Builds We will name him Brutus. (9 Viewers)

[PabloCruise]

Dry fit was on wednesday - its being welded up as I type this. There are two of the baffles, and there is a 1/8" plate being welded onto where the sender goes so there is threads, tapped to 10-32. Vent and output are AN6 so I can AN6 to barb fitting. He says he put the mounting flange holes too close to the bend on the drivers side so it MIGHT be 1/4" off (will be fixed when I do the tank fitting on the drawing), inlet is a barbed piece of stainless. Should be ready for pickup on Sunday where I will sand it, prime it and bedline it

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What volume are you expecting out of that?

 

[BoomerUZ]

What volume are you expecting out of that?

its going to be approx. 37 gallons

 

[BoomerUZ]

I was also told to specify. The baffles are 1/8", and the mounting brackets are also 1/8" while the actual tank part is 14ga. the baffles weld to the bottom in 5 spots, and 3 spots on the sides. so structurally - im going to blow my back out tryna wrestle this thing in by myself

 

[BoomerUZ]

Well he came up this weekend. Tank is amazing. BUT. We had to cut the tow hitch out. To then find out the filler neck is off, so he took it back down the mountain to move it the 4" back, update the drawings, and will be back next weekend where I dont care if I have to weld the damn thing to the roof, im going to have a fuel tank in this and start driving it.

 

[BoomerUZ]

couple pictures of the adventure. Tanks fully tig welded and fits in there so perfect. V2.0 will just be a rectangle though, and smaller in each direction, but deeper to get the same capacity, but much easier to install. Fuel sender flange bolt pattern was also not correct on the internet, so he has the old tank to measure all the junk to make 2.0 better

 

[bobm]

Any reason beside $ you went with CRS steel???

 

[RUSH55]

Good times

 

[BoomerUZ]

Any reason beside $ you went with CRS steel???

Being steel I can make repairs to it if need be in the long run, it can take a bonk from rocks off road. I kinda approached it with a list of things I want it to be able to do. One of them being weldable, because I have had the mounting flange on an aluminum tank break off from a flippin RAIN GUTTER when going through an intersection, it was a PITA to have repaired because I am just a lowly MIG wielding peasant. For the inlet he refused to just do a piece of straight tube and said it HAD to be barbed. so its stainless barbed fitting, with 309 filler to weld to the 14ga steel. The AN fittings because then I can adapt it to fuel injection without too much effort and super easy to repair/replace unlike that weird fitting that was on the original tank you apparently need a security clearance to know what the heck it is (1/4" NPSM which you can only order online and its $4.... with 20$ shipping), and I can put a 6AN rollover valve on the top fitting, and then plumb the vent to the neck like the original design does (not that it will do much considering the design of the filler being lower than the maximum fuel level from factory), cost was definitely a factor as well because if I want to be able to offer it to others to save a good chunk of money from that other tank option thats out there, I cant pick something thats not cost friendly, but of course have it be expandable/modifiable by the end user in the event of variations such as the STUPID tow hitch setup on mine that is in the scrap bin now.

My buddy wanted me to do stainless and I just dont have that kind of cash lol but seeing as he has the panels laser cut from a file, he could do any material requested. but he wont be willing to sell any until V2.0 can be mounted in the car with minimal effort.

 

[BoomerUZ]

There may have been some mixups in accounting (my wife). because I put my deposit down for a gamiviti rack (i was allotted enough to make irresponsible choices). After much deliberation with the family, and my fabricator, the gamiviti looks more period correct, but for me they responded to my emails and stupid questions not only with the proper information but complete honesty. We went back and forth for a couple weeks on what I want, finally settled on a design and now we wait.

 

[BoomerUZ]

Alright so solution for my tank was to bolt to the lower frame rails until 2.0 is out. Brutus now runs and drives without running out of gas in 20 feet.

Now I have a separate issue. Feels like a misfire, and when i am driving it will make an air puff noise and like die out for half a second and resume right where it was. Its like the timing is off. Sound accurate or am I an idiot?

 

[BoomerUZ]

Okay I found an issue, it could be the entire issue but not sure. Cylinder 2 is getting no spark. cap is new, plugs are new, wires are new. Its only that cylinder as well, the others all have spark. Distributor issue?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Maybe. Swap two plugs and see if #2 is still not working. Or don’t if you tested by removing a wire at a time and doing a spark test against the plug - only to be done with insulated pliers btw.

 

[trainbufftony]

Okay I found an issue, it could be the entire issue but not sure. Cylinder 2 is getting no spark. cap is new, plugs are new, wires are new. Its only that cylinder as well, the others all have spark. Distributor issue?

Put the old cap back on, see if that fixes it if not work towards the head swapping components until you find your failed wire/plug.
I've had new (not toyota) distributor caps which were junk right out of the box.

 

[BoomerUZ]

I put the old cap back on, and attempted to start it and the engine froze. I pulled the plugs, still wont turn over. Not the starter because even the hand crank cant get the engine to budge. 83k miles and I am afraid it has given up. I put some oil down the plug holes and I am going to wait a few hours before I call it dead completely. But as of now, I am exploring the option of swapping my 1UZ in. So if anyone has some transmission/transfer case/driveshaft advice I am all ears.


Got the engine to spin over again, and now theres a sporatic rattle in the top end. I may have gotten lucky.
Further update. Pulled the rocker cover, and one was just SLOPPY in there. I think when I drove it 20 miles yesterday that everything unfroze and it was outta wack.

 

[Pighead]

I may have gotten lucky.

You may have dropped a valve? Pull the valve cover and see

 

[BoomerUZ]

I adjusted the sloppy pushrod, and the knock is gone when cranking. I am going to see if I can get a valve cover gasket to put it back on and see if its running better as well. We will see.

 

[Pighead]

the knock is gone when cranking.

Will it run without the knock?

 

[BoomerUZ]

Will it run without the knock?

I will see. I just ordered a new VC gasket, but im going to slop the old stuff back on just to see if that pushrod adjustment is going to be my savior lol

 

[BoomerUZ]

1000% something in the valvetrain of Cyl 3 which has the loose push rod (had, I did adjust it and this video is after) . Its not consistent, it comes and goes. its too fast to be bottom end. Maybe I just redo the head?

 

[Pighead]

If you're parked on level ground, you can run the engine without the valve cover on. Might be easier to know what's wrong if you can see it moving