Builds The Warthog v4.4

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

This is turning into a “Mud All-Star” build. I like it.
 
15600-76005-71?

Judging by the size of it, it’s application is this guy.

1902583
 
@FJ60Cam whats your preferred break in oil and change schedule for rebuilds?

I use a bottle of the zinc additive with 15w40 diesel type oil. 20 mins @ 2000 rpms to break in the cam, then check/adjust the valves while still hot and then let it cool while you inspect for leaks and loose hose clamps.

Then I take it on a few short drives and get the timing dialed in and triple checking for surprises. Lastly, a few hours of varied driving to break it in. Easy at first, then gradually throw any & everything at it except towing or monotonous interstate driving. I’d hold off 500 or more miles for that.
 
Last edited:
I use a bottle of the zinc additive with 15w40 diesel type oil. 20 mins @ 2000 rpms to break in the cam, then check/adjust the valves while still hot and then let it cool while you inspect for leaks and loose hose clamps.

Then I take it on a few short drives and get the timing dialed in and triple checking for surprises. Lastly, a few hours of varied driving to break it in. Easy at first, then gradually throw any & everything at it except towing or monotonous interstate driving. I’d hold off 500 or more miles for that.

Thanks!
 
Great plan @FJ60Cam , but what’s @wngrog going to do? Have you seen his videos? He’ll probably try and race someone in another pig as soon as he’s got it running. Hope that replacement cam is robust.
 
He’s going to hop in, idle to the muddy field outside his shop, and keep the motor mashed for 20 minutes.
 
Great plan @FJ60Cam , but what’s @wngrog going to do? Have you seen his videos? He’ll probably try and race someone in another pig as soon as he’s got it running. Hope that replacement cam is robust.

Yeah I don’t remember what I did on my FJ60 but it was not all that......I’ll try to do better this time
 
Operation fetch the Cop motor went very smoothly today.

I grabbed my body guard @USMC22 for the ride up and we rolled early.

@jrob loaned me his sweet tube engine stand for the journey home in my M416 trailer.

1903286


#ETAF was not happy with the situation but he allowed us to leave without incident.

1903291


The motor stayed rock solid in the trailer. I absolutely love my M416

1903288


I got it home and slapped on the fan clutch and fan to get a measurement from the front of the head to the front of the fan

8” ........ @cruiseroutfit looks like we nailed this one

6C271C3E-6ED6-42EB-AC8C-9DCD974EDD82.jpeg


9B04CB72-E78A-4044-9F40-0D4D1FCF9E13.jpeg
 
pre-79 FJ55s don’t have Fan clutches. The radiator to head clearance is only 9” and the 60 series clutch and fan take 9.5”

@cruiseroutfit grabbed a few clutches and fans and went to work to find what it would take to cut down that distance to squeeze a fan clutch into the Pig engine bay.

I wanted it for better cooling and mostly for noise control.

Clutched fans are much quieter than fixed blade fans. I know there are other reasons but that was my main reason to do this.

Here is a link to the tech to how Kurt and I worked the combo out.

 
I started bolting things on the 2F today.

The manifold went on with a Remflex gasket. Truly the best. 25# torque is all the bolts need.

Then I started in on the Holley Sniper adapter.

With my AFI fuel injection I chased vacuum leaks at the adapter for a week until I ditched the paper gaskets and made my own with Remflex.

I use paper to trace it. A knife to cut it. A .35 caliber rifle casing to punch the holes.

4FA24A75-4322-4871-9E97-C656717E0D56.jpeg


Then I removed the OEM carb studs

4156877C-D4AE-457C-A18D-A6D5CE9A57EB.jpeg


These bolts are then used to bolt the adapter down into the manifold through the OEM spacer

4FE8C864-6EF2-495A-A01F-C58A06E7C208.jpeg


Here is the adapter you need for the Sniper. You will need to shave a bit off to let it sit flat on the Carb spacer

9C0DB3B1-BE1A-4AFF-A335-7D7A5EABB75F.jpeg


I added the Smog Pump eliminator from @FJ40Jim, brand new Power Steering pump from @Racer65, and the motor mount.

631EEBB5-D129-46B5-96A0-983D3EB34B9D.jpeg
 
After the crank was bolted down, I realized I never cleaned up the front plate. After scraping off the old gasket and funk, I hit it with the orbital sander to get it nice & clean...

View attachment 1900674

View attachment 1900673

New Toyota timing gear on the camshaft...

View attachment 1900676

Pretty cool that the timing mark on the crank gear is a TEQ symbol.

View attachment 1900675

Tech questions for you -
  • The timing plate gasket comes with a ring of sealer pre-installed on one side - leave the other side dry or apply some permatex?
  • The torx screws on the timing plate - what's your preferred torque for these? Each FSM I've read says "Install timing plate and tighten screws".
 
Tech questions for you -
  • The timing plate gasket comes with a ring of sealer pre-installed on one side - leave the other side dry or apply some permatex?
  • The torx screws on the timing plate - what's your preferred torque for these? Each FSM I've read says "Install timing plate and tighten screws".

The manual called for sealer on both sides. Probably doesn’t need it on the side with the built in gasket, but I brush on some aviation sealant on both sides, making sure not to get any in the oil squirter passage.

I just torque the torx screws to “tight” like the manual says :lol:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom