Topnault complete 1978 tub-first impression (4 Viewers)

[sogncab]

Karl, painting and body work on 3 trucks? 90K?

Uno

 

[peesalot]

To me it has nothing to do with money, if I buy a fj40 tub I expect a fj40 tub , not as close as they could get. Now if you tell me, sorry none of the offerings are turn key and the buyer is aware that what they are purchasing may have flaws, incorrect dimensions, work needed thats fine but I do not see that disclosure in any of the various producers data. They hold the product out as a fj40 leading one to believe it is, when it is actually not.
I wonder if I were to represent a mortgage loan that way, would people fix their loan if it came with different terms & amounts ? Just saying when you offer something you should be clear & disclose known differences so a buyer is aware, nobody does tho as the product wouldnt sell.
I do recall something in AuquLu's site that did say there would/could be fitment issues

 

[Jdc1]

I think a lot of perspective is missing here.

I was talking to a renowned Land Cruiser restorer about my FJ40 project to get an idea of price (WAY more than I could afford). I asked if they patched tubs and they told me it's pretty rare that they will patch a tub, as to get the paint work and rust prevention right, it's really less labor to just replace the tub. He told me that the CCOT tubs are about the best they have seen and they still have to do 1000 hours of body work to make them right.
CCOT tub is about $15k after shipping and suggested that the Aqualu tub, for my needs would be a better idea anyhow.

It seems to me that If these are on par with the CCOT Tub and it's a few fitment things, I could see that at $8k for a tub in primer that still needs some work, it's still a bargain.

Mind PMing me details on the 1k hours?

 

[cruisermatt]

I would gladly pay double what they ask for a body if it fit correctly and was made exactly like OEM, and I am fully capable of restoring a body myself

 

[zerotreedelta]

My CCOT tub was wonky, but I'd estimate it was 40-80 hrs to work it, give or take. Most of my issues were in the front floor pans/rockers...other areas further back would be harder to address.

The "backwards" rear sill on the topnault would be a good example of a similar time spend...that one still baffles me a bit.

 

[Jdc1]

I would gladly pay double what they ask for a body if it fit correctly and was made exactly like OEM, and I am fully capable of restoring a body myself

We’d be glad to help anyone out with their bodies, feel free to reach out.

 

[Pierps]

My '76 had deeply pitted floors, a botched PO rear sill replacement, a rusted gas tank recess, cut quarters/wheel openings, and a rusted out wheel well. But it was otherwise structurally sound and the OEM panels (doors, hard top, etc) fit fine.

As a first time DIYer, working on the rig 1-2 full days a week with occasional breaks for vacation and a busy work schedule, I spent probably 2 years on rust repair. Just the cutting, welding, grinding, fitment. Body work was on top of that. I didn't keep track of how much I spent because that would've made me sad. But I probably spent somewhere around $3k on panels and consumables? When I finished my paint work, I thought to myself, I should've just bought a replacement tub and saved myself tons of time.

But the more I read these threads on aftermarket tubs, the more I realized it probably wouldn't have saved me time. Now I think the following:

1. Ideally, spend the money upfront on a rig with very little rust. The sticker shock is real, but the part you don't realize is that the person selling you that rig is probably losing money. I'd lose around $20k if I sold my rig today. The buyer would probably think they overpaid (aka they'd be oblivious).
2. If you don't want to spend that money, then at least get a rig that has good fitting panels, and no serious rust holes. Just pitting, and holes in non-structural spots. This is how I would describe my rig. I knew for sure that the hard top and doors fit totally fine. The frame and existing panels act as a jig for accurate panel replacement. Expect to spend hundreds of ours and a few grand to fix it.
3. If you have a pretty rotted truck where a tub replacement is the best choice, you're probably better off selling your rig and doing #1 or #2 above. If the rig has sentimental value and you don't want to sell it, then just be ready to pony up. Don't expect an $8k tub to fit. Prepare for hundreds of hours of work, and prepare to put a lot more money into the truck than it'll be worth.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I hear you, but there is also plenty of offshore made things that are just fine or better.

Chinese or not you would think, being a body parts manufacturer, and knowing the price point they are going to sell for, they would REALLY make sure they fit before stamping out hundreds of panels.

In the camera world the a Chinese company called Light lens lab has made a copy of a Leica lens that is pretty much on the level of Leica quality in terms of optics and build. (witch is really really good) In all honesty they could do better in my opinion

 

[Pierps]

Yeah, nowadays, the "chinese quality" stereotype doesn't really hold up. You can get really high quality chinese-made stuff, and you can get totally impassable garbage. It generally comes down to how much you are willing to pay. We consumers want the best of both worlds. We expect low prices and perfect quality, despite the preponderance of evidence that life just doesn't work that way.

