Builds The Warthog - 1977/73 combo (3 Viewers)

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Aight. Got it mostly done. I need to weld up the steering rod. @under_psi is going to do it for me. He’s better at that stuff. I can burn s*** in but detail stuff like this. Nah.
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added all the bolts to weld plate so it would not shift
View attachment 2548640It’s in and all my boogers flapped away 😑View attachment 2548641
Steering rod needs 5”. The OD of the male shaft fits perfectly in a 80 series HD drag link of which I had and sacrificed for the job
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Mocked it up. Suspension is at full droop so the angle on the drag link will be very similar to where it was stock with the lift.
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Tomorrow I’ll wrap up the steering rod and then burn in the shock mount.

I
Ah, took me a minute to figure out you were working on steering column...
 
All in. I am going to go get some longer M12 shouldered hex bolts and lock nuts tomorrow. Thanks @under_psi for the sweet beads

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Got it all together and bled. Took it out. Horrible bump steer.

Crazy. I don’t feel this is a ridiculous angle at all. At least not one that would make it as bad as it is.

I ordered a spacer from @4x4labs that will let me use this FJ60 arm. That will get me 1” more drop.

He also sells a proper arm that does not need a spacer and I ordered one of those for the Lake City Limo

Good thing is, all the clearances are good and the shocks fit correctly.

I can work this bump steer thing out.

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I want to know how this Redhead steering box holds up after you put some miles on it. I've had West Texas Offroad do two boxes for me and they eventually leak as bad as ever.

I spoke to them and feel pretty comfortable with the processes they do to rebuild these.

If you have a core, with shipping both ways it’s about $500
 
This will help a pretty good bit to get the angle correct.

Still searching for a weld on tapered bung for the steering stabilizer. All the ones i am finding are bolted in with Ubolts

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I've had some issues with west texas, too. I'll try Redhead next.

Nolen, you switching back to a 60 arm? I'd like to rebuild my 80 box with the 105 shaft upgrade, but it needs the 80 arm. What I need is an 80 arm with the 60's drop. They are made from cast steel, so bendable, I'm just not sure how to bend something so thick without a forge. The 60 arm looks so weak next to the 80.
 
Got it all together and bled. Took it out. Horrible bump steer
Now that your box is mounted you'll need to look into a shorter arm to try to see if you can get these bars parallel in the direction of this photo.
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Might add some more toe and see what that does before you change too much.
 
I've had some issues with west texas, too. I'll try Redhead next.

Nolen, you switching back to a 60 arm? I'd like to rebuild my 80 box with the 105 shaft upgrade, but it needs the 80 arm. What I need is an 80 arm with the 60's drop. They are made from cast steel, so bendable, I'm just not sure how to bend something so thick without a forge. The 60 arm looks so weak next to the 80.

Bad news there. The 105 arm is even different than the 80 arm. You have to buy the arm when you buy the 105 shaft. The shaft is larger in diameter at the splines.

I’m not real concerned about bending an OEM 60 pitman arm. Small or not. That’s gonna be a tough one to bend.

As for toe....I am already running about 1/2” because I like toe and replace tires like underwear anyway
 
Now that your box is mounted you'll need to look into a shorter arm to try to see if you can get these bars parallel in the direction of this photo.
View attachment 2549575Might add some more toe and see what that does before you change too much.

I see what you are saying now.

I do have a flat 80 pitman arm that is 1” shorter eye to eye.

Which one do you think is hurting me most? The angle front to back or up and down?

Top is 105
Middle 60
Bottom flat 80

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Which one do you think is hurting me most?
Perfect angles are impossible so everything will be a compromise. IMHO getting them as parallel as reasonable will help reduce bump steer. At this point your box is welded so a shorter arm will be helpful and I would use the lower flat 80 arm and put a few bends in it to get the angles you need and that will shorten it up a bit more as well and see if that solves some of the issue.
 
For the record, moving the box any further back would have had issues. Mainly the rear bolts would hit the motor mount braces so anyone reading this for the how-to instructions... the box is where it has to be unless you have a *gasp* non OEM motor mount setup then you are free to move it back.

I’ll try the 60 arm first. It’s going to be a bit shorter eye to eye and down 1.5” or so.
 
If it wasn’t such a PITA I would rotate the box to angle the arm down and back and that would help you in both directions.

Let me know if you need help bending that 80 arm and I’m happy to help.
 
Since the internet’s have been pretty worthless as a step by step to do this swap, I’ve done this entire swap based on these two photos😬

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