Builds Tucker and Roma's 75 FJ40 Restore (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cruiserfj08
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We got a new clutch slave cylinder and boot from toyota
To get some additional clearance between the fan and the shroud we got a new fan in the 2h/12ht variety that is about 1/2'' smaller diameter than the hz fan and still fits the original fan clutch
To get some additional clearance between the fan and the shroud we got a new fan in the 2h/12ht variety that is about 1/2'' smaller diameter than the hz fan and still fits the original fan clutch
dust cover boot for the hz bell housing
part number for the hzj105 a/c belt which was a pain in the butt to source
part number for the hzj105 a/c belt which was a pain in the butt to source
We measured the drivelines and decided it would be easier to just order some tom woods custom shafts. the front has a double cardan joint and the rear didnt need one.
Wow ... nuff said!
thanks! we WERE very happy with how the mounts turned out.
we got the good stuff to put into the new transmission and transfer case
Enough hz oil filters for the first 30-40k miles
New toyota parking brake cable and hardware for an 83 model fj40
Tub made it back from paint and we took it to line X for their treatment on the bottom side in black. Again we put heat shrink on all of the metal bands to hold the wire harness.
Enough hz oil filters for the first 30-40k miles
New toyota parking brake cable and hardware for an 83 model fj40
Tub made it back from paint and we took it to line X for their treatment on the bottom side in black. Again we put heat shrink on all of the metal bands to hold the wire harness.
Here is where we had a major problem. We attempted to put the tub onto the frame and the back of the cylinder head would not let the tub sit far enough forward on the frame. We made the mounts with the tub off the frame and i didnt realize how close it would actually be to the firewall. It was extremely frustrating to say the least. We decided to chop roughly an inch off the top of each mount and weld the top off it back on. After spending so much time on the shroud which i didnt take the final photos of it turned into a total waste of time. The drive shafts which were ordered with the engine tilted up a good bit in the front would now also be off and probably will need to besent back to tom woods.
Here is a picture of the mounts after the alteration. With the front of the engine back down relatively level we had plenty of room between the firewall but the fan would now pose another issue in itself.
After modifying the mounts we got the tub bolted in place with the energy suspension body mounts from the old rig. Now it was time to take a look at the transmission tunnel. We assumed this would be relatively simple since we were using the 40 series factory top cover on the 5 speed.
The transmission shifter hole kinda lines up but the entire trans tunnel is sitting on the top plate. The transfer shifter is not even close.
I started by modifying the transfer shifter hole. First I needed to weld up pretty much the entire existing hole.
The transmission shifter hole kinda lines up but the entire trans tunnel is sitting on the top plate. The transfer shifter is not even close.
I started by modifying the transfer shifter hole. First I needed to weld up pretty much the entire existing hole.
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We decided to use 60 series shifter boots on both shifters so, once I was happy with the placement, I drilled the holes and welded captive nuts for ease of installation and removal.
After I realized how much material actually needed to be removed above the transmission shifter I decided it might just be a good idea to use this spare fj62 cover I had laying around. It is raised on the back side, exactly what I need the 40 cover to do.
After I realized how much material actually needed to be removed above the transmission shifter I decided it might just be a good idea to use this spare fj62 cover I had laying around. It is raised on the back side, exactly what I need the 40 cover to do.
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In these pictures you can see how i had to cut the trans tunnel cover further and further back to get the cover to the trans. All the 40s with the factory h55 didnt have this issue since 79 and up rigs dont have a removable tunnel cover like this but more off an access panel. 83 and 84 model 40s had a slightly different access cover than the even the 79-82. perhaps all that to accommodate the 5 speed.
Line X by the way is a nightmare to remove. I had to clean it off with knotted wire wheel on a 4.5'' angle grinder.
here is how much i ended up cutting open the factory tunnel cover
here is how much i ended up cutting open the factory tunnel cover
captive nuts welded in place for the shifter boots as well
After i welded it and cleaned it up we used a body seam sealer on the bottom side between the two edges and also sealed the welds on the top side to give the whole piece a uniform finish
After i welded it and cleaned it up we used a body seam sealer on the bottom side between the two edges and also sealed the welds on the top side to give the whole piece a uniform finish
Here is the finished product back from line X. Definitely doesnt look factory to the trained eye but i dont think it looks too bad.
here is the tub back from line X
The fuel door is positioned up higher so there is no problem with fuel slosh. the interior tank is eliminated and a 23 gallon rear mounted tank will be used. With the fuel sipping hz and 5 speed we are hoping it should have a 420 or so mile range
The fuel door is positioned up higher so there is no problem with fuel slosh. the interior tank is eliminated and a 23 gallon rear mounted tank will be used. With the fuel sipping hz and 5 speed we are hoping it should have a 420 or so mile range
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shifter boots installed along with new shifter knobs for both sticks. We used butyl tape between the trans tunnel and the tub like on the last build. It is messy but seal really well and doesnt hold moisture.
On to the brakes. The late model rear axle with the single wheel cylinder on each side and self adjusting drums is a big upgrade over the original 75 fj40 brakes.
We got a new brake booster from city racer
to that attached a large bore advics master cylinder from a non abs fj80
We also got an adjustable prop valve for the rear circuit so the pressure can be dialed down. I made a nice aluminum bracket to hold it and made some custom brake lines to finish it off. The prop valve came from city racer as well.
We got a new brake booster from city racer
to that attached a large bore advics master cylinder from a non abs fj80
We also got an adjustable prop valve for the rear circuit so the pressure can be dialed down. I made a nice aluminum bracket to hold it and made some custom brake lines to finish it off. The prop valve came from city racer as well.
for the clutch we reused the almost new aisin clutch master and attached it to the slave with a stainless teflon coated line i got from jt outfitters. i used the same one on my diesel conversion. The original 2f has the slave on the passenger side and uses a hard metal line that goes across the firewall. With the diesel the slave is much closer so this makes for a cleaner installation
connecting the 60 power steering box to the 40 column.
the factory 40 flange that mounts to the rag joint is cut off leaving as much of the original shaft as possible. We got a flanged bearing from cruiser outfit that fits the steering column tube on the lower portion of the column. This bearing is awesome! If fits in the column with a few gentle taps and the innder diameter is the perfect size for the 40 column shaft.
Here is the 40 shaft removed. It is easier to install the bearing with the shaft removed.
Here is the shaft back in the column tube and ready for the first test fit
The cup on the steering column tube that bolts to the firewall completely conceals the lower column bearing and also assures that it can never fall out.
This is the upper portion of the 60 column that will be mated to the 40 column
the factory 40 flange that mounts to the rag joint is cut off leaving as much of the original shaft as possible. We got a flanged bearing from cruiser outfit that fits the steering column tube on the lower portion of the column. This bearing is awesome! If fits in the column with a few gentle taps and the innder diameter is the perfect size for the 40 column shaft.
Here is the 40 shaft removed. It is easier to install the bearing with the shaft removed.
Here is the shaft back in the column tube and ready for the first test fit
The cup on the steering column tube that bolts to the firewall completely conceals the lower column bearing and also assures that it can never fall out.
This is the upper portion of the 60 column that will be mated to the 40 column
