Target carrier (2 Viewers)

[TuffMudder]

The extreme-strength grade 9 steel cap screw has a minimum tensile strength of 180,000 psi, I used a 3⁄8 – 16 that has a tensile stress area 0.0775 so I’m guessing around 13,950 LBS of shear, this should be more than adequate for any sway bar you would run on a pig.

I like the Ridgid lights and these fit perfectly in the spot where the factory backup light were.

How confident are you on 14k being plenty of shear string? I personally have no idea how much shear strength a pin through the swaybar links will face. Heck, right now, I don't even have a good feel for what my pig is going to weigh, though i'm guessing heavier than average. Then taking it on rough trails with alot of rough bouncing that will likely multiply that force.

My plan is to put the link bar bushings on two separate pieces of 1.25" diam solid stock (one upper and one lower) about 1-2" long each. These would be connected by appropriate length .25" walled 1.75-2" diam chromoly tubing. The chromoly will slip over the solid stock and a quick release pin will connect them. I think this will provide a quick disconnect that will retain adequate strength. Also, if i need to disconnect the swaybar (I'm not convinced I'll need to, but thought I go ahead and give myself the option), The chromoly will come out completely so that its not banging around underneath the truck when i'm on rough terrain. My apologies if that description doesn't make any sense.

I was actually thinking I needed a pin with 20k pound shear strength but I quite literally reached up inside my butt and pulled that number out...ok, maybe not literally. I know you have a hell of a lot more design experience than me, so if you feel pretty comfortable with 14k, that will make pin selection a little easier allowing me to using a 5/16" diam pin instead of 3/8"

I'm thinking of using something along the lines of:
5/16" pin vs 3/8" pin

I haven't used my rigid lights yet, but I'm pretty sure I'll love them. I didn't have to worry about fitting to the stock location since I've got a 4x4 labs rear bumper in progress. Luke was able to get the dimensions on the lights and had the bumper custom cut for them, just outside the tow point mounts.

 

[J Mack]

How confident are you on 14k being plenty of shear string? I personally have no idea how much shear strength a pin through the swaybar links will face.

I was actually thinking I needed a pin with 20k pound shear strength but I quite literally reached up inside my butt and pulled that number out...

The pins will not see a significant more amount of force than the sway bar their attached to can apply.

I’m not aware of a sway bar capable of applying 20,000 LBS of force in any situation while attached to a FJ55.



I come up with around 1146 Force (lbs) from the factory sway bar at 15.6° maximum angular twist if I increase the maximum angular twist to 25° I still only get 1632 Force (lbs) If you double the force of the sway bar and give yourself a 150% safety margin you still come in well under the 14K of a 3/8” pin. I believe a lifted pig will benefit from a heavier bar but if you put a substantially heavier bar you’ll most likely have other issues not related to your pins, I’m in no way a land cruiser or sway bar expert so take my advice with a grain of salt.

 

[TuffMudder]

I think i had it in my mind that the sway bars could potentially see the full weight of the vehicle which led to my gross over estimation. The sway bar will actually be stock. The only thing that is larger are the links.

I planned it as large as it is because the solid stock will have a hole drilled through the middle of it and when i first started I was actually considering 3/8 and even 1/2". This lead me to be concerned that 1" solid stock (which would allow me to go with 1 1/2" tubing) with a 1/2" hole through the center might be too weak, so I stepped up the size.

Knowing the size I can safely use and that size being smaller than I originally thought, may give me some leeway to downsize.

What problems do you get with larger sway bars, and if i'm just looking at the links being larger am I still looking at running into issues?

 

[npulver]

What problems do you get with larger sway bars, and if i'm just looking at the links being larger am I still looking at running into issues?

If you run too stiff (I'm over exaggerating here) but you'll run into the issue of not having any suspension twist, which makes the vehicle tipping over become sudden and unexpected. Basically instead of having twist/flex your topside wheel will just follow the top of the vehicle before getting proper weight transfer. Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[J Mack]

I think i had it in my mind that the sway bars could potentially see the full weight of the vehicle which led to my gross over estimation. The sway bar will actually be stock. The only thing that is larger are the links.

I planned it as large as it is because the solid stock will have a hole drilled through the middle of it and when i first started I was actually considering 3/8 and even 1/2". This lead me to be concerned that 1" solid stock (which would allow me to go with 1 1/2" tubing) with a 1/2" hole through the center might be too weak, so I stepped up the size.

Knowing the size I can safely use and that size being smaller than I originally thought, may give me some leeway to downsize.

What problems do you get with larger sway bars, and if i'm just looking at the links being larger am I still looking at running into issues?

A sway bar is a spring and only applies force as the sum of its size and attachment points.

If you’re using the factory bar and attaching it in a similar fashion to the factory attachment method then I see no reason why it would apply more force than it would in a factory pig. Mine had 3/8” diameter links from the bar to the rear housing very similar to most all OEM sway bar links, I’m not convinced you need 1” solid links.



