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I believe that is the manufacturer. Topnault is the us distributor.
Topnault complete 1978 tub-first impression
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I believe that is the manufacturer. Topnault is the us distributor.
That is the Jiangsu Juncheng Vehicle Industry Co., Ltd. warehouse where Topnault gets the parts to sell here in the US. As posted by Topnault: "In another word, Juncheng is Topnault's factory in China manufacturing FJ40/FJ45 parts."
1MOA
SILVER Star
yes that is the same company. Jungchen.
All this thread has done is now upset me that I could of just bought a Aqualu tub last spring and been well on my way to a new body on my 77 rather than waiting for what appears to be not much better than the TROA/CCOT junk from south america.
All this thread has done is now upset me that I could of just bought a Aqualu tub last spring and been well on my way to a new body on my 77 rather than waiting for what appears to be not much better than the TROA/CCOT junk from south america.
So many thoughts. Most importantly, thanks for purchasing this product and sharing with all of us. The skills, commitment and passion of Land Cruiser owners is extraordinary and I appreciate everyone working so hard and sharing so we can do our best work keeping these on the road.
I’ve been doing body work on my tub and other panels (off and on) for a little over a year and there’s still more to do. I considered starting with a 3/4 tub but I also needed to do the doors, hardtop sides, rain gutter, etc. so I went with a $6k ish~ ‘investment’ in Real Steel and CCOT panels/parts. There’s at least another $2kin shop supplied by the time I’m done so no matter what; a crusty cruiser is a big expense to restore. I’m not surprised this tub cost $8k
The panels I received don’t fit with each other or the remaining parts of the tub so I’ve done a lot of modification. It seems we should all expect this regardless of a tub purchase or a panel purchase.
What I’ve learned from reading all the tub reviews and actually doing this myself is in most situations I recommend buying panels and piecing it together. @middlecalf point is spot on regarding body to frame mounts. My frame had a diamond bend of 1.25” and nothing on the tub is straight. After fixing the frame, I’ve been adjusting the tub. It’s like doing carpentry on an old house, everything has moved.
I agree that the best option a vendor could offer would be to figure out what’s universal across years and ship partial assembly’s. Then the customer would install body mounts, hangers, heat shield mounts, connecting panels, etc. to their unique fitment. This also allows the customer to address some of the areas that suffer from drainage and other issues.
@Papa Rich stay focused and don’t get discouraged. You will get this put back together and you’ll have a truly rust free FJ40 you can drive till you die.
I’ve been doing body work on my tub and other panels (off and on) for a little over a year and there’s still more to do. I considered starting with a 3/4 tub but I also needed to do the doors, hardtop sides, rain gutter, etc. so I went with a $6k ish~ ‘investment’ in Real Steel and CCOT panels/parts. There’s at least another $2kin shop supplied by the time I’m done so no matter what; a crusty cruiser is a big expense to restore. I’m not surprised this tub cost $8k
The panels I received don’t fit with each other or the remaining parts of the tub so I’ve done a lot of modification. It seems we should all expect this regardless of a tub purchase or a panel purchase.
What I’ve learned from reading all the tub reviews and actually doing this myself is in most situations I recommend buying panels and piecing it together. @middlecalf point is spot on regarding body to frame mounts. My frame had a diamond bend of 1.25” and nothing on the tub is straight. After fixing the frame, I’ve been adjusting the tub. It’s like doing carpentry on an old house, everything has moved.
I agree that the best option a vendor could offer would be to figure out what’s universal across years and ship partial assembly’s. Then the customer would install body mounts, hangers, heat shield mounts, connecting panels, etc. to their unique fitment. This also allows the customer to address some of the areas that suffer from drainage and other issues.
@Papa Rich stay focused and don’t get discouraged. You will get this put back together and you’ll have a truly rust free FJ40 you can drive till you die.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Their original offering was a vehicle Toyota never offered. It had the the insert dash that started 10/82 on LHD. 10/82 the transmission hump was modified for the H55F five speed. That included the inspection cover with a different footprint. Insert dash started 10/81 on RHD 40 series. It still has the transmission hump that started 1/79 and ended 10/82. Look like a 82 RHD from a non heater market modified to LHD. The 78 model year was 9/77-1/79. Those have a seat belt/brake light to the right of the instrument cluster. This one is earlier. The rear sill and A pillar is based on the 1/79+ 40 series.
Not sure where anyone could get all the variations of 40 series tubs used around the world to scan. US had a collapsible steering and twist knob for the glove box 8/80. 10/81 room light switches added to the A pillar. 10/82 hump redesigned and insert dash. That's just the US market which Toyota was already phasing out the FJ40. Overall dimensions may have been scanned. But believe some details are being winged as they go. But they are making an effort to correct things which you have to appreciate.
If the basic maun body dimensions are OK, I would start drilling out spot welds and adjusting pieces to the exact spot and weld them back in. Frustrating to do that, but most aftermarket body parts don't fit great initially without some work unfortunately.
