What parts do you recommend replacing on a 260K miles 100 series? (2 Viewers)
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Trunk Monkey
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If there's nothing else that needs to be replaced, just drive it.
Bushings? But honestly, unless you are somewhere super dry and hot, those may not even need changed. Those usually are worn more by location conditions and use case scenario, as opposed to strictly age/mileage.
Mike6158
Random Pixel Generator
Land Cruiser's are simply amazing. Mine has been sitting for years (5-ish). I have no free time to drive it like I used to and it needs the timing belt / water pump replacement, that I have parts for.
Last Saturday, because my pickup was getting service, I started it, noticed the fuel level was 1/4 tank. drove it to town, did some business, then drove home. 249,000 on the clock if I remember right. All in all I may have driven 15 miles that day. The gas was the same stuff that was in it when I parked it. On the way home I got a warning light and the engine was running a bit rough, and I blame the fuel. I'll take it in tomorrow and fuel it up.
I keep a battery tender on it but it died and I had to replace the batteries. It's a just a beast of an automobile...
Last Saturday, because my pickup was getting service, I started it, noticed the fuel level was 1/4 tank. drove it to town, did some business, then drove home. 249,000 on the clock if I remember right. All in all I may have driven 15 miles that day. The gas was the same stuff that was in it when I parked it. On the way home I got a warning light and the engine was running a bit rough, and I blame the fuel. I'll take it in tomorrow and fuel it up.
I keep a battery tender on it but it died and I had to replace the batteries. It's a just a beast of an automobile...
Fluids, brakes, and timing belt / water pump / coolant are the big ones, and you got em' all done + brakes, that's a big win... I say go out there and enjoy it....
Assuming all fluids covers front and rear differential, transfer case, transmission, coolant, oil....If you want a few more easy / cheap things to DIY you could, replace air filter, clean MAF sensor, make sure battery cables are tight and clean, check ground cables
what type of driving are you doing? do you find yourself hours away from service and in remote areas, or do you stay within range of civilization ? If you venture out far and need 100% reliability, or if you're just bored and want to start replacing stuff, then you could throw some money at parts like spark plugs, coils, fuel pump....You can go down a rabbit hole quick and if you don't do your own repairs it gets expensive. I've dumped at least $15k over 7ish years into my 100 series on stuff that was never like really broken lol
Assuming all fluids covers front and rear differential, transfer case, transmission, coolant, oil....If you want a few more easy / cheap things to DIY you could, replace air filter, clean MAF sensor, make sure battery cables are tight and clean, check ground cables
what type of driving are you doing? do you find yourself hours away from service and in remote areas, or do you stay within range of civilization ? If you venture out far and need 100% reliability, or if you're just bored and want to start replacing stuff, then you could throw some money at parts like spark plugs, coils, fuel pump....You can go down a rabbit hole quick and if you don't do your own repairs it gets expensive. I've dumped at least $15k over 7ish years into my 100 series on stuff that was never like really broken lol
After heater tees, fluids, brakes and timing belt, I’d start this list:
Cheers
- Repack front wheel bearings
- Snake sunroof drains
- Clean Mass airflow sensor
- Clean throttle body
- Cabin Air Filter
- OEM: 8856860010 (2 required)
- Fuel filter
- OEM: 23300-50090
- New PCV Valve ($15)
- Redesigned mid cycle.
- Pre 2003: PCV Valve 12204-50020 with Grommet 90480-18001
- 2003+ PCV Valve: 1220450030
- New spark plugs
- 9008091180 (8 required)
- Re-boot coils
- Denso ignition coil kit 671-8184
- Leatherique on leather
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #7
I travel 500 miles each way once a month for work.
3 years ago someone attempted to car jack me on this stretch of highway.
I want everything as reliable as possible for this trip.
Yes I have a pew pew but don’t want to get in a situation to use it.
Big things that typically need replacing after 20 years:
Bushings in all suspension parts
Steering rack
Brake booster
Charcoal canister
Valve cover gaskets
CV Axleshafts, especially outer stubs
Don't replace if they don't need it but these things may need it in the next 5 years.
Edit to add: some of these parts are being discontinued by Toyota, so if you don't get them, may be forced to buy aftermarket or rebuild.
Bushings in all suspension parts
Steering rack
Brake booster
Charcoal canister
Valve cover gaskets
CV Axleshafts, especially outer stubs
Don't replace if they don't need it but these things may need it in the next 5 years.
Edit to add: some of these parts are being discontinued by Toyota, so if you don't get them, may be forced to buy aftermarket or rebuild.
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How crazy do you want to get replacing things that don't need to be replaced? Take it back to the same Land Cruiser shop that did your baseline and pay for an hour of labor for them to inspect it. Replace what fails their inspection.
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- #10
Thank you! We’re on the same page as I’ve already done most of this list
I’m trying to get ahead of the curve. In my other hobby (vintage VW’s) I replace fuel lines every 2 years, regardless of miles to help prevent fires.
What parts are time or miles?
I paid LCH for a full inspection. They found stuff I didn’t know about and most of the list is checked off
Refresh entire cooling system. Radiator, all of the water hoses + clamps (including coolant reservoir hoses), heater tees, fan clutch. Then do all of the vacuum hoses, PCV valve, fuel vapor hose. CV axle re boot. Serpentine belt idler + tensioner. Door weatherstripping, reseal / replace 3rd brake light (water leaks into trunk). These are just some of the things I've done over the years - around 150k miles.
In my humble opinion:
Cooling system: radiator, all hoses, fan clutch, thermostat, tees, etc
Coil packs and plugs
Valve cover gaskets
Suspension bushings all around and TREs
That’s considering the baseline fluids, leaks, etc are in check and no other
Mechanical issues
Cooling system: radiator, all hoses, fan clutch, thermostat, tees, etc
Coil packs and plugs
Valve cover gaskets
Suspension bushings all around and TREs
That’s considering the baseline fluids, leaks, etc are in check and no other
Mechanical issues
cbbr
SILVER Star
I'm sure that you already know this, but if mine sat for a month at at time, I would put in a battery disconnect.
