Builds Shipwreck

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Aug 24, 2014
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Woodinville Washington
Originally, I bought (traded for a bicycle, actually) with the idea of a cheap wheeler... it still may be relatively cheap, but since the end product will be nothing like left the factory; I think here is a better place to blog its build.
Basics, 1971 FJ40 basket case


the original thought was use the toyota axles and transfer case along with a 400 (or 500 cadillac) with a 4 speed manual transmission adapted to the toyota t-case.... there was a problem or two associated with this
notice anything odd about the transmission/transfer case/rear driveshaft?


how about the rear differential? look different?


in addition to gutting the transfer case, putting a mini rear differential in it, a PO had also taken all the guts out of the front differential as well... effectively this was a FJ40 postal version (2 wd). They did put a locker in the rear, but, if my calculations are correct, the rear gear ratio is 2.23... which was a new one on me, I didn't think you could get a locker with that low (numerically gear)...

but where one sees obstacle, I see ultimate (for me) FJ40. The plan has evolved, and even now as I don't have all the parts - not set in stone... but here it goes
Stock body, I MIGHT lengthen the wheelbase by 6 or so inches through an addition to the body.... unlikely, though... I have a Hummer H3 that does a great job of hauling people, so likely it will stay as short as I can and still get the longest driveshaft that I can into it.

3 link/panhard bar front suspension with a Scout 2 power steering box. And a stock Toyota front differential. I've owned 7 FJ40s prior to this, and I know the weaknesses of the design, but I think that, for this build, the stock (with gears, hardened birfield, and a locker) will be just fine. The front will have coil-overs

4 link rear with a 9" for that's trussed in two directions. Gearing is tentatively 4.56, but could change up or down depending on mood and deal. The rear will be traditional shock and coil spring.

350 chevy motor - I have several of these and am picking up another one tomorrow; but if I come across a 6.0 LS motor, that's what will land in it. The 350 flavor will be a Vortec motor with cam and carb. I'm not overspending on the 350 but I'm also not going to build crap - a 350, even if it gets changed to a 6.0 is valuable to me as most of what I own is GM.

4L60e, this may start as a turbo 350 since I have several of them and updating from t350 to 4l60e is pretty straightfoward.

Atlas 2 transfer case with 4:1 gearing. with that said, I may not spend the 2-3k now and will punt with a NP205 or NP 203.... if there was a slip-yoke eliminator available for the NP 208, I'd use that....

With all that said, I have an AX15 and transfer case from a Chevy Colorado.... though, it's so weak sauce that I think it'd be an utter waste of time to put it in.... though it would get it moving with parts I already have.

oh, and pulling with the warn winch.... makes it smoke, a lot



So that gets me to tonight... I started filling holes in the floor






this isn't going to go as fast as I'd like because simultaneous to this build, I'm putting a 300 tdi in a 2000 Land Rover discovery 2
 
Joined
Aug 24, 2014
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Woodinville Washington
And I'm struggling with a why not question. As I'm changing the motor mounts, adding a transmission mount, boxing the holes in the frame, and all new suspension mounts... why not simply start with 2x4 box steel? I could literally roll this outside until I'm ready to put the body on the frame (as I'm changing the axles as well... then sell the rust-free frame to someone trying to save a '40?
 
Joined
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I suppose, as no one here knows me, put highlights my qualifications up here
http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum/bangshift/project-cars-update/32299-sbg-s-special-buick-sledanette

http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum/bangshift/project-cars-update/29121-cts-spider

and no, they're not done... the fiat I should probably get on because I finally got the wiring for the motor; but the Buick needs to go south to a friend to drop its top and I'm still waiting on the machine shop for my motor... but the point is, I've some experience in suspensions/frame building.
 
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I think I just made a deal on an NV4500... my heart wins. My brain says "automatic", but my heart says "manual"

oh, and I'm going straight to a Atlas 2... and if the pennies I expect to roll in, do, I'm going to a 6.0 LS motor.

The entire goal behind this is stone-cold reliable, able to handle most trails, but more importantly, able to drive anywhere without killing me.
 

LC_Hamma

The Anti-Leafer
 
 
 
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2,678
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Dallas, Georgia
Other than the axle choices, diggin' the drivetrain a lot. Why not do a matching 9" front w/ D60 outers? That way you can go 35 spline inner/ outer.
 
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Joined
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well, my distraction was compete on Sunday, but back to the grindstone







for those who don't know - welding tip - when you're trying to fill holes or weld super-thin, rusty metal - use everdur welding rod as filler with your mig.

and more little holes in the floor, but those were solved


just one more hole



had I made these floorboards, I would have done them completely different - but I had them and wasn't in the mood to remake them; so it is what it is - you'll see my press brake in the background of that last picture.... I got that a year ago in Canada - hadn't been used since the 80s and was destine for scrap. I actually paid less than scrap price for it and hauled it home... didn't have to pay duty on it because it was being repatriated (it's a Chicago press brake, 72" that was made in the 30s).

next up, start the front hoop of the cage. I plan on using the cage to remove the body
 
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tonight's work - solid, not show

looks solid, eh?

not so much


and another little hole


repairs






no more flintstone floors


of course, next up is the roll cage so I'll be punching holes in those now solid floors...
 
