74FJ40newbie
SILVER Star
Just saw the finished product on Insta, and had to come see the build. Amazing work!
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Next up was to clean up the headbolts. The idea was to take the dirty rusty ones and clean them up to look the one on the right:
After a bunch of wire wheeling & scotchbright padding, they looked pretty good. I always swap the previously exposed headbolts with the ones that were under the valve cover.
These are the previously exposed bolts, cleaned up, rust converter on the heads (just for Nolen), oil on the threads for assembly...
These were the ones protected in oil all these years , and will be the new exposed bolts...
After a bunch of wire wheeling & scotchbright padding, they looked pretty good. I always swap the previously exposed headbolts with the ones that were under the valve cover.
These are the previously exposed bolts, cleaned up, rust converter on the heads (just for Nolen), oil on the threads for assembly...
These were the ones protected in oil all these years , and will be the new exposed bolts...
Nolen went nuts and bought all new pushrods & lifters. You can keep costs down by re-using the pushrods (replace any bent or damaged), and having Delta resurface the lifters.
Once the head was bolted down, the new lifters and pushrods went in...
Once the head was bolted down, the new lifters and pushrods went in...
Then the rocker assembly was bolted on...
I hit the tip of the exhaust rocker with a paint pen (whike they were clean & free of oil) to make valve adjusting a little easier.
I spun the engine over a few times, adjusting the valve clearance each time until it had squeezed out the extra lube and everything was in its happy place.
After the initial start & the cam is broken in, we’ll check/adjust again, then again at the break in oil change. Then he should be good for the normal schedule.
I hit the tip of the exhaust rocker with a paint pen (whike they were clean & free of oil) to make valve adjusting a little easier.
I spun the engine over a few times, adjusting the valve clearance each time until it had squeezed out the extra lube and everything was in its happy place.
After the initial start & the cam is broken in, we’ll check/adjust again, then again at the break in oil change. Then he should be good for the normal schedule.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Question, why re-use the head-bolts? I was always told and read that you should always replace headbolts whether TTY or not. Not trying to be a nay-sayer, just curious as that seems to be the mantra.
I replaced them on my build, but my engine also had 300K plus and blew a headgasket.
I replaced them on my build, but my engine also had 300K plus and blew a headgasket.
I have reused headbolts before. I think that specific idea comes from headbolts that are torque to yield. Which causes the bolt to stretch.
Land cruiser headbolts I think torque around 90ft/lbs. Where as a torque to yield fastener would be something like torque all head bolts to 50 ft/lbs, then angle torque of 90, then another round of 90.
Land cruiser headbolts I think torque around 90ft/lbs. Where as a torque to yield fastener would be something like torque all head bolts to 50 ft/lbs, then angle torque of 90, then another round of 90.
- Thread starter
- #147
This is why I hired a retired rocket scientist to assemble my motor.
I’ve operated 25 years in this world mixing birfield grease and using my Mark 50 that-feels-right torque wrench.
I’ve operated 25 years in this world mixing birfield grease and using my Mark 50 that-feels-right torque wrench.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
The early headbolts (as pictured) are hopelessly overbuilt and don't need replaced unless really damaged.
Carry on....
Carry on....
I'm sure I'm not the only one but seeing photos like these of a fresh engine is better than going to an art gallery.
FJBen
SILVER Star
Yeah, thats what I though as well. I went ahead and replaced although I probably didn't need to.
Good to know. Mines a 13BT which I don't think are TTY, but diesel is kind of a different beast all together than gasser engines, so I went with better safe then sorry. What's another $80 in head bolts right??
I was about to toss out the empty beno box, but noticed the pilot bearing at the bottom, so in it went...
The original oil pan was trashed, and I think this was the drain plug from it...
...but it was way too big to fit the pan I had in my stash. An diff drain plug fit though, and there was a gasket in the kit that seemed to fit, so it’s there for now...
The original oil pan was trashed, and I think this was the drain plug from it...
...but it was way too big to fit the pan I had in my stash. An diff drain plug fit though, and there was a gasket in the kit that seemed to fit, so it’s there for now...
Finished product, ready for pickup:
That’s the start up filter. A big Wix tractor filter JC recommended (but painted black for pictures)
piiiiiiiimmmmmmmmmmmmmmp.
- Thread starter
- #158
Ain’t burning my good filter and it’s been blessed by JC who was born on December 25th.
It’s also a big enough billboard to plaster on a sticker 
Almost forgot this beauty.
Refreshed alternator to “power” the ‘Hog...
FJ40 & FJ60 Alternator Restorations (Shameless plug. Holla if you need one.)
Refreshed alternator to “power” the ‘Hog...
FJ40 & FJ60 Alternator Restorations (Shameless plug. Holla if you need one.)
