What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (68 Viewers)

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Thus is what everyone is telling me....

If I pull the motor then I want to put in a new block
I was able to pull the timing chain cover without pulling the oil pans when I did my head gasket. It may not be recommended but its doable if you decide to go that direction.

The trickiest part for me was keeping the squarish O-ring(11328-66020) in place under timing chain cover. I did a couple practice runs and it ended up sliding off the cover a couple times. I ended up securing it with a couple dabs of grease.

For the FIPG, I added extra lines in the groove and near the leading edge of the upper oil pan. I also added FIPG to the bottom of the timing chain cover in a similar manner. I knew there would be scraping/squeegee-ing going on when I slid the cover on so I wanted to make sure that the extra FIPG was getting pulled in from the leading edges. Once the cover was on the block, I went around and traced a bead onto the crack between the upper oil pan and timing chain cover for good measure. I don't think this was necessary but I it couldn't hurt.

Its been 3 years and ~30k miles with no leaks.
 
Thus is what everyone is telling me....

If I pull the motor then I want to put in a new block

You can remove the pans with the engine in-frame if you do the following:
Unbolt the front engine mounts and lift the engine up about 2 inches. Next remove the front sway bar and front driveshaft. You also need to remove the power steering pump.
 
You can remove the pans with the engine in-frame if you do the following:
Unbolt the front engine mounts and lift the engine up about 2 inches. Next remove the front sway bar and front driveshaft. You also need to remove the power steering pump.
Just look at this as an opportunity and pull it. You can get to all the other goodies you have to be Gumby to get to while it is out and will be able to take care of a bunch of other goodies with "ease". Remember, it may be another 20 years or 200k - 300k miles before you get this opportunity again... Think transmission and rear oil seals.
 
This actually took the last few weekends but, using basic cordless power tools (no table saw 😬), my two left hands and mostly scrap wood from the garage (AKA: "budget build"), I built a slide out drawer & table for camping:



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Thus is what everyone is telling me....

If I pull the motor then I want to put in a new block
This is how I went from needing new valve stem seals in my 1fz to having a V8 under the hood. The “while I’m in there” is very strong (and expensive) with the 1fz.
 
This is how I went from needing new valve stem seals in my 1fz to having a V8 under the hood. The “while I’m in there” is very strong (and expensive) with the 1fz.
Tell me about it...the most dangerous drug is project scope creep.

My lesson learned is OEM interior parts do not qualify for "while I'm in there" with a new 1FZ turbo build...

EDIT: Just in case my wife ever reads this...painting the engine bay a new color 100% counts as "while I'm in there" when the motor is out!
 
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Tell me about it...the most dangerous drug is project scope creep.

My lesson learned is OEM interior parts do not qualify for "while I'm in there" with a new 1FZ turbo build...
Well, you need a boost gauge.. and it needs a pod, pod needs to match interior… next thing you know you have a 4k set of seats and alcantara headliner.
 
Well, you need a boost gauge.. and it needs a pod, pod needs to match interior… next thing you know you have a 4k set of seats and alcantara headliner.

Yeah exactly @MyWife!

My apologies if "MyWife" is an actual member here.

and I blame all of this on @Cruisers and Co
 
Whoa whoa whoa you found me! I take no responsibility at all 🤣 except for the turbo part... I'll own that 🍻
You want me to post texts?? Haha...

All kidding aside, we're build an awesome rig together and I love it!
 
This engine is already tired, it doesn't have a other 5 years of me whipping it like a race horse...

I know sacrallidge....
Yank it! Join the club!
 
I was able to pull the timing chain cover without pulling the oil pans when I did my head gasket. It may not be recommended but its doable if you decide to go that direction.

The trickiest part for me was keeping the squarish O-ring(11328-66020) in place under timing chain cover. I did a couple practice runs and it ended up sliding off the cover a couple times. I ended up securing it with a couple dabs of grease.

For the FIPG, I added extra lines in the groove and near the leading edge of the upper oil pan. I also added FIPG to the bottom of the timing chain cover in a similar manner. I knew there would be scraping/squeegee-ing going on when I slid the cover on so I wanted to make sure that the extra FIPG was getting pulled in from the leading edges. Once the cover was on the block, I went around and traced a bead onto the crack between the upper oil pan and timing chain cover for good measure. I don't think this was necessary but I it couldn't hurt.

Its been 3 years and ~30k miles with no leaks.
I am Listening...
 
Installed power seats from a 2012 Range Rover Sport and gave my interior a full detail (after 7 years of ownership🤣).
This seat swap hasn't been done yet and there were complexities to bypass the CAN Bus, but I'll be making a full write up with all the necessary info to make it straightforward for anyone wanting bougie lumbar AND bolster adjusting captain's chairs 😉

View attachment 3531541
Please add your details on this swap into the Compiled Seat Swap thread. Nice work!
 
Was able to sneak into the garage for an hour on Saturday and replaced the gutter mounts on my Prinsu rack with the updated brackets. I never had an issue with the original brackets but this new design is definitely MUCH better.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

I also swapped out my taillights for some cheapo LED ones. I wrapped up my OEM taillights and put them on the shelf since they're in good shape. I won't feel bad if I smack these cheap ones on the trail.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Now back to the big headache that's inside the garage hiding behind the 80. I'm gonna need to enlist some MUD help to get that thing finished up.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
Was able to sneak into the garage for an hour on Saturday and replaced the gutter mounts on my Prinsu rack with the updated brackets. I never had an issue with the original brackets but this new design is definitely MUCH better.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

I also swapped out my taillights for some cheapo LED ones. I wrapped up my OEM taillights and put them on the shelf since they're in good shape. I won't feel bad if I smack these cheap ones on the trail.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Now back to the big headache that's inside the garage hiding behind the 80. I'm gonna need to enlist some MUD help to get that thing finished up.
Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
So the updated brackets can retrofit onto older racks? I might need to look into this
 
This actually took the last few weekends but, using basic cordless power tools (no table saw 😬), my two left hands and mostly scrap wood from the garage (AKA: "budget build"), I built a slide out drawer & table for camping:



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Looks very cool, and I never thought to install the drawer sliders underneath vice on the sides. Is this something that you saw plans for, or just came up with this out of the box on your own? Do they hold up to stresses in that plane?
 

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