Curtice
SILVER Star
These are the very same kind of problems I had with my SA tub. Body mounts way off, dimensions off, etc. I bought a new tub thinking it would save a lot of time over all the body panel patch welding and things like that on the stock tub. But I spent almost a year dealing with fitment issues and crap like that. Convinced me that fixing up the stock tub is the way to go if at all possible. Either way will be a lot of work, but at least you can ensure assembly is how you want it and you are starting with the original skeleton, so dimension are correct.
1MOA
SILVER Star
Anyone pulled the trigger on a 3/4 tub?
Seems like if you’re looking at a 3/4 tub aqualu is the way to go if you’re in the U.S. or Canada. Probably less body work to get everything to fit correctly. Unless you want the original stamped and ribbed look of the rear fenders and bed. Doesn’t sound like TopNault has ironed everything out enough to part with a decent chunk of change for more headaches.
1MOA
SILVER Star
I posted back a page or two about that. I waited on putting the aqualu order in thinking the topnault would be a good alternative but after seeing this one review and seeing the other reviews of different parts. ( ambi doors and side doors) I am just going to go aqualu.
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Coming from manufacturing, it baffles me that they missed the mark so badly here. These aren't complicated vehicle bodies, and they have the facility to make them correctly. an initial fitment check on multiple chassis examples would save them so much money in wasted shipping, returns and refunds. I have one of their doors here and the build quality looks good but I am not looking forward to installing on the vehicle.
I am considering their 45 cab for a personal project, I was thinking how badly can four mounting points be off, but if the cowl mounts are wrong then the whole thing is going to be wrong.
I am considering their 45 cab for a personal project, I was thinking how badly can four mounting points be off, but if the cowl mounts are wrong then the whole thing is going to be wrong.
Matt, is it possible the non us market 40 tubs had different locations ? maybe they modeled off a bandy ? I thought all 40's worldwide would have same mounts but maybe not. The fact they missed the gap/stand off on the cowl mount to me means they didnt even look at a 40 for reference, how hard is it to post pics & dimensions next to a build station.
brian
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I hear you, but there is also plenty of offshore made things that are just fine or better.
Chinese or not you would think, being a body parts manufacturer, and knowing the price point they are going to sell for, they would REALLY make sure they fit before stamping out hundreds of panels.
I feel like if this thing fit sweet, and really well, $8000 would be a MF-ing bargain.
What you you pay for a brand new Toyota tub? They're full of flaws in how they are made too.
What would you pay for a perfect body that you could just swap everything over? Metal properly prepared, quality paint, no problems that arent self inflicted?
I don't know what I'd pay for a Toyota body that's been laying around in a warehouse for 50 years, a fair chunk of change anyways. But it's still put together wrong with bare metal in joints. It was rusting out before it even got pit on a chassis.
If you said the second body option was $40k, I'd tell you to stay in your chair, don't f-ing move, I'll be there with cash asap. And don't talk to anyone else.
What you you pay for a brand new Toyota tub? They're full of flaws in how they are made too.
What would you pay for a perfect body that you could just swap everything over? Metal properly prepared, quality paint, no problems that arent self inflicted?
I don't know what I'd pay for a Toyota body that's been laying around in a warehouse for 50 years, a fair chunk of change anyways. But it's still put together wrong with bare metal in joints. It was rusting out before it even got pit on a chassis.
If you said the second body option was $40k, I'd tell you to stay in your chair, don't f-ing move, I'll be there with cash asap. And don't talk to anyone else.
Tigerstripe40
SILVER Star
I feel like if this thing fit sweet, and really well, $8000 would be a MF-ing bargain.
What you you pay for a brand new Toyota tub? They're full of flaws in how they are made too.
What would you pay for a perfect body that you could just swap everything over? Metal properly prepared, quality paint, no problems that arent self inflicted?
I don't know what I'd pay for a Toyota body that's been laying around in a warehouse for 50 years, a fair chunk of change anyways. But it's still put together wrong with bare metal in joints. It was rusting out before it even got pit on a chassis.
If you said the second body option was $40k, I'd tell you to stay in your chair, don't f-ing move, I'll be there with cash asap. And don't talk to anyone else.
I think a lot of perspective is missing here.
I was talking to a renowned Land Cruiser restorer about my FJ40 project to get an idea of price (WAY more than I could afford). I asked if they patched tubs and they told me it's pretty rare that they will patch a tub, as to get the paint work and rust prevention right, it's really less labor to just replace the tub. He told me that the CCOT tubs are about the best they have seen and they still have to do 1000 hours of body work to make them right.
CCOT tub is about $15k after shipping and suggested that the Aqualu tub, for my needs would be a better idea anyhow.
It seems to me that If these are on par with the CCOT Tub and it's a few fitment things, I could see that at $8k for a tub in primer that still needs some work, it's still a bargain.
Tigerstripe40
SILVER Star
I think the variable here is, how much time will be spent on body work is this topnault tub going to require vs the CCOT tub?
For my uses, as I am not looking for a museum quality restoration, if I have to do some fabrication and body work to make an $8k tub work instead of a $15k tub, if the amount of work is going to be equal, I'll go with the $8k tub, but I am also doing everything my self.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
Karl, painting and body work on 3 trucks? 90K?