EDIT: there are always exceptions to this, and to a prior poster's point, false advertising is never okay.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I view it as it's still free country (at least for now) an no one is making us by much anything. I'm glad that folks who have bought the stuff have posted their experience. I'm old and have more time than money; plus I like learning new things. Jack (the guy I bought Elsie from) was fond of saying "you don't learn much buying stuff from the store; I say about the only thing you can't do for yourself is CPR.

 

[Pitter Patter]

My '76 had deeply pitted floors, a botched PO rear sill replacement, a rusted gas tank recess, cut quarters/wheel openings, and a rusted out wheel well. But it was otherwise structurally sound and the OEM panels (doors, hard top, etc) fit fine.

As a first time DIYer, working on the rig 1-2 full days a week with occasional breaks for vacation and a busy work schedule, I spent probably 2 years on rust repair. Just the cutting, welding, grinding, fitment. Body work was on top of that. I didn't keep track of how much I spent because that would've made me sad. But I probably spent somewhere around $3k on panels and consumables? When I finished my paint work, I thought to myself, I should've just bought a replacement tub and saved myself tons of time.

But the more I read these threads on aftermarket tubs, the more I realized it probably wouldn't have saved me time. Now I think the following:

1. Ideally, spend the money upfront on a rig with very little rust. The sticker shock is real, but the part you don't realize is that the person selling you that rig is probably losing money. I'd lose around $20k if I sold my rig today. The buyer would probably think they overpaid (aka they'd be oblivious).
2. If you don't want to spend that money, then at least get a rig that has good fitting panels, and no serious rust holes. Just pitting, and holes in non-structural spots. This is how I would describe my rig. I knew for sure that the hard top and doors fit totally fine. The frame and existing panels act as a jig for accurate panel replacement. Expect to spend hundreds of ours and a few grand to fix it.
3. If you have a pretty rotted truck where a tub replacement is the best choice, you're probably better off selling your rig and doing #1 or #2 above. If the rig has sentimental value and you don't want to sell it, then just be ready to pony up. Don't expect an $8k tub to fit. Prepare for hundreds of hours of work, and prepare to put a lot more money into the truck than it'll be worth.

Preach!

My '76 had deeply pitted floors, a botched PO rear sill replacement, a rusted gas tank recess, cut quarters/wheel openings, and a rusted out wheel well. But it was otherwise structurally sound and the OEM panels (doors, hard top, etc) fit fine.

As a first time DIYer, working on the rig 1-2 full days a week with occasional breaks for vacation and a busy work schedule, I spent probably 2 years on rust repair. Just the cutting, welding, grinding, fitment. Body work was on top of that. I didn't keep track of how much I spent because that would've made me sad. But I probably spent somewhere around $3k on panels and consumables? When I finished my paint work, I thought to myself, I should've just bought a replacement tub and saved myself tons of time.

But the more I read these threads on aftermarket tubs, the more I realized it probably wouldn't have saved me time. Now I think the following:

1. Ideally, spend the money upfront on a rig with very little rust. The sticker shock is real, but the part you don't realize is that the person selling you that rig is probably losing money. I'd lose around $20k if I sold my rig today. The buyer would probably think they overpaid (aka they'd be oblivious).
2. If you don't want to spend that money, then at least get a rig that has good fitting panels, and no serious rust holes. Just pitting, and holes in non-structural spots. This is how I would describe my rig. I knew for sure that the hard top and doors fit totally fine. The frame and existing panels act as a jig for accurate panel replacement. Expect to spend hundreds of ours and a few grand to fix it.
3. If you have a pretty rotted truck where a tub replacement is the best choice, you're probably better off selling your rig and doing #1 or #2 above. If the rig has sentimental value and you don't want to sell it, then just be ready to pony up. Don't expect an $8k tub to fit. Prepare for hundreds of hours of work, and prepare to put a lot more money into the truck than it'll be worth.

Preach Brother Mudder! And yeah. Agreed

 

[numby]

I don't think there's any way of making a standardized tub that will fit a 40-60 year old frame and be perfect every time - or even close. On top of the decades of wear and tear, original LC frames just aren't that exact compared to modern vehicles. A lot of the restorers (CCOT included) do their panel replacement while everything not rusted away is still bolted in place. Plus they have the hard top sitting close at hand. That's why there are such big frame and body holes in 'Cruiser stuff. You can tweak and twist and kind of align things - and you'll need to. How many here have bought new factory fenders and bolted them up perfectly to the frame, cowl, apron, bib, and side steps without wallowing out a few holes? Not me.

