Builds “The Dude”: New Owner w/ Basket Case FJ60

[js0k]

If you’re in this thread you know what’s up with the dude, so skip the introduction. Wheelin vids start 4 minutes in:



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[js0k]

One month til solid axle summit. Exciting. I'm not registered but I do not care.
Prep will include:
Lining out my carb
Trimming and tightening rear bumper
Tie rods (need to get the good stuff from Georg)
Rear brakes (Kinda don't want to mess with them because they work but they aren't great)
Figuring out a couple weird sounds and vibrations
Reinforcing winch plate (oh I didn't post that) and wiring up winch
Swap BFGs back on
Wash rig & install new batch stickers (going to take a lot of planning)
Oil change
Get a GMRS radio
The usual tool and spare part packing and prep
Should be fun.

 

[mattressking]

Do all that, just make sure your parking brake works well. If it doesn’t, adjust the rear brakes. If they are used shoes adjust the star wheel until rear wheel is locked, back off 3-5 clicks max. Make sure your parking brake works then cycle it (fine tunes the shoe depth) and make sure the pull is within spec (7-9 clicks).

 

[John McVicker]

I just now have tuned in to your thread. Will go back & look at some of what you’ve done…BUT…I had to take a moment and comment on your video in your post 221. Some really good driving skills there my man…good job!

 

[HemiAlex]

I just now have tuned in to your thread. Will go back & look at some of what you’ve done…BUT…I had to take a moment and comment on your video in your post 221. Some really good driving skills there my man…good job!

He's a monster.

 

[MoaByte]

If you don't, it will be all down hill from there. .
Have a great time!

 

[CenTXFJ60]

One month til solid axle summit. Exciting. I'm not registered but I do not care.
Prep will include:
Lining out my carb
Trimming and tightening rear bumper
Tie rods (need to get the good stuff from Georg)
Rear brakes (Kinda don't want to mess with them because they work but they aren't great)
Figuring out a couple weird sounds and vibrations
Reinforcing winch plate (oh I didn't post that) and wiring up winch
Swap BFGs back on
Wash rig & install new batch stickers (going to take a lot of planning)
Oil change
Get a GMRS radio
The usual tool and spare part packing and prep
Should be fun.

I’d prioritize your breaks. You’ll regret the moment the pedal goes to the floor or they just don’t perform to expectations.

 

[js0k]

Do all that, just make sure your parking brake works well. If it doesn’t, adjust the rear brakes. If they are used shoes adjust the star wheel until rear wheel is locked, back off 3-5 clicks max. Make sure your parking brake works then cycle it (fine tunes the shoe depth) and make sure the pull is within spec (7-9 clicks).

I’d prioritize your breaks. You’ll regret the moment the pedal goes to the floor or they just don’t perform to expectations.

Thanks for the tips! I definitely need to do rear brakes now. I haven’t done anything on that list yet, but parked the dude a couple days ago because the brakes felt a little funny, looked and I was low on fluid! I have new wheel cylinders and everything to install, probably going to buy better shoes though. Don’t want rock auto ones exploding on me.

Debating on 555 tie rods and Japanese shoes from cruiser outfitters. Will have to call. I’m a gen Z who doesn’t like calling people though. Lol

Also, one of my parking brake bellcrank cables is missing, and the bellcranks are frozen, but part of the brake work will be making those work again too (and adjusting as per the MATTRESS KINGs specs).

Extended sway bar endlinks, drilling gas cap, inspecting some weird noises and vibrations, and topping off every fluid, adjusting or new belts, and oil change and air filter are a few other random things to do. I should make a list and get started on this!

 

[js0k]

Assessed the damages yesterday, and now the part and accessory ordering is complete, here’s a list-
Midland GMRS radio
Rapid tire deflator
Brake master
Brake booster
Parking brake bellcranks
New parking brake “wire” to replace missing one
Sway bar endlinks
Belts
Air and oil filters
Exhaust mani donut
555 Tie rod endlinks
Motor mount & fuel pump to have as spares

I already have all of the drum brake parts, disassembled one side but can’t really reassemble until new bellcranks are in. One of mine is rusted solid.

Basically, my to-do list now looks like this:
Clean rig inside and out, install sleeping platform, get spares, tools, and gear together
Install new batch of stickers (high priority)
Trim and reinstall rear bumper
Drill small hole in gas cap
Extend diff breathers?
Once Cruiser Outfitters order is in-
Replace tie rod ends and grease everything with a zerk (leaf bushings, driveshafts, etc)
Once rockauto order is in-
Replace sway bar endlinks
Install parking brake bellcranks, reassemble drums with all new parts (and “wire”) and adjust
Install booster and master, bleed brakes
Replace air filter, adjust belts and clutch slave
Add bolts to winch plate, remote mount solenoid with kill switch and 2GA battery cables
Go on drive to bed in the new brake shoes, oil change upon return
Top off T case and axle juices
Reconnect temp gauge ground wire
Check vacuum, if low track down leak and fix!

Ok, I think that about covers it. Perfectly doable!

 

[MoaByte]

View attachment 2735388
Assessed the damages yesterday, and now the part and accessory ordering is complete, here’s a list-
Midland GMRS radio
Rapid tire deflator
Brake master
Brake booster
Parking brake bellcranks
New parking brake “wire” to replace missing one
Sway bar endlinks
Belts
Air and oil filters
Exhaust mani donut
555 Tie rod endlinks
Motor mount & fuel pump to have as spares

I already have all of the drum brake parts, disassembled one side but can’t really reassemble until new bellcranks are in. One of mine is rusted solid.

