I think I’m following you. Yes, since the cutter spins in a circular motion, it will have slight cut marks from the front & back arc of the circle.
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I think I’m following you. Yes, since the cutter spins in a circular motion, it will have slight cut marks from the front & back arc of the circle.
After the crank was bolted down, I realized I never cleaned up the front plate. After scraping off the old gasket and funk, I hit it with the orbital sander to get it nice & clean...
New Toyota timing gear on the camshaft...
Pretty cool that the timing mark on the crank gear is a TEQ symbol.
New Toyota timing gear on the camshaft...
Pretty cool that the timing mark on the crank gear is a TEQ symbol.
This was a good time to wire wheel the balancer and polish the rust off the seal surface. The Warthog has high hopes of getting AC, so we’re using an FJ60 unit w/the AC pulley...
We’re doing a non-oil cooler setup, so in addition to using a water pump without the oil cooler nipple, we’re re-using the oil filter/oil pressure sender mount from his old motor.
It was really nasty, so it was tossed in a can of carb dip and forgotten about for a week or two...
We’re doing a non-oil cooler setup, so in addition to using a water pump without the oil cooler nipple, we’re re-using the oil filter/oil pressure sender mount from his old motor.
It was really nasty, so it was tossed in a can of carb dip and forgotten about for a week or two...
Primered & painted...
Oil sender cleaned up...
Bedazzle on the mount...
Finished product...
Oil sender cleaned up...
Bedazzle on the mount...
Finished product...
Said it before but bears a repeat... Ya’ll do some nice work - great to watch it unfold...
*Almost makes me wish I lived in Mississippi to see the first hand
work!
*Almost makes me wish I lived in Mississippi to see the first hand
work!
Cleaning out the head bolt threads...
Last edited:
Last one for a bit...
73fj
Tho at sumbitch in ayer!
Excellent thread.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
So with timing marks aligned as indicated what is the status of the cylinders? Or maybe it doesn’t matter without the rest of the valve train in place?
TDC on #1, not sure which stroke though. They’re more for lining up the gears than anything else.
If they'd just strap the cam to a 2x4 then box it, that would save a lot of them.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
FSM says (IIRC) that #6 is on compression, which would mean #1 is on exhaust, but couldn’t tell from your pic above because can’t see anything valve-wise. Love these build pics and details, analog is so mch more cooler than digital, lol. I hope Nolan doesn’t break all your hard work.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
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You still here? If so you got enough room in your checked luggage for a stowaway? Hate it here !
55 build coming along nicely btw.
- Thread starter
- #136
I escaped last night only to be side-tracked all day with 20 Boy Scouts camping on my farm.
I’ve made 10 runs back and forth ferrying people around for all things not related to working on The Warthog.
Hope to get back on it tomorrow. Mostly I’m finished until I pick up the motor from Cam Monday after work
So, I bought a used '82 head from a 60 which appears to been decked, post-manufacturer. Using a Starrett combination square and a feeler guage, I can measure an average of .001" dip across, from plug side to manifold side. The tooling marks also suggest that the milling head was not 'trammed,' because there is no cross-hatching on the long edges of the head. If the corresponding 2F block was treated in a similar manner, that would leave a compounding dip of similar value, adding up to about .002." The spec for flatness is about .005," if I recall correctly. So, being about 2/5 of the way there, it leaves significantly less room for thermal warping, effects of mill tool or flycutter 'rake,' or, slop on axis of the mill. I've never worked in an automotive machine shop, but I spent several years working on Bridgeport mills, which included 'tramming,' or setting the spindle perpendicular to the x and y axis of movement; it was hard, partly because these machines were worn out.
Anyway, just because the block or the head was decked, I would not assume anything. And given the opportunity, I would try my hardest to machine, and measure flatness, knowing that this will leave the greatest amount of load shared with the head gasket in the particularly narrow region between the cylinders.
Cheers,
Paul aka 'Dizzy'
1911
chupacabra
I feel your pain; I let one of my son's old Boy Scout troop camp on our land also.
- Thread starter
- #139
I had about 1/2 gallon of Lizard Skin left over from the previous projects.
I wanted to get the tranny hump heavily coated on both sides. I’m gonna have to chop this up a bit for the new shifter locations but once this stuff cures I should be able to make some clean cuts
I had a bit more leftover so I did a 1/2 ass cleaning job between the frame rails where the majority of the heat comes from and does not get rocks and mud on it too bad and hammered it with a couple of coats to finish off the 2 gallon bucket. I did not prep this metal very good. I’ll be interested to see how well it stays.
Lastly I painted the radiator support and rod and added stainless hardware.
I wanted to get the tranny hump heavily coated on both sides. I’m gonna have to chop this up a bit for the new shifter locations but once this stuff cures I should be able to make some clean cuts
I had a bit more leftover so I did a 1/2 ass cleaning job between the frame rails where the majority of the heat comes from and does not get rocks and mud on it too bad and hammered it with a couple of coats to finish off the 2 gallon bucket. I did not prep this metal very good. I’ll be interested to see how well it stays.
Lastly I painted the radiator support and rod and added stainless hardware.
74FJ40newbie
SILVER Star
That's livin right there! Boys will never forget your hospitality!
