What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (66 Viewers)

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Tearing into this valve cover job more and replaced the spark plugs... boy were the old ones hard to get out! They all had rusty threads, I was worried about the head they were so hard to turn. Thankfully they all came out and fresh ones are in the engine. Not sure how old these are? :rolleyes: We have only had this cruiser a year. View attachment 2616670
For sure they're not factory installed spark plugs. So at minimum your now on third set.

Spark Plugs I find the most difficult to remove Are ones anti-size used on threads. Stuff get cook into thread as plugs start walking out or not torqued in. Stop them from walking out, but not worth the risk of damaging heads.

I use one or two gas tanks with 44K to help free these up. One rig took three tank with 44k, and penetrating oil in spark plugs tubes. I end up uses a 3/4" breaker-bar w/3/4" fat extension I call "big boy". Could not believe, I was able to use that much force, without damaging heads. I spent 8 hours over 4 wks, coming back time and time again working them out. Each time getting 1 or 2 more spark plugs out. What a battle it was.

Same engine, I found all intake manifold bolts loosen on one side and some on other. So was DIYer with best of intention. Just poor procedure.
 
For sure they're not factory installed spark plugs. So at minimum your now on third set.

Spark Plugs I find the most difficult to remove Are ones anti-size used on threads. Stuff get cook into thread as plugs start walking out or not torqued in. Stop them from walking out, but not worth the risk of damaging heads.

I use one or two gas tanks with 44K to help free these up. One rig took three tank with 44k, and penetrating oil in spark plugs tubes. I end up uses a 3/4" breaker-bar w/3/4" fat extension I call "big boy". Could not believe, I was able to use that much force, without damaging heads. I spent 8 hours over 4 wks, coming back time and time again working them out. Each time getting 1 or 2 more spark plugs out. What a battle it was.

Same engine, I found all intake manifold bolts loosen on one side and some on other. So was DIYer with best of intention. Just poor procedure.
Thanks! That is super helpful info. I also just found your spark plug thread. I did put a little anti-seize on the threads though... The threads on the old ones were definitely rusty, nothing looked like baked chemicals. Hopefully its not going to be a big issue, but I will go back and re-torque later like you suggested.
 
Thanks! That is super helpful info. I also just found your spark plug thread. I did put a little anti-seize on the threads though... The threads on the old ones were definitely rusty, nothing looked like baked chemicals. Hopefully its not going to be a big issue, but I will go back and re-torque later like you suggested.
I'd pull then back out and clean threads of anti-size, from spark plugs and heads. Sooner the better.

I first found this issue with anti-seize, with one I put the very smallest amount on threads. I lightly wiped and blew off threads with HP air. As I did want any getting into combustion chambers, so for sure a very lite coating. 50K late replacing plugs, I was like WTF happen. Over the years, I've seen this a few times and spoken with season master Toyota tech. It's a big mistake on the 2UZ for sure. If the walkout a little, which they will in time. They will cook anti-seize in the threads. Looks a lot like rust.

I mention in this thread as I know so many follow it.
 
I'd pull then back out and clean threads of anti-size, from spark plugs and heads. Sooner the better.

I first found this issue with anti-seize, with one I put the very smallest amount on threads. I lightly wiped and blew off threads with HP air. As I did want any getting into combustion chambers, so for sure a very lite coating. 50K late replacing plugs, I was like WTF happen. Over the years, I've seen this a few times and spoken with season master Toyota tech. It's a big mistake on the 2UZ for sure. If the walkout a little, which they will in time. They will cook anti-seize in the threads. Looks a lot like rust.

I mention in this thread as I know so many follow it.
Thanks for the help. I will pull them :doh:
 
Interested with that “diode mod”, share more please :cheers:

There's a whole thread about it here: How to's and everything:


You can do it yourself or spend $50 and plug this in: MK3 Mini blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version) | HKB Electronics - https://www.hkbelect.com/product/104-mk3-mini-blade-75a-electronic-fuse-version-2006/

Hope that helps!
 
There's a whole thread about it here: How to's and everything:


You can do it yourself or spend $50 and plug this in: MK3 Mini blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version) | HKB Electronics - https://www.hkbelect.com/product/104-mk3-mini-blade-75a-electronic-fuse-version-2006/

Hope that helps!

That is sweet piece of tech but $50 😥
 
That is sweet piece of tech but $50 😥
That's in AUD, so about $39 USD. Definitely worth it if you want the extra voltage.
 
That's in AUD, so about $39 USD. Definitely worth it if you want the extra voltage.
Yeah... plus shipping. Nothing on a Land Cruiser is cheap and what's an extra 50 bucks after you just slapped on a Dissent bumper and a $400 second battery? At least, that's what I told myself when I pushed buy. I payed for the convenience of just plugging it in.
I am using #Gm Diode Fuse - PN 12135037 as a voltage booster in my Tundra, should also work in the 100s.

Lot cheaper and you just have to trim down some of the plastic casing for it to fit in your fuse slot.
A lot cheaper... That's the understatement of the year! But whatever, mine came from Australia. Sooo...
 
I am using #Gm Diode Fuse - PN 12135037 as a voltage booster in my Tundra, should also work in the 100s.

Lot cheaper and you just have to trim down some of the plastic casing for it to fit in your fuse slot.
That is a good unit there. The benefit of the Australian unit is it keeps the fuse protection = "Only unit available incorporating PTC electronic fuse protection, the PTC device offers unparalleled circuit protection and protects both the booster, the vehicles wiring and alternator in the event of a fault condition occurring in the vehicles electrical system."
 
Tint today. Will be nice out on the Moab trails this summer.

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This past week attended to the following tasks:
[] Transmission service(full)- drain, replace gaskets/seals and OEM fresh fluid
[] Lower (2) ball joints replaced
[] Solved wiring issue with LED light bar on front bumper
[] Replaced Optima battery
[] Front and rear brake pads replaced and blinged calipers
[] Tires rotated

Just about have my recently new to me 100 series sorted out and solidly base lined. While it didn't need much, finally feeling like it's mine🌵

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