In a perfect world we would run a front saw bar to help balance the body roll between the two bars, on my pig this would be very difficult so I need to try to limit my roll without adversely effecting my handling. This is some basic info on sway bars: http://www.houseofthud.com/cartech/swaybars.htm

If you run too stiff (I'm over exaggerating here) but you'll run into the issue of not having any suspension twist, which makes the vehicle tipping over become sudden and unexpected. Basically instead of having twist/flex your topside wheel will just follow the top of the vehicle before getting proper weight transfer. Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[TuffMudder]

Thanks npulver. That makes perfect sense

So you think 1" solid stock is still strong enough even drilled for the pins? I'd prefer to go as small as I can so long as I maintain adequate strength and 1" would allow me to step down to 1.5" tubing

 

[npulver]

I guess I'm confused. If your running a stock bar but thicker end links. That won't stiffen anything up. The end links are just a "perch" for the sway bar. Going thicker will make them stronger. But going strong for a factory bar will gain you very little. You only need to beef up the links if you beef up the sway bar diameter too.

 

[TuffMudder]

The only reason I'm going thicker on the links is because they will be drilled for a quick disconnect pin. I originally planned going MUCH thicker, because I was thinking I'd have to have a 1/2" pin to retain enough strength. Knowing that I can use a 5/16" pin helps, but there will still be a 5/16" hole drilled through the sway bar links so I would think stepping up from stock diameter would be necessary. Jmack mentioned his stock link was 3/8" diameter. If i put 5/16" hole through a 6/16" diameter link bar, I'm thinking that wouldn't hold up. However, I definitely don't need the 1 1/2" diam I originally proposed.

I may not be explaining this very well. If you're still confused, let me know, and I'll take another shot at it.

 

[J Mack]

The only reason I'm going thicker on the links is because they will be drilled for a quick disconnect pin. I originally planned going MUCH thicker, because I was thinking I'd have to have a 1/2" pin to retain enough strength. Knowing that I can use a 5/16" pin helps, but there will still be a 5/16" hole drilled through the sway bar links so I would think stepping up from stock diameter would be necessary. Jmack mentioned his stock link was 3/8" diameter. If i put 5/16" hole through a 6/16" diameter link bar, I'm thinking that wouldn't hold up. However, I definitely don't need the 1 1/2" diam I originally proposed.

I may not be explaining this very well. If you're still confused, let me know, and I'll take another shot at it.

Are you wanting to drill a hole in a solid hunk "O" steel and just put a pin in as attachment points for you sway bar?

You'll need some type of rubber or Hiem on the ends for deflection.

 

[J Mack]

The new paint finally arrived just in time for Christmas, hopefully sometime next week I can start applying it. I’m going to coat the entire inside and underside with Noxyde and add the ceramic paint additive from Hy-tech to help with some sound deadening and insulation.



Paint: https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/0609446





Data for paint: http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/industrial-brands/mathys/acrylic-coatings/noxyde



Ceramic paint additive: http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html

 

[J Mack]

I finished the rockers and have them in primer ready for paint, I also sprayed Valugaurd Rust Preventive / VG-101 in the rocker before I welded them closed hopefully this will buy me enough time that I never have to replace them again. A little more work to the body and with a little luck I should be able to squirt some color on this this in the next couple of weeks.

 

[npulver]

Man that looks good!

 

[J Mack]

Thank you!

 

[scrapdaddy]

JMack,

Rockers look good and that was fast work.

Question on the Rustoleum... Will you be able to mix your colors or take what they offer?

 

[J Mack]

Thanks Ron,

I’m not sure if the Mathys Noxyde is tintable so I just ordered black. It is recoatable with a verity of paints so you could easily have any color top coat and still have the benefits of the Noxyde.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Alright, I didn't know that. Seems to read like a primer and top coat in one. Are you going to prime over the Mathys or just top coat.

 

[J Mack]

On the inside I’ll use it just like a Lizard Skin product with the Hy-tech ceramic paint additive to help with sound deadening and heat control and on the underside I’ll use it as an undercoating, in both cases I’ll just leave it black. I was going to us a different product for the same effect but I ran into some drying and application issues so this is my plan “B”..
I may experiment with top coating it then applying it in the rock chip areas at a later date but for now I need to just say on track and get this pig off the operating table.

 

[71greenpig]

Looks so good. ..i cab hope mine gets to this stage one day....

 

[scrapdaddy]

I'm on track now, thought you were painting the body with that.

 

[J Mack]

Looks so good. ..i cab hope mine gets to this stage one day....

Thank you!

I'm on track now, thought you were painting the body with that.

Ron,



It’s probably a bit confusing to follow along with my incoherent ramblings at times but I’m trying to give product names and part numbers in an effort to either help someone that wants to head down the same path or at the very least warn them of the dangers ahead.

A lot of the products I’m using are industrial coatings that I believe will slow or prevent the inevitable pig decay from resurfacing.