Odyssey Batteries - How to Charge? Diode or DC DC Charger?

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matt12

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Feb 12, 2017
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The Odyssey batteries require alternator output of 14.0 to 14.7V to charge correctly (and comply with warranty conditions).

The LC200 has an output of approx 13.8V when cool dropped to 13.3V when warm.

I installed an Odyssey battery about 9 mths ago with the stock setup on my URJ202R and the battery now reads 12.2V which is just over 50% charged. Needs to be 12.84V for 100% charge.

What are you using?
(a) a diode booster to bump up the voltage to about 14.4V;
(b) using the Odyssey battery as an auxiliary with a DC to DC charger; or
(c) same as my current stock setup with 50% charge.
 
Are you using the Odyssey as your main? Or as a second battery?

I have the Odyssey as a second and it usually reads higher than that when charged... Using a setup from IBS along with a relay module shown on the right side of this page: Slee - Battery Related Products
 
Odyssey PC1700 is the main battery and only battery.

Just trying to work out (a) how to fix the charging of the PC1700 and (b) how to charge the new second battery which will be installed soon.
 
Looks like there is a fourth option to add to my list above:
(d) the original Toyota alternator charging voltage is 14.0 to 14.7V (eg perhaps the 5.7?)
 
Remember the battery voltage is not a very good measure of SOC if there is an electrical draw on it. You can approximate SOC, but only relatively, when the battery is in use (even a little bit). Your 12.84 volts for full SOC would be only for a battery that has been charged, has rested for a while, and is not hooked up. Any primary battery in an LC is pretty "busy" all the time and will show a much lower voltage when tested in the vehicle. The isolator in a 2 battery system may allow proper testing of the 2nd battery using voltage. Long way of saying your Odyssey may be fine, but good idea to feed it the volts it wants to see while charging. It looks like you're going to explore the condition of your alternator?
 
I just tested after resting the car for 8 hours, then turning on the ignition and reading the ultraguage (but did not start).

Sandroad said:
It looks like you're going to explore the condition of your alternator?
Click to expand...

No. Maybe it is an Australian thing, but all the LC200s both the twin-turbo diesel and petrol put out 13.8V to 13.3V ... although things may have changed in the latest year or two.

On the FJ forrum, some guys from the US were buying diodes. Maybe USA FJs are also 13.8 to 13.3V but the LC200s in the US are 14V+?
 
That would be great if someone can report back on their charging voltages for hot & cold.

It would give some peace of mind for me to use the voltage boosting diode if the US LC200s or LX570s are charging at higher voltages.

Apparently voltages are decreased to improve fuel efficiency ratings.
 
I just checked the voltage on my '17 with an accurate meter and it started at 13.88VDC (right after starting the engine) and rose to 14VDC when charging the battery. Hot and cold are not particularly relevant; what matters to the battery is the voltage when charging.

On a side note, the voltage is not directly related to fuel efficiency. If the Australian version is lower voltage, it's for reasons other than fuel usage.

Be sure you use an accurate digital meter; you're only dealing with 0.12 volts from 13.88 to 14.
 
Sandroad, do you have a dual battery system in your 200? I have a late model 2014 200 and have never measured 14 volts output from the alternator with a meter. I get 13.83 to 13.92 as the high charge mark. After is been running a while, it settles into 13.5....like it's maintaining the current charge. My second battery has not ever charged above 12.79. My main battery usually sits at 12.6 at rest. I have Odyssey batteries and I am a little concerned. Can anyone else slap a meter on their 200 and post up their results?
 
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 7:00 pm Post subject:
Here is the charging update:

Alternator with diode based on x3 drives of 30 minutes per day for a few weeks (ie x3 starts per day):
Starter battery - Odyssey PC1700 - 12.62V
Aux battery - Northstar AGM35 - 12.73V

12V DC charger left on for about 8 hrs on each battery with LED indicated '100% charged':
Starter battery - Odyssey PC1700 - 12.74V
Aux battery - Northstar AGM35 - 12.77V

Measured at same temperatures with same resting period.

The aux battery is only being using for occasional starting when the batteries are not isolated (ie usually when the car is started but is still warm after driving), or during driving the batteries will also be connected etc. So only cold starts are with the starter battery.

There is a minor improvement with the 12V DC charger, however it was charging for about 8 hrs compared to the short charge periods for the alternator whilst driving. Final test will be whenever I go for a long drive of about 8 hrs.
 
Sandroad said:
I just checked the voltage on my '17 ... Hot and cold are not particularly relevant; what matters to the battery is the voltage when charging.

On a side note, the voltage is not directly related to fuel efficiency. If the Australian version is lower voltage, it's for reasons other than fuel usage..
Click to expand...

I think the latest models eg '16 and/or 17, may have changes with alternator output.

Hot & cold is very important to (a) temperature controlled alternator out, (b) taking battery voltage reading, (c) 100% SOC value.

Yes, it is fuel efficiency that the outputs are lower. Commonly known. Research more if you are in doubt.
 
If I wanted to buy a diode for my 2014 here in the USA, which diode should I purchase? The one for the UZJ200R or the Sahara?

Answered my own question......the diode for the 2014 Sahara was right for me. 5 amp mini fuse, version 2 of the mini by the way

Thanks,

Bart
 
Last edited:
matt12 said:
Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 7:00 pm Post subject:
Here is the charging update:

Alternator with diode based on x3 drives of 30 minutes per day for a few weeks (ie x3 starts per day):
Starter battery - Odyssey PC1700 - 12.62V
Aux battery - Northstar AGM35 - 12.73V

12V DC charger left on for about 8 hrs on each battery with LED indicated '100% charged':
Starter battery - Odyssey PC1700 - 12.74V
Aux battery - Northstar AGM35 - 12.77V

Measured at same temperatures with same resting period.

The aux battery is only being using for occasional starting when the batteries are not isolated (ie usually when the car is started but is still warm after driving), or during driving the batteries will also be connected etc. So only cold starts are with the starter battery.

There is a minor improvement with the 12V DC charger, however it was charging for about 8 hrs compared to the short charge periods for the alternator whilst driving. Final test will be whenever I go for a long drive of about 8 hrs.
Click to expand...


What's your charging voltage now with the diode in place?
 
With diode:
14.6v cold and 14.0v hot.

Without diode:
13.9v child and 13.3v hot.
 
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