Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (4 Viewers)

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No work on my rig here recently, just driving it almost every day. After 4.5 years, I did turn over 15,000 miles on the Sniper install. I also did a fuel mileage check on my last fill-up, I'm getting 12.64 MPG with 100% country driving.

Bilstein shock update.....GREAT upgrade from the OME units, and should have changed them out sooner!

There is an oil change here in it's near future.

Bravo on the “Billy’s”..👍
 
The Bilstein units I installed were the 33-062518 & 33-185606, with the recommendation from this thread < click here >.

Im using the 33-185606 shocks on all 4 corners that are 22.5" extended vs The 33-062518 shocks are only 18.5" extended. I use the longer shocks for more up travel so you do not bottom out the shock. Also, using OME 1" taller shackles than factory so you ideally want longer shocks. Regardless of size, these shocks are amazing.
 
Had a gauge cluster light go out.....but with a few in my supply, it was a simple change out. NOTE, I disconnected the fusible-link before messing with the cluster.

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I'm on my second in two years. Right or left side on cluster?
Visual, Left side. Now that you mentioned it, seems like I've had to replace that one before? :hmm:
 
Me, Mr Cheap'O - I'm using the $13 Incandescent..... :hillbilly:

I'll say this. I had my wife stand behind my rig last night to let me know if they were working. With the running lights on, no big deal with brightness, but with the brake depressed, it about blinded her.

Also, an installation note. The light & rubber gasket wasn't installed from the front. The lip on the light is a little wider than the opening of the hubcap, and doesn't fit. Hence me installing it from the backside of the hubcap.
Is this light a compression fit?

It looks like the trim ring is on the outside of the hubcap & you mentioned the light & seal are mounted from the back of the hubcap.

Did you use any hardware to secure it on the backside?
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Is this light a compression fit?

It looks like the trim ring is on the outside of the hubcap & you mentioned the light & seal are mounted from the back of the hubcap.

Did you use any hardware to secure it on the backside?View attachment 3693352
No additional hardware, the light's soft outer rubber trim secures it to the front style hubcap. That ridge you see in the photo you posted wouldn't fit through the hubcap opening, but there is another lip under the outer trim is what secures the unit from the rear. See post #2171 below for a better explanation with photos.
 
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Every time I open this thread I gain more appreciation for a 40 series that is built and driven. I see too many where a guy buys a truck and immediately puts an incredible amount of money and time into building an awesome truck then sells it. To each his own but I appreciate a build that is driven and enjoyed for what these trucks are. This is one of my favorite threads.
 
@S.CarolinaFZJ80 & @TheHardWay .... & MUD

Here is a little better description / pics of how my 3rd rear light is press-fit into the hub of my spare tire:

1 - As you can see below, I've left plenty of wire behind the light to be able and disconnect the harness.
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2 - A rear photo of the press-fit light
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3 - You can see the ridge under the outer rubber trim where it clamps to the back of the hubcap.
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4 - the new 3rd light reinstalled into the hubcap.
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Nice! I just changed the oil to 20w50 castrol gtx high milage that I added zinc too. I had gtx classic in it but switched becuase the high milage was 10 dollars cheeper.
 
For my low-rev 2F, I install gas-engine-specific, non-racing, motor oil. I'm not a tribologist, so I claim no expertise.
Apparently, the since '20, the latest (API SP), oils have a new detergent-package that work with the lower ZDDP levels, increasing efficacy of the type and diminished quantity of ZDDP, even with flat-tappet camshafts. ZDDP is a kind of engine-deposit that reduces wear. Years ago, it was undesireable because it increased friction, and having too much of it spoiled catalytic converters. I heard that a large quantity of ZDDP, whch is actually an acid, will make a significant ZDDP-deposit, and actually contribute to more wear because it builds a thick protective layer, then flakes off, leaving metal exposed to metal. I've seen reports of diesel-motor-oil being used in a medium-rev gas engine that had cleaned under the valve cover so well, that it looked brand-new.
 
I’m liking the Baldwin (B2) filters too, have a B6 on my SBC’d 40 as well.
 
I run Rotilla 20W 50… what do you like about the VR1? I’m sure it’s well researched.
The engine builder, same guy who used to rebuild all of ACC 2F engines, advised me to only run Valvoline 20W-50. I picked the VR1 variety for the zinc content.

As far as research, the 'Bob is the Oil Guy' website is a rabbit hole you are more than welcome to venture into. :)
 
The engine builder, same guy who used to rebuild all of ACC 2F engines, advised me to only run Valvoline 20W-50. I picked the VR1 variety for the zinc content.

As far as research, the 'Bob is the Oil Guy' website is a rabbit hole you are more than welcome to venture into. :)
Haha. I’ve gone done that rabbit hole before.. I read somewhere on Mud on the topic of what’s the best oil for 2F engines? It went something like this. “If there is oil in it, that’s good”…”no oil is bad”.
 

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