Builds We will name him Brutus. (5 Viewers)

[riderjgs]

So I tried advancing - wont start. retard it - wont start. Put it on the dot, and it starts. At this point. I am exploring some options.

Do they involve dynamite?

 

[BoomerUZ]

Do they involve dynamite?

no they involve the hemorrhaging of my bank account on either electronic ignition or fully going EFI

 

[Pighead]

So I tried advancing - wont start. retard it - wont start. Put it on the dot, and it starts. At this point. I am exploring some options.

Are you adjusting the timing and then trying to start the engine? I adjust the timing with the engine running
Do you have a way to measure manifold vacuum?

 

[BoomerUZ]

Are you adjusting the timing and then trying to start the engine? I adjust the timing with the engine running
Do you have a way to measure manifold vacuum?

the SECOND the retainer for the distributor comes loose, the engine dies. id love to adjust it while its running but now it wont even stay running. So researching the Howell kit and just putting all this stock sh*t in a box somewhere

 

[trainbufftony]

Run a ground wire to the body of the distributor.
It shouldn't die like that I think it's not grounding correctly.
Ignition basics:
Power is provided to your coil primary winding. They're grounded by the points to the distributor.
Doing so charges the coil, as soon as the points open the field in the coil collapses and it dissipates that energy as a spark across the primary.
Maybe also run a ground strap to your engine block.
The distributor should work with the hold down removed. The symptoms you describe are more like a loss of spark than a loss of timing because an engine will run over a wide range of incorrect timing, go ahead and ask me how I know.
Hope you get it figured out

 

[Pighead]

Run a ground wire to the body of the distributor.
It shouldn't die like that I think it's not grounding correctly.

Yes.
Or maybe just a good ground to the engine block, test this with some jumper cables and see.
A new dizzy won't fix this and may even be more sensitive to a poor ground.
Check to see if you have a ground strap or cable, maybe it just needs to cleaned. I have a cable that goes to my right front motor mount, but I've seen some that go to one of the starter motor bolts.

 

[trainbufftony]

Not a bad idea also to clip an ohm meter across your ballast resistor and jiggle it.
Should remain under 100 ohms and stay stable!!!

 

[BoomerUZ]

this is why yall are awesome. I just looked and the ground from the distributor goes to the coil. thats it. Its not connected to the engine in anyway. so I am off to buy a ground strap

 

[trainbufftony]

I'd pull the distributor clear out, and just clean the snout of it as well as the hole it goes in, I'll bet someone painted one or both surfaces... Needs to be bare clean metal on bare clean metal for the distributor to ground.
The wire from the distributor is supposed to go to the coil and will have 12v on it when the points are open and zero when they're closed, once you ground your distributor.

 

[BoomerUZ]

I'd pull the distributor clear out, and just clean the snout of it as well as the hole it goes in, I'll bet someone painted one or both surfaces... Needs to be bare clean metal on bare clean metal for the distributor to ground.
The wire from the distributor is supposed to go to the coil and will have 12v on it when the points are open and zero when they're closed, once you ground your distributor.

hold on. the wire from the distributor that connects to the condenser is connected to the negative side of the coil? I just made a new ground wire for that. So the negative on coil comes to the distributor, which the condenser is on the same little stud. And the positive side of the coil goes to the fuel solenoid on the carb, and switched power. Is that now how its supposed to be?

also, no paint. only 83k original miles and sitting 90% of its life, engines just covered in dirt no paint lol for now anyway.

 

[trainbufftony]

The negative side of the coil is switched by the points and yes that's where the condenser is.

 

[trainbufftony]

The negative side of the coil is switched by the points and yes that's where the condenser is. The positive side of the coil should connect to switched ignition voltage through a ballast resistor, however you get that...

 

[BoomerUZ]

The negative side of the coil is switched by the points and yes that's where the condenser is. The positive side of the coil should connect to switched ignition voltage through a ballast resistor, however you get that...

ah yeah I just put a 10ga ground cable from that little post, which is what I assumed you meant when you said run ground wire to the body of the distributor, no?

 

[trainbufftony]

No. What I meant was that the aluminum of the distributor body, must have zero resistance to ground or the negative battery terminal.

 

[BoomerUZ]

No. What I meant was that the aluminum of the distributor body, must have zero resistance to ground or the negative battery terminal.

does that post not ground the body of the distributor?

 

[trainbufftony]

does that post not ground the body of the distributor?

It does not.
Grounding it will short your points so they don't (electrically) open and close. Also, current will be pulled through your coil until it overheats...
You want to tidy up the ground on the other sideof the points.
Points to points plate to distributor body, to block to a cable to the negative battery, all has to be clean, low resistance ground path, or no fun will be had.

 

[PabloCruise]

couple pictures of the adventure. Tanks fully tig welded and fits in there so perfect. V2.0 will just be a rectangle though, and smaller in each direction, but deeper to get the same capacity, but much easier to install. Fuel sender flange bolt pattern was also not correct on the internet, so he has the old tank to measure all the junk to make 2.0 better

View attachment 3705610

View attachment 3705611

View attachment 3705612

Yes, it looks like he put the filler neck pretty far forward.

 

[PabloCruise]

There may have been some mixups in accounting (my wife). because I put my deposit down for a gamiviti rack (i was allotted enough to make irresponsible choices). After much deliberation with the family, and my fabricator, the gamiviti looks more period correct, but for me they responded to my emails and stupid questions not only with the proper information but complete honesty. We went back and forth for a couple weeks on what I want, finally settled on a design and now we wait.

Tim is good people!

 

[PabloCruise]

Problem solved. I borrowed my friend bobs endoscope. there was a tiny piece of metal in the cylinder, which came from the plug. The plug for cylinder 3 was flippin exploded. The porcelain was cracked and the whole electrode was in the cylinder. BRAND NEW NGK V power plug too. Piece fished out, new plug put in, shes runnin on all 6 again ready to take me to work in the morning.

Darn, but yay!!!

 

[PabloCruise]

So I drove it to work. and it still just runs terribly. Its on all 6 but its still doing that thing where if youre trying to accelerate it will do a puff of air and stumble. Idles fantastically. can rev slowly no issues. but when you try to drive it just cant get out of its own way. Ive got all my spark. definitely got the compression. So I am looking at the carb I have a receipt from having freshly redone in 2018 by SOR and installed by the LC guy for camelback toyota who has since gone on his own. got the spark. I know im gettin the fuel to the carb. I know I have the compression. So now I bring into question the fuel delivery

Or a vacuum leak...
Those can make your life miserable.