Builds The Warthog - 1977/73 combo (2 Viewers)

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This is super fun cutting the passenger shock tower off. Not everyone seems to do this on the threads I’ve read here in FJ60 Power Steering swaps. Some just leave this alone and make something for the drivers side.

That would drive me nuts having 3 shocks of one type and the 55/60 style front on the passenger side. Besides, the Ford tower allows about 2” more travel than stock in the front

I took as much material off as I could with the plasma cutter but I still think it took me 30 minutes of solid grinding to get the frame ready for the mounts

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One side down. I got way distracted when my HUGE Milwaukee order arrived that I put in when I sold Patina :D

The shocks come with two size bushings but to neck it down to use 1/2” bolts I had to use some sleeves

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Ran to town and grabbed my Iron Pig drag link that I had powder coated just because.

(I had other stuff getting done)

Got home and spent the last hours of the day getting the old steering stuff removed and clearancing my fenders

I’m unsure exactly where this thing goes. Main thing seems to make sure I miss the motor mount and the rest does not look like it matters.

I don’t have tube for sleeves or enough M12 bolts I don’t think so I’ll be heading for more supplies tomorrow.

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I’m unsure exactly where this thing goes. Main thing seems to make sure I miss the motor mount and the rest does not look like it matters.
I would try to keep the drag link as parallel to the tie rod as possible to minimize funky bump sear, clamp the box to the frame and confirm everything clears your pitman arm when turning lock to lock, other than that yeah the rest doesn’t really matter.
 
I would try to keep the drag link as parallel to the tie rod as possible to minimize funky bump sear, clamp the box to the frame and confirm everything clears your pitman arm when turning lock to lock, other than that yeah the rest doesn’t really matter.
Compared to my Saginaw 40 stuff the stock 55 drag link has a pretty big slope.

I’m going to have to order a bung to weld to my new drag link to add back a stabilier

I’ll need to find who sells that
 
That doesn't look like a 60 pitman arm in the picture, 60s have a pretty big drop down which might help the drag link angle a tad.
 
That doesn't look like a 60 pitman arm in the picture, 60s have a pretty big drop down which might help the drag link angle a tad.

80 arm. Yeah I was talked out of that by IPORas he said it would put it too close to the spring for flex ....

In fact he prefers a flat 80 pitman arm, which he sent that I feel is way too close
To the frame.

This angle is real close to the one I had with the stock setup and lift so I don’t expect any goofiness
 
Scrap..remember another reason we did not use the 60 arm. It takes that super long tie rod end that the stabilizer uses and with the narrow 55 axle 1/2 the drag link would be a tie rod.

I put this really high end Dobinsons stabilizer on my 80. If it will work on this one I’ll buy another and I won’t have to worry.

Got the frame brace fabbed up out of 1.5” DOM. Honestly you could probably keep your center arm bolted in there without the arm and keep a pretty good brace.

@nvrlose54 Shaw Fab had the Mini Truck boxed burned in HARD so that was a hell of a cut/grind to remove.

Now to figure out a fish plate.

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Do you need a steering stabilizer?

I am going to drive it and see. On my Saginaw conversions I don’t use them and don’t feel any need. I’ll assess after I get in and drive it
 
:popcorn:

Please get a couple pictures from inside the fender apron, showing the box relative to engine etc
 
:popcorn:

Please get a couple pictures from inside the fender apron, showing the box relative to engine etc
Here is how far to the edge of the 60 box I am.

I did the holes in the fish plate then put the box up and ran a 3/8” drill in one at a time. I held the box in with some M10 bolts as I went to all 4

Once the plate was off I drilled the holes out to 1/2”
Then I pulled the box off the plate and drilled the outside holes to 7/8” and added the 2” pieces of tube. I ended up cutting the push/pull drag link up to make my bars

You can see where my holes are in reference to the motor mount from the inside photo

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I'm guessing it's too late now, but it looked as if the pitman arm wasn't tightened up by seeing the lock washer. That little bit of movement might effect your clearance between the tierod end and frame. I know because it happened to me.
 
Aight. Got it mostly done. I need to weld up the steering rod. @under_psi is going to do it for me. He’s better at that stuff. I can burn s*** in but detail stuff like this. Nah.
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added all the bolts to weld plate so it would not shift
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It’s in and all my boogers flapped away 😑
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Steering rod needs 5”. The OD of the male shaft fits perfectly in a 80 series HD drag link of which I had and sacrificed for the job
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Mocked it up. Suspension is at full droop so the angle on the drag link will be very similar to where it was stock with the lift.
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Tomorrow I’ll wrap up the steering rod and then burn in the shock mount.

I
 
Scrap..remember another reason we did not use the 60 arm. It takes that super long tie rod end that the stabilizer uses and with the narrow 55 axle 1/2 the drag link would be a tie rod.

I put this really high end Dobinsons stabilizer on my 80. If it will work on this one I’ll buy another and I won’t have to worry.

Got the frame brace fabbed up out of 1.5” DOM. Honestly you could probably keep your center arm bolted in there without the arm and keep a pretty good brace.

@nvrlose54 Shaw Fab had the Mini Truck boxed burned in HARD so that was a hell of a cut/grind to remove.

Now to figure out a fish plate.

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I think the xJ-70 rod end is much shorter...
 

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