Land Rover enthusiasts can get new frames and just about every panel they need, yet they still have a ton of grief because of all the different manufacturers their parts come from. If we had a single US or North American manufacturer making reproduction DOT frames and (aluminum) bodies that left the shop perfectly fitted I'd be tempted to sell off and start again 'cause my s*** ain't straight either.

Best of luck to the OP. You'll get it done and it'll be great 40.

 

[kunzma]

Received my heater panel from TPAutoParts. Pretty simple part. Dimensions were off across the board. Thankfully I'm not out much money and I can manage the fixes.

 

[brian]

Received my heater panel from TPAutoParts. Pretty simple part. Dimensions were off across the board. Thankfully I'm not out much money and I can manage the fixes.

Whats the heater panel?

 

[kunzma]

Whats the heater panel?

The passenger side of the firewall below the glovebox has a panel with the openings for the heater fan. May have used the wrong terms. Panel with A/C Opennings, for FJ40, FJ45 Toyota Land Cruiser - https://tpautoparts.com/products/panel-with-a-c-opennings
Rolled the dice.

 

[island45]

I think I'll put off buying a Chinese tub until the factory that builds these Champion radiators (that sell on amazon for 200 bucks) starts offering a tub. The welds on the above tub look like some of the stuff I did an hour after I unboxed my first welder. On another platform I suggested that the welds on these radiators were probably done by a robot, but a guy with years of experience working with overseas auto parts chimed in and said that they were done manually and said he could almost guarantee they were welded by a 14-16 yr old girl working the night shift and going to school by day.

 

[bikersmurf]

I don't think there's any way of making a standardized tub that will fit a 40-60 year old frame and be perfect every time - or even close. On top of the decades of wear and tear, original LC frames just aren't that exact compared to modern vehicles. A lot of the restorers (CCOT included) do their panel replacement while everything not rusted away is still bolted in place. Plus they have the hard top sitting close at hand. That's why there are such big frame and body holes in 'Cruiser stuff. You can tweak and twist and kind of align things - and you'll need to. How many here have bought new factory fenders and bolted them up perfectly to the frame, cowl, apron, bib, and side steps without wallowing out a few holes? Not me.

Land Rover enthusiasts can get new frames and just about every panel they need, yet they still have a ton of grief because of all the different manufacturers their parts come from. If we had a single US or North American manufacturer making reproduction DOT frames and (aluminum) bodies that left the shop perfectly fitted I'd be tempted to sell off and start again 'cause my s*** ain't straight either.

Best of luck to the OP. You'll get it done and it'll be great 40.

My own experience with my rig… in ‘92 I hand built a tub for my ‘74 frame. A year or two later I replaced my ‘74 frame with a ‘77 frame that was in excellent condition. Every single bolt lined up perfectly. So I don’t buy the no 2 frames are quite the same. That’s not been my experience.

I’ve also had 4-5 different years of hardtop sides bolted onto my tub, and they all fit. Could there have been a mm off here or there… certainly. But nothing like the OP is seeing.

 

[Greek Cruiserhead]

We need some more updates and info, indeed...

PS. Toying with the idea of their FJ45 Pup bed/tray...

 

[projectTuRD]

My own experience with my rig… in ‘92 I hand built a tub for my ‘74 frame. A year or two later I replaced my ‘74 frame with a ‘77 frame that was in excellent condition. Every single bolt lined up perfectly. So I don’t buy the no 2 frames are quite the same. That’s not been my experience.

I’ve also had 4-5 different years of hardtop sides bolted onto my tub, and they all fit. Could there have been a mm off here or there… certainly. But nothing like the OP is seeing.

About 30 years ago I bought a 72 40 that had been tipped on its side at one point. Got it running, drove it around. A bit later I found another 72 body/tub combo. I swapped the tubs and various front end parts around without an issue. I was a 20 yo dumbass who had no idea what is was doing. (I still don’t, lol.)
The amount of cobbled together SA rigs should say something too, not like they’re spending 1000 hours adjusting panels on their ‘restorations’.

 

[Flunob]

I wonder if this is related to the Topnault assembly? I don't recall names...but ironically I noticed it in the "related videos" pane of the vintage/OEM video. Seems somewhat likely as it has that same rear seam on the quarters, same primer, similar crating, etc.

Same stuff - this is the Juncheng factory that supplies Topnault. Just got some of their literature from a UK car show - www.carbody.com