels the same color.
Random tidbit I learned painting while painting: Rustoleum self-etching primer is a pretty good matte-finish match on its own to Riverrock Green Mica.
Random tidbit I learned painting while painting: Rustoleum self-etching primer is a pretty good matte-finish match on its own to Riverrock Green Mica.
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Are the grooves scraped up? I recently did my brakes and have a funky end of a CV. Pull from the back of the hub and hammer on the hub cover with the cone washers.The War Wagon got new front wheel bearings today. When I put new wheels on it few weeks ago, I noticed that there was a fair amount of 12-6 play on the drivers side and a CONCERNING amount on the passenger side. Figured the bearings might be shot, so I bought new bearings and races, as well as new flanges, cone washers, etc. Started to take it a part and discovered there were no snap rings and that the nuts that old the bearings in were not even hand tight! Whoever did the last front brake job seems to have just guessed as to how to do it.
Passenger side went back together great. Driver side I can't seem to pull the CV spindle out enough to get even the smallest snap ring in place. I can currently barely see the grove where it goes. Now I'm off to take a forum deep dive and see if there are any solutions. CV axel pull tool didn't help and neither did jacking up the LCA.
Also make sure it's heavily greased. I'll try to get a photo of what I'm talking about.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Used @TheForger tool?
On the raised nubs give a couple whacks with a broad hammer while pulling out on the axle with one hand. Should present itself. If not a bearing may not be seated right. Lock washers all tightened to spec?
I finally got around to ripping this stupid thing off. Getting that tire down was a s*** show...
I also finally adjusted the parking brake. Now it clicks 5 or 6 times instead of...all of the clicks...
I did use theforger tool. Stripped the head of the bolt being a little overzealous.l trying the get the spindle end to pull out.
Lock washers are tightened to spec. Breakaway force is within spec. Flange is seated firmly to hub. I’ll try whacking it with a hammer when I recover enough to try this again. Rear seal is seated flush to hub. Outer race is seated firmly.
Took the old dog to an Off-Road Park to try out some new mods.