Basically, my to-do list now looks like this:
Clean rig inside and out, install sleeping platform, get spares, tools, and gear together
Install new batch of stickers (high priority)
Trim and reinstall rear bumper
Drill small hole in gas cap
Extend diff breathers?
Once Cruiser Outfitters order is in-
Replace tie rod ends and grease everything with a zerk (leaf bushings, driveshafts, etc)
Once rockauto order is in-
Replace sway bar endlinks
Install parking brake bellcranks, reassemble drums with all new parts (and “wire”) and adjust
Install booster and master, bleed brakes
Replace air filter, adjust belts and clutch slave
Add bolts to winch plate, remote mount solenoid with kill switch and 2GA battery cables
Go on drive to bed in the new brake shoes, oil change upon return
Top off T case and axle juices
Reconnect temp gauge ground wire
Check vacuum, if low track down leak and fix!

Ok, I think that about covers it. Perfectly doable!

I'm worn out just thinking about it. I hope it goes smoothly.

 

[NookShneer]

What play list goes with that punch list?

I have to get busy this week with a large list myself.

Looking forward to catching up in CO.

 

[js0k]

What play list goes with that punch list?

I have to get busy this week with a large list myself.

Looking forward to catching up in CO.

Probably this one! Looking forward to it!

 

[roadstr6]

Great work with "The Dude"! Quick question...in your video you mentioned a DIY dizzy recurve. I've done one of these too. I am curious what you did and what springs you used. How do you like the homebrew recurve?

Whoops! just saw in post #62 that you did my recurve. What do you think?

 

[js0k]

Seems good to me!

Great work with "The Dude"! Quick question...in your video you mentioned a DIY dizzy recurve. I've done one of these too. I am curious what you did and what springs you used. How do you like the homebrew recurve?

Whoops! just saw in post #62 that you did my recurve. What do you think?

 

[js0k]

Brakes just need to be adjusted and bled (after reinstalling the installing the original booster- got the wrong one from rockauto!). New parking brake wire and bellcranks appear to be a success. Everything else in the drums new too.

555 TREs installed, just need to put on truck. Got them to the same measurements as the old ones, way different thread count though. The threaded portions of the new ones are completely different lengths than the old, making the count pointless.

Goal is to have the dude on the ground and driving again today

 

[js0k]

Back on all four. There’s a little drama, but what would we do without it?

Installed new master earlier, then conventionally bled the brakes. Took it around the block, and yikes, hardly stopped! Nearly ran a stop sign. Drums are adjusted and parking brake is perfect now, though.

Bench bled the master, then bled all around again and the pedal got much better.

Got it up to 35mph after that, and besides needing an alignment, something a little odd is happening. Sounds like a screech or grinding noise is coming from driver front wheel, and almost seems to pull that way in a non-alignment related fashion.

After I bled the brakes the first time, that caliper was seized. I was able to pry the pad from the rotor, but maybe it just isn’t happy.

When I got home after hearing the grind, I jacked that corner up and the wheel spun fine. I’ll see what’s up after the alignment, but am I right for thinking worst case that’s wheel bearings or caliper?

Anyways, that was some progress today. Will see about lining out those other details tomorrow. Rear bumper still needs a little trimming, fluids, and I guess I need to pack.

Hopefully I can get away with doing that approx one minute before leaving.

 

[js0k]

View attachment 2742534

Back on all four. There’s a little drama, but what would we do without it?

Installed new master earlier, then conventionally bled the brakes. Took it around the block, and yikes, hardly stopped! Nearly ran a stop sign. Drums are adjusted and parking brake is perfect now, though.

Bench bled the master, then bled all around again and the pedal got much better.

Got it up to 35mph after that, and besides needing an alignment, something a little odd is happening. Sounds like a screech or grinding noise is coming from driver front wheel, and almost seems to pull that way in a non-alignment related fashion.

After I bled the brakes the first time, that caliper was seized. I was able to pry the pad from the rotor, but maybe it just isn’t happy.

When I got home after hearing the grind, I jacked that corner up and the wheel spun fine. I’ll see what’s up after the alignment, but am I right for thinking worst case that’s wheel bearings or caliper?

Anyways, that was some progress today. Will see about lining out those other details tomorrow. Rear bumper still needs a little trimming, fluids, and I guess I need to pack.

Hopefully I can get away with doing that approx one minute before leaving.

Do they test drive after alignments? I wouldn’t want an alignment guy behind the wheel if the caliper does decide to seize and put him into oncoming traffic. Maybe I should look into that a little more first (if they do test drive).

 

[js0k]

Replaced calipers and installed sleeping platform today- have an alignment appointment tomorrow.

Current to do list:
Get spares, tools, and gear together (wash the clothes you’re gonna wear, fill water container, and charge the electric lantern beforehand, dumbass)
Trim (again) and (finally) reinstall rear bumper
Drill small hole in gas cap
Replace exhaust donut gasket
Add more exhaust hanging wire
Replace air filter, adjust belts and clutch slave, oil change
Top off T case and axle juices
Grease shackles, driveshafts and new links
Check vacuum, if low track down leak and fix!
“Install” GMRS radio that’s coming tomorrow

 

[MoaByte]

Telluride is getting rain showers about every day. You might be able to have a camp fire.

 

[js0k]

The dude has been aligned, and drives pretty well besides a nice new vibration! The vibe is mechanical and audible at about 40mph (haven’t gone faster), and also happens on deceleration.

This was not present before I took the Dude apart last week, which makes me think it‘s because of something I’ve done.

The back is now empty and rear bumper is off (usually there are a lot of tools back there). Maybe the rear is a little high and throwing the DS angle off because of this?

Different wheels and tires are on, and they’ve been sitting (not likely)

Sway bar endlinks were messed with and are pretty bad (not likely)

Going to throw some weight in the back and go for a drive, then check driveshaft bolts, u joint, slip yoke, and pinion play, and hope it’s something simple!