Builds Tucker and Roma's 75 FJ40 Restore (1 Viewer)

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Notice the 60 column is hollow and just happens to have an inner diameter that is just slightly larger than the outer diameter of the 40 shaft
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here is the gap we need to bridge
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And here is a test fit with all the parts in place. the 40 shaft slides into the 60 shaft about two inches
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With the hz in the proper position in the frame the fan hits the lower outlet of the radiator. I decided to make a bracket to remedy this. First i removed the two original radiator mounts
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I welded this new support up...its basically two pieces of 3/16 steel with gussets. The bracket is then bolted into the frame using the existing holes where the old rivets where. This drops the radiator about two inches and allows me to also move it over some to the passenger side.

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Here is the new fuel tank. Its an aluminum unit from manafre. Im not sure why they decided to put the fuel feed and return ports on the back of the tank when they are always going to run toward the front of the rig but aside from that its pretty slick. It also has a really nice skid plate i'll have to snap a photo of. The tank attaches to the tubular cross member with ubolts. we went to lowes and replaced the supplied raw steel u bolts with some nice stainless ones and used nylon locking nuts so there is no chance of them coming loose.
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It accepts a factory sender that we modified for the additional depth of the tank
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also picked up a new ignition switch. I figure better get parts like this while you still can.
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new heater valve. The fj40 and the bj/hj4x version of the heater valves are both available new I decided that with the hz the gas version works just fine
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We ordered some fittings to convert the toyota 16x1.5 threads on the steering box and steering pump to a common jic for the custom power steering hose. This way a replacement power steering hose can be made at any hydraulic hose shop.

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Here is the custom high pressure hose it turned out to be really short but looks pretty clean i think.
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after moving the radiator over and down slightly the lower power steering hose connection is pretty much a straight piece of hose.
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The upper radiator hose connection is a little trickier. It uses a factory fj40 upper hose coupled with a section of 90 degree hose. This also should be relatively easy to replace out on the road.
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new factory fj40 2f coolant sender fits the hz upper coolant outlet
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New toyota mirror/arm. The old one was in pretty good shape but the plastic mirror head was getting a bit brittle after 40 plus years
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New mirrors and arms these technically arent period correct for a 75 but Tucker and i both think these look better than the originals
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We cut up the hzj105 fuel filter bracket and modified it a bit to fit the fj40 firewall. This is after welding it up and powder coating.
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Rear heater is hooked up. These parts are reused from the last build.
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This cover was missing on his first 40 so it was nice to get one from the green truck.
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stainless hardware on the defrost vents and and dash pad
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Since the interior fuel tank is no longer there we did quiet a bit of work on the seat frame to increase the leg room for the driver and passenger
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I welded captive nuts for all the relocated seat mounts. on this one i built up a little boss for the seat frame.
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cityracer shift plate for the 5spd and manual split case for the glove box. We were a little disappointed the writing is a sticker and not actually etched like the metric tlc plate which is what i have in my 40 but, the metric tlc part doesnt seem to be readily available at the moment.
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passenger seat back in. It's moved back about three inches and the right outside leg is moved under the seat since it no longer has to clear the tank
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Thanks to Georg for getting me the lead on this 70 series throttle cable for the hz engine thats available from spector

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I modified the factory pedal by cutting the rod that protrudes through the dash and welding a plate on it to accept the end for the 70 series cable. The tub already has the captive nuts for this type of cable and only one hole needed to be drilled to fish the cable through the fire wall.

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Hard to get pictures of it but i made fuel feed and return lines from the tank up to the engine compartment out of 3/8 brake tubing. This is the feed that runs to the fuel filter. The return runs along the frame up to the pump so only about a 6'' piece of hose is used.
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fuel filter is finished up and fuel lines are plumbed and bled. sorry for the crappy picture
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made new battery cables out of 2/0 welding cable, heat shrink and military terminals.
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Bib getting ready for assembly
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Had the pedal plated along with a bunch of hardware
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parking brake lever and cable finished up. I got the rear shoes adjusted and the brake and clutch bled. pedal feels great with the 80 series master. I used the factory 40 parking brake cable grommet to run the new cable through the floor. We actually need one more cable and grommet to cover the original hole in the driver foot well
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another crappy pic of the battery cables finished
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Got two more front hub caps to mount on the rear for the full floater.
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Tail end is more or less finished up for the soft top configuration which is what Tucker will run while we work on the hard top over the winter
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Since this 40 will have a/c i had to keep the front of the radiator clear for the condensor. I installed this power steering cooler on the driver fender.
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Fortunately was able to keep the factory battery tray in the original location but had to modify the support rod by shortening it and changing the angle of the washer for the rubber isolater. I cut the rod, rethreaded it, and welded on a new washer
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Made this simple bracket for the vacuum reservoir tank for the driver fender.
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