Builds The Warthog v4.4 (1 Viewer)

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You might want look into mechanical line locks. I have one on my race car. It is basically a ball valve, one that resist brake fluid and can handle high pressure. This way you do not need to worry about the battery draining and then the lock releases. For short trips in and out the truck on the trail you should be fine.

On the RAZR's, I think you will like them. I had a set of 40's but ended up selling them when I got a set of 40" Sticky treps. They had really good traction and cleaned out really well even at low speeds with no tire spin.
 
I use a simple electric setup from Summit. PN #sum-760002
You might want look into mechanical line locks.
I'll second what @matzell said.
Electric line locks are meant for intermittent use somewhere around 60 seconds. A little panel mount Swagelok ball valve will serve you well when the line lock fails.
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I'll second what @matzell said.
Electric line locks are meant for intermittent use somewhere around 60 seconds. A little panel mount Swagelok ball valve will serve you well when the line lock fails.
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I always liked those ones with the lever when I ran biggies. I never felt like running lines in the cab of my full body trucks for those. I agree they are great.

I have accidentally left my electric line lock on for days and it is always still on. They don’t use battery power to keep pressure so they don’t drag the battery down.

That said , it’s usually there for me to hop out with the car running for a few seconds. And hop back in or get a chock under there.
 
Agree on running the lines into the cab, a couple options I looked into when adding a hill holding/park brake to my pig.

Mirco makes a contentious duty electric solenoid but kind of spendy for what it is.


I also looked into a cable actuated aircraft unit like this one.

MATCO PARKING BRAKE VALVE |



At the end of the day I just ran the ball valve in the cab for cost and time constraints, the Warthog is turning out fantastic. Good luck with that new engine I hope it brings you many more smiles than the last one.
 
Oil Pressure Gauge
Got a couple of things wired up and mounted.
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Added a lighted switch for the line lock. If you need to use it as theft deterrent just unplug the ground wire on switch and the light goes out.

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I also put a real oil pressure gauge in. I’m going to make a T at the stock sending unit location so I can run both gauges.

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Great, now I have something else to add to the parts list! Just when I thought I was getting my act together.

I had a high reading on my stock gauge during the break in time on 4.4.1

I swapped sending units from one I had on the shelf and it came down some but not in range.

I hate a dead gauge. I’d rather it be high and working than just unplugged and dead.

Just make sure you get the copper line with the gauge. They all come with plastic line and it can melt if routed wrong.

I have a lot of money in this motor. This is a bit of a piece of mind for cheap

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I had a high reading on my stock gauge during the break in time on 4.4.1

I swapped sending units from one I had on the shelf and it came down some but not in range.

I hate a dead gauge. I’d rather it be high and working than just unplugged and dead.

Just make sure you get the copper line with the gauge. They all come with plastic line and it can melt if routed wrong.

I have a lot of money in this motor. This is a bit of a piece of mind for cheap

View attachment 1938492



I’ve been running an Autometer mechanical gauge for a few years now, it was always on my mind to use a “T” fitting and get my factory gauge back in operation.


Crap, as it is now I’m running 55-70 PSI of oil.

Maybe I’ll pull the pan during spring runoff and mess with the pressure regulator.
 
Throwback to a year ago.

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This project has stalled out for a bit but plenty is happening behind the scenes.

A couple of big items got added to the list. Looking forward their arrival. Stay tuned.
 
Electric power steering?

No but I did run into a major issue with power steering but I have a fix for my issue. The motor will go back in without it so I can drive it to Shaw Fab to make it right @nvrlose54
 
A little update on the Warthog 4.4.2

Cameron reports that the machine shop had the new block in the vat earlier in the week.

Downtime has allowed me to catch up on stuff around the farm and even put some love on my other Cruisers and of course......let this project snowball even a bit more.

Coming soon (but not before it runs again)

Power Steering

We went through hell getting this factory 55 PS box located and rebuilt only to find out it’s a mini truck box. This will Bring Shaw Fab in a bit earlier in the shake-down process to make a bracket for the box.

While we are in there we will redesign all of the shock mounting locations on the front to accommodate some big bad burly shocks.

More to come on that too...

I have to work too much over the next few weeks so the target date is April 18 for the Warthog to live again.

Stay tuned as the parts start rolling back in.

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The second issue was lack of power to pull all the weight I want to pull in the Pig, yet keep it Toyota. The Warthog is a low mileage truck, in fact, it just turned 100,000 miles. The dissy and carb were just rebuilt special by JimC, but the motor set up for many years and it needs freshening up a bit.

Recently, Mosley Motors has completed a Hot Rod 2F build on The Delta Beast (a 1974 FJ40 I have a bit of history with) and it was all I could think about while I was struggling to pull my M416 up the hills of Central Alabama.

Fresh motor.....fuel injection......man. That's not too much to ask, right? The warthog deserves it.

Plus, this hot rod 2F thing is real. I had just taken my FJ40 (Project Patina) with a new, stock 2F and perfectly tuned carb up for a drag race to see for myself the difference in power.....

I'll let the video tell the tale



So quiet
 
Couple quick things I learned from the race car scene, never hang a T on the block - instead remote mount it on the body away from vibration, for quicker gauge response run a bigger line to it, ballpark oil pressure should be 10 lbs per 1000rpm...

Good luck with 4.4.2
 
Couple quick things I learned from the race car scene, never hang a T on the block - instead remote mount it on the body away from vibration, for quicker gauge response run a bigger line to it, ballpark oil pressure should be 10 lbs per 1000rpm...

Good luck with 4.4.2

I’ve got an aftermarket gauge on it. The 68 one in the cluster is dead.
 
@FJ60Cam is quiet. A heart surgeon in the zone.

He will put the 4.4 on life flight for a mid-morning surgery at Tilda Bogue.

The transplant team is assembling. We’ve called in the Marine.

T-24 hours until burnouts resume.
 

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