Builds Travis’s PNW LX570 (6 Viewers)

[grinchy]

SmartGauge Electronics - Increasing alternator charge voltages this kind of voodoo probably.

 

[tbisaacs]

Unscientific:
14v

Measured at terminals:

Terminal voltage prior diode was ~13.6

 

[grinchy]

What were you after? 14.1?

 

[tbisaacs]

What were you after? 14.1?

13.6 before, 13.82 after. The instructions say to expect between .3v - .8v increase.

Anecdotally I observed the voltage gauge in the truck to be 3-ticks below 14v before and right at 14v after.

 

[tbisaacs]

What were you after? 14.1?

I misunderstand your post sorry. I was expecting to measure 14v at the terminal but it’s possible my multimeter isn’t accurate.

I measured my battery with the car off and got 12.26v. Full should be around 12.8v. I’ll be driving all weekend so expect it to full when I get back. I will measure again to verify.

Tons of good info here:

Odyssey Batteries - How to Charge? Diode or DC DC Charger?

 

[tbisaacs]

Also found this enlightening. Learning as I go:

 

[grinchy]

Most popular multimeter on Amazon can’t be wrong! Looks like I have the parts on hand to build when necessary. Hoping to skip straight to liion though. Thanks for the link.

 

[TonyP]

Hmm, sweet 'legit' Amazon ratings huh? Generally the industry standard for multimeters is Fluke but they've gone downhill recent since they were bought out. That said, a $5 Harbor Fraught multimeter can read read a static voltage.

 

[tbisaacs]

Measured 12.66 volts at the terminal today after ~14-15 hours parked with fridge on and then ~2hr drive home out of the mountains.

 

[tbisaacs]

Picked up a Renogy Voyager waterproof PWM on prime day for $50!

I ran a foot of MC4 to hang out of my grill:

 

[tbisaacs]

This weekend, in another thread, I added Slee Offroad LX570 sliders.

 

[tbisaacs]

Been chasing down an issue with my charging system for 3 weeks now. My battery kept dipping down to 11.5 - 11.8v volts after parking for the night. Initially I thought I had introduced the problem - so I went back to "stock" configuration by removing my diode booster, ARB fridge wiring, and charge controller. The problem still persisted.

I took the battery back to Batteries+ for a full day of diagnostics and it came back with a clean bill of health.

Next I used my multimeter in series to test the current draw while the car was off. Only about 6-10 mAh. That's not it.

I took the truck to Autozone to get the alternator tested and they said it was bad. I took the truck to Lexus of Bellevue anticipating getting a new alternator put in-but they could not reproduce the issue. The chalked it up to a loose cable. They me home with a clean bill of health and charged a $150 diagnostic fee.

Fast forward 2 more weeks, battery is nearly dead again (although I'm impressed, it always lugged the truck over). After a 2 hour drive the battery only came up to 12.3v. That was the sign.

This time I made an appointment at a local shop - Greg's Japanese Auto and they confirmed that it failed 3 of 5 tests with a bad diode reading. The truck bounced between 7v on and 12v. The third-party extended warranty that I purchased with the truck is picking up $1000 of the $1400 bill. This covers a new, OEM denso unit ($900) plus the 2.5hrs of labor. I am covering the diagnostic fee, warranty deductible, getting a new serp-belt, and paying tax.

Overall, I'm pretty disappointed in Lexus of Bellevue. I took my family out to pretty remote spots thinking there wasn't an issue.

 

[ElRob]

Been chasing down an issue with my charging system for 3 weeks now. My battery kept dipping down to 11.5 - 11.8v volts after parking for the night. Initially I thought I had introduced the problem - so I went back to "stock" configuration by removing my diode booster, ARB fridge wiring, and charge controller. The problem still persisted.

I took the battery back to Batteries+ for a full day of diagnostics and it came back with a clean bill of health.

Next I used my multimeter in series to test the current draw while the car was off. Only about 6-10 mAh. That's not it.

I took the truck to Autozone to get the alternator tested and they said it was bad. I took the truck to Lexus of Bellevue anticipating getting a new alternator put in-but they could not reproduce the issue. The chalked it up to a loose cable. They me home with a clean bill of health and charged a $150 diagnostic fee.

Fast forward 2 more weeks, battery is nearly dead again (although I'm impressed, it always lugged the truck over). After a 2 hour drive the battery only came up to 12.3v. That was the sign.

This time I made an appointment at a local shop - Greg's Japanese Auto and they confirmed that it failed 3 of 5 tests with a bad diode reading. The truck bounced between 7v on and 12v. The third-party extended warranty that I purchased with the truck is picking up $1000 of the $1400 bill. This covers a new, OEM denso unit ($900) plus the 2.5hrs of labor. I am covering the diagnostic fee, warranty deductible, getting a new serp-belt, and paying tax.

Overall, I'm pretty disappointed in Lexus of Bellevue. I took my family out to pretty remote spots thinking there wasn't an issue.

Do you think this was related to the DP diode kit at all?

 

[tbisaacs]

I don’t think so. The diode only boosts voltage by ~ .5v. Well within spec of the stock alternator

 

[Mineral]

Great thread! Thanks for documenting your build.

 

[ElRob]

I don’t think so. The diode only boosts voltage by ~ .5v. Well within spec of the stock alternator

Thanks.

 

[tbisaacs]

Catching up on updates from the last few months.

No photos but I upgraded my 1st gen Cree-based Hikari low beams to the newest generation Philips-based units. The difference is absurd! Output is much higher and cutoff is razor sharp. I also added a set to my fog lights. It’s an insane amount of lumens.

I’ve been dragging my feet on replacing the two leaking shocks and finally got the parts in. I fumbled around and ended up breaking a sway bar bolt (which is totally not necessary to remove for the shock replacement, mind you). I ended up just doing an AHC fluid flush and putting it back together.

I had to take the truck to a welder to get the broken bolt fixed. Don’t be like me.

So shocks are still laying on my work bench. However fluid change immediately improved ride quality and speed of height change.

I also noticed that my radiator was leaking a week ago. Visible bubbles from the usual spot that they crack:

I had a new Denso radiator installed at my local Japanese specialist. Nothing stirs excitement like a radiator photo:

While in the shop I had the diffs serviced with OEM spec GL-5 synthetic oil and a transmission drain and fill done using Toyota WS.

Otherwise just lots of enjoyment. This truck is literally a do anything rig.

 

[grinchy]

That is one hot radiator.

 

[tbisaacs]

That is one hot radiator.

This guy gets it.

 

[Union]

Love the dog! So much room for those big guys back there.