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Grande Prairie AB
Are you planning on cutting out more floor to accommodate the (or both) transfer case(s)? I’m planing a LS/4l60e swap while keeping my Toy Tcase this winter/spring once the current phase of my project is completed and I acquire all of the adaptors and accessories I need, I do have a running ’01 donor truck already. I’m looking forward to see how you deal with the longer power train you are planning.
 
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well, I pushed the Land Rover outside... apparently the jerk who sent me the motor took the transmission apart at the adapter .... for no apparent reason .... at this point, I don't trust it - and minimum I have to pull the transmission and reseal the case... at worst, I'll be inside a transmission I don't know... needless to say, I'm about to dispute his payment for all of it. The complete motor has already cost me nearly a grand in extras (not including the extra shipping)...

anyway, on to more pedestrian things (and who knows, maybe the 300 tdi will land here and I'll scrap the land rover... okay, maybe I'm just mad and it'll blow over...

after some finagling I pulled the scrap... errr... 2F motor and 3 speed transmission. I hate scrapping it, since it allegedly ran - but given that neither of them realized it was a 2 wd FJ40; I don't trust them. Plus, the only place I have to store it is outside; so now or later, it's just as much iron only rustier later. I think I'll do the craigslist ad "this week only" and if no nibbles. I need to make a scrap run anyway with the axles and stuff from the last build.

 
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I picked up another motor today... $100.


The guy said it knocked, which is fine, I already have a rotating assembly in the other block.
It wasn't the bottom end

numbers 1st

a 350, vortec, truck


plugs look okay, not good, simply okay... hmmm


this is good, roller cam - after all, while I do want performance, I want stone-cold reliability.


this is what a motor that's been taken care of looks like


whoa whoa whoa... I've seen valves like that before


I think I've found the knock


When I talked to the guy who pulled the motor he said "it didn't knock all the time"... unless you put grease in the oil pan (and I've seen that), a blown bearing knocks all the time - it simply gets louder with rpm


not necessarily good news (spoiler alert, it is good news since there's no rust on the walls)

this looks good


I pulled the main caps later (no pictures) but they're in great shape - so good, that were I to cheap out, I'd simply retorque the caps, put a high-volume oil pump on and call it a day (no copper showing at all).... again, regular oil changes.

However, all is not lollipops - a couple of the lifters seem to be collapsed (maybe more than a couple) - which might have been the cause of the knocking. I bought this motor for the block (though I was surprised at non-4-bolt-mains - frankly that doesn't matter for what I'm doing, so surprise is about all I've got about that), and for all those neat little bits that cost so much to buy (bolts, covers, serpentine set up, oil cooler... etc).... I could have the heads done, and that'd be about $200 after the replace a bunch of valves, plus $150 to cut the seats for positive lock seals and higher lift... but I think I'm going to buy cheap, aluminum heads for the Corvette - and put the Corvette's heads on the Land Cruiser... we'll see, but that's my tentative plan for now.
 
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so here's what I did... I bought aluminum heads, for the Corvette. 2.05/1.60 valve, aluminum heads would actually hurt the performance of the motor in this rig; but the Vortec heads, the ones that are nearly new, have screw in studs already and are machined for a greater-than .500 cam are perfect for this motor. Best of all, I can probably get all or most of my money "back" by selling these two sets of Vortec heads I currently own (I honestly believe anything I build from here on out will be LS, BBC, or BBB).

have I mentioned that the transmission I'm using with the '40 is dual bolt pattern? no? still not going to put the Buick in, but it does give me options.
 
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out of an abundance of curiosity and the desire to really irritate the folks who seem to think a plan is something to follow - I took this picture


I think that shaft is give or take the same - 27 spline, it mic's the same - so an adapter and the ax-15 would bolt up to the np 205... but it's longer


anyway, with that Stiney/Beagle distraction put off to the side... I needed my engine stand back so I assembled the other motor and turbo 350 to start some motor mounts
Of course, like all things SBG, I had other crap... err.. stuff to do first like remove the last of the stock steering components... this FJ40 was so special, it had 2 steering stabilizers... neither of them attached on both ends.


I can't wait to try the cover to see if I can get the transmission this far above the frame... if I can, then there will be a flat to the bottom of the frame skid plate (better break-over angles)


I'm also not sure it's going to be back this far... rear drive line angles are going to be an issue with the 2.5 mile travel rear suspension (okay, a slight exaggeration) so the motor could move forward... but I'm going to run a mechanical fan.... anyway


stay tuned for the next exciting installment of how the FJ40 rolls.
 
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