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- #421
Snapped a photo of my air box before I Cerakote it, I thought the way the stainless looked around the cone after it was welded was kind of cool…
Target carrier (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter J Mack
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bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Nice, always like tig welding stainless.
Working on my adjustable swaybar, according to the chart I looked at I should have about 450 lbs above and below stock rates at the ends of the arms and within 80 lbs at the center bolts.
Tires gonna rub those bolts?
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- #424
The new bar is 26” long and with the arms attached it’s about the same width as the factory rear bar, the bottom joints will attach to the same location on the rear end.
The difference between the two is the new bar is 1” diameter the factory bar is .875” diameter, the arm length on the new bar is 6”- 8”- 10” the arm length on the factory bar is around 9”
The parts are in the Cerakote oven curing now but I’ll try to take a picture tonight of the two bars together.
The OE sway is bent to clear pumpkin, where as that bar is straight.
In my opinion, poses two issues:
1. More stress on the axle housing mount, since you'd have to move it further away from the housing itself to clear pumpkin.
2. May be a rock magnet that far behind axle housing.
In my experience, those are better suited to frame mount, but they have to be long enough for the arms to clear the outer frame rail, yet not rub the tire.
Granted there's not as much travel with leafs, so little possibility of the arms inverting, but have set those up while cycling rear to ensure.
Have an effective rate calculator somewhere..... Be back.
In my opinion, poses two issues:
1. More stress on the axle housing mount, since you'd have to move it further away from the housing itself to clear pumpkin.
2. May be a rock magnet that far behind axle housing.
In my experience, those are better suited to frame mount, but they have to be long enough for the arms to clear the outer frame rail, yet not rub the tire.
Granted there's not as much travel with leafs, so little possibility of the arms inverting, but have set those up while cycling rear to ensure.
Have an effective rate calculator somewhere..... Be back.
- Thread starter
- #426
This is a rear bar..
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- #427
Yes and mine mounted to the frame with links that ran down to the rear housing. Are you thinking that I may have an issue using a different bar in place of the factory bar?
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- #429
I will not have room to add a front sway bar so I'm hoping that this bar will help with the added weight on the roof rack when it's loaded with all my crap..
No, I think I'm a confused dumbass....actually I know it.
Completely forgot how the 55 bar oriented. My mistake.
Now that we've qualified myself....
I've jacked with different sways on other LCs and have found it not always best to compensate for a removed front sway by over sizing the rear.
That said, there isn't a front sway on a pig, nor a good way to go about adding, so dunno if thesame undesirable attributes are even relevant.
Sorry for junking up your thread.
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- #432
HA…. You had me worried there for a minute, I was claiming this as a small victory in getting one step closer to finishing this pig and you had me thinking I was taking another two steps back..
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- #433
I also wasn’t sure about just going bigger and the effects on handing so that was the reason for making it adjustable and having a spot that has a similar rate to the factory bar. On the plus side now everything will be standard so it will be easy to change out bars and arms for different spring rates for future experimentation.
Thanks for questioning me and making me think about what I’m doing before I go too far down the wrong path!
Guys, I'm going to junk it up some more. With 60 axles, like I have, the front sway bar fits good. I would think pretty easy to adapt to a 55 axle. I know the width is different, but could be overcome. Body roll isn't a fun feeling for me, so anything I can do to stop it, is worth trying.
JMack, I hacked on my rear bar in order for it fit around stuff and I'm very interested in how yours pans out. It might be a problem solver for me. If you would, keep us updated on the mounting, etc.
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #436
Ron,
This picture shows the two bars lying next to each other and shows how close they match up.
For mounts I just removed the sheet metal factory mounts and machined new ones out of 1” square stock and welded them in the same spot.
Added some new backup lights.
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JMack,
Thanks for the pictures, but how do you adjust it? Are the ends of the shaft splined? I'm trying to use a 60 sway bar and that's where I'm getting in trouble with the LR tank. I might have to go your route and move it to the front of the axle.
Thanks for the pictures, but how do you adjust it? Are the ends of the shaft splined? I'm trying to use a 60 sway bar and that's where I'm getting in trouble with the LR tank. I might have to go your route and move it to the front of the axle.
npulver
Metal Messager
Ron, If hes running the design i think hes running, the ends of the shafts are running on bearings inside the blocks with a bolt or set screw for the link. You adjust the sway bar by the 3 bolt hole configurations at the end of the "link" causing different tensions.
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The ends of most bars are splined and adjustment is made by moving the attachment for the link to arm connection either further or closer to bar.
You can alter the length of arms, thickness of bar, length of bar to allow for various mounting configuration, even bend the arms if solid, or fab arms that clearance whatever may be in the way. The effective rate at the ends of the arms is what's important.
It's pretty technical for the racing crowd, but what was explained to me was to try to calculate in the design having 25,50,75% increases above OE effective rate, by having a long enough arm to move where the link attaches.
Dunno if right or wrong for our application, plus stiffer bars do impact the axle's ability to articulate, that being why balancing between a front and rear bar is ideal, in a perfect world.
Spent a lot of time discussing 80 sways in an effort to control exacerbated body roll.....and we see how well all the talk worked for me, BUT Ruff Stuff had about the thickest I could find in the length required for about half of what a PAC racing bar cost. For shorter bars less than 48", Speedway Engineering is very helpful in determining rates.
Hadn't really given much thought to the Pigs bar, having never driven a lifted pig....or a pig on leafs less than 40 years old, but do not care for body roll on a DD so very anxious to hear JMack's review, since it appears his selection is a nice fit.
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- #440
OK I recalculated my sway bar this morning, after we started talking about it I realized I used a different bar in my original calculations, I’m using a 26” long bar now.
Maximum Angular Twist 15.6°
Factory sway bar should be around 1146 Force (lbs)
New 1” sway bar with joints connected at the 6” mark 2369 Force (lbs)
New 1” sway bar with joints connected at the 8” mark 1777 Force (lbs)
New 1” sway bar with joints connected at the 10” mark 1422 Force (lbs)
I can always switch out to a .875” bar if needed.
New .875” sway bar with joints connected at the 6” mark 1389 Force (lbs)
New .875” sway bar with joints connected at the 8” mark 1040 Force (lbs)
New .875” sway bar with joints connected at the 10” mark 833 Force (lbs)
This photo shows the different pin locations, 6”- 8” - 10”, not sure if you can see the splines in this crappy cell phone pic but the arms connect to the bar via splines.
I’m using the Schroeder 7/8" end solid torsion bar and they offer .400 TO 1.000 diameter in this bar, I’ve seen bars up to 1.375” diameter that will work with this same system
Link: http://www.schroedersteering.com/OWbarsPage.html
Hope this helps!
