Builds Tucker and Roma's 75 FJ40 Restore

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We got the tank from summit racing, i used the same one on my 60 to 12ht conversion and was really happy with it because it looks relatively stock. In this photo the vacuum plumbing is done
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We measured the drivelines and decided it would be easier to just order some tom woods custom shafts. the front has a double cardan joint and the rear didnt need one.
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If you would, what was the rear shaft length and the angle on the shaft? I'm looking at a similar rear shaft but for me it looks like I may need the DC shaft. Just curious how yours is set up.

Thanks!

-Geoff
 
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Did quiet a bit of work to the driver seat frame to get the seat about 1.5'' lower and another 2-3'' back. i'll try to get some photos of what we did to do this. We also plated all the hardware since the seat was torn back apart. The base and springs in the seat are all powder coated and the foam is new from spector.
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The bj42 air cleaner we restored to use for this wont work so we got a donaldson air cleaner for it. I made this bracket last night.
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Fenders, bib, aprons, and hood are all bolted on and alligned.
The stainless diesel badge is from Jefferson state machine.
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Here is the donaldson unit. This is the same one i installed in my 40. Once we are finished making brackets they will all be removed one last time and sent out for powder coating before final installation.
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I'll send you mine to massage once I start the h55 conversion on my 40 :)
I need another project as much as I need a hole in my head.
Thanks for posting the part #s in your photos. Mkes a lazy man's job easier.
Yeah makes it easier for me to when I'm ordering parts for the next truck.
If you would, what was the rear shaft length and the angle on the shaft? I'm looking at a similar rear shaft but for me it looks like I may need the DC shaft. Just curious how yours is set up.

Thanks!

-Geoff

The shafts from tom woods were from the first engine mount design/mishap. We pulled them back out last week and sent them back with new dimensions. Now the rear shaft will have the double cardan joint...it is 18" the front shaft is 33" and has regular joints. Tom woods already made the modifications and the revised shafts should be back this week.
 
I need another project as much as I need a hole in my head.

Yeah makes it easier for me to when I'm ordering parts for the next truck.


The shafts from tom woods were from the first engine mount design/mishap. We pulled them back out last week and sent them back with new dimensions. Now the rear shaft will have the double cardan joint...it is 18" the front shaft is 33" and has regular joints. Tom woods already made the modifications and the revised shafts should be back this week.

Cool. Are you going to cut and turn the rear axle or use shims to pint the diff up?

-Geoff
 
Awesome project. Reminds me of the guy in the movie Planes when he says, "New? This is BETTER than new!"
 
Epic thread. This needs to be on the top 10 list of mandatory reads before anyone can ask a Newbie question on MUD.
 
What did you use for the transmission hump gasket? It seems to be discontinued through Toyota?

Cheers!
 
What a great thread. Beautiful work and dedication.

Thank you

Epic thread. This needs to be on the top 10 list of mandatory reads before anyone can ask a Newbie question on MUD.

Thanks!

What did you use for the transmission hump gasket? It seems to be discontinued through Toyota?

Cheers!

This tape we got at oreillys auto parts. It's usually used to wrap ac expansion valves. It doesn't hold moisture and seals up even the rough lineX

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Here is a better shot of the auxiliary tank. It's 23gallons and full aluminum. Has a pretty nice skid plate as well that is removable. It attaches with two u bolts at the front that pick up the tubular crossmember. Manafre supplied unfinished steel bolts which we quickly replaced with stainless ones and nylon stainless lock nuts with a quick trip to lowes. The rear we upgraded to 1/2 bolts...had to drill to holes in the rear crossmember for that. If you notice the bolts are on top and nuts are on bottom, once the gas tank is in place there is no way to get a wrench in there to hold the bolt for tightening. I actually welded a small 1/8 inch thick by .75" bar across the bolts to make a type of 'captive' bolt. The bar keeps the bolts from spinning when the nuts are tightened.

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Here is where the driver seat ended up after modifying the mounts and sliders. The rear entry latch just ever slightly touches the rear wheel well. Ive never been in a 40 with more leg room.

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We also replated all the seat hardware while the seat was apart.
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Front diff breather and bracket. We used a 60 series barb on the axle housing.
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Drive shafts are back and installed.
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Bracket I made for the washer reservoir that uses existing pick up points.
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