I did my front bushing and replaced the rear and side arms of my front diff on Friday afternoon last week.
I followed @flintknapper method and used a 1-1/2” hole saw to core out the rubber. Then I used a wood chisel since mine are flat on one...
Start up rattle for some folks and you can completely avoid the 'mess' with a vertical filter by placing a ziplock bag over the filter (after loosening) and unscrew it, zip bag. Captures the oil and oil filter...then just work it either up or...
Yes, found what I think is a good match. Cleaned up wheels first (had years of road grime on them) then sprayed wheels. Let cure overnight then two coats of Matte Clear Coat. Holding up well a year later now.
Dad is right.
The drier is really just a desiccant bag on these units. It will look something like this: (may not be your part number)
The tube that holds it is on the side of the condenser.
The TXV (Thermal Expansion Valve) attaches to...
It was good preventative maintenance. At some point every unit is going to fail. How and when it fails....and where you are at the time determines the severity of that experience. For me.....it failed while parked and I had some prior warning...
Yes, resistance from the fan clutch (cold) is normal. At normal operating temps (summer weather) fan should spin all the time when the engine is on and probably forcefully IF your fan clutch is operating properly. In fact, many folks that live in...
Yes Sir. 'LIKE' year models share the same parts and design (even if you see different part numbers for each). Of course from year model to year model there may be some differences. But the brake system for a 99 LC and LX are the same.
The Condenser fan is designed to move air across/through the A/C condenser which sits in front of your radiator. While it is large enough to 'aid' in the heat exchange for that item (condenser) it would have negligible effect on the cooling...
Not normal, it should turn very freely. In fact, even a good breeze (vehicle still) will slowly turn the blade. IF you feel any resistance something is amiss.
You could just grind the splines out of your hub flanges and put them back on, then buy new flanges when you get the diff sorted…if your flanges are already needing replacement this is a pretty cost effective approach.
Edit: just noticed you...
I replaced the hardware but just make sure you clean everything up real good and make sure they’re still serviceable if you decide to reuse. Like not rusted or damaged.
IF you plan on keeping the vehicle long term then the entire unit (given current prices) is the easiest and best thing to do. The part has actually come down significantly over the last couple of years and is readily available for your year...
Axial direction yes. IF you overfill the driveshaft and the seal doesn't allow grease to pass you can unwittingly apply a LOT of pressure against the Tcase. The driveshaft as you know is designed to lengthen and shorten under suspension travel...
It may have been the 'first' your mechanic has personally seen....but it is NOT an uncommon failure. In fact, I'd submit it WILL happen to every vehicle at some point. The only question is with regards to which item(s) fail. Often it is the pump...
They might still be serviceable if it hasn't been going on for too long (and the squeak is indeed a U-joint). But unless you remove the driveshaft it is hard to tell what kind of wear they have since usually you can't move them because of...
I gathered up all the parts to do front and rear sway bar links.
I didn't see any good threads that spelled out the Toyota p/n's for doing this job.
I think I will start a separate thread so folks can find it easier than if it were buried in here.
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