Target carrier (9 Viewers)

[scrapdaddy]

JMack,


On the AC, that's the smaller one, right? It looks good, just sitting there.

 

[J Mack]

Scrapdaddy,

Yes this is the smaller unit they call the Vapir II.
I only spent a few minutes looking at it and taking these pictures for you, first impression is this is very good quality stuff, the vents and control exceeded my expectations.

I had some setbacks with parts and I’m slowly creeping up on my busy season for work so it’s looking like it might be fall/winter before I can get the pig tore apart and all this new stuff put in.

 

[Midgainc]

jmack, have you thought anymore about cutting instrument panels?

 

[J Mack]

jmack, have you thought anymore about cutting instrument panels?

I am still working on placement of vents and controls for my AC on the computer, I would like to place the center vents up high to help get air to the rear of the cab but I like the look of all lower rectangle vents better.

I have some different round vents coming and I think I’ll move all the gauges to a lower panel and arrange all my switches, AC/controls, two vents, stereo and power ports to the center panel but time is a big factor for me now so everything big is on hold for now.
I'm just tinkering on little things like brackets for now.

 

[scrapdaddy]

J Mack,

I'm pretty sure my center vents will have to go under the dash, also. I would like to mount two rectangle vents, one on each side of the dash, so I get some defrost on the side windows. I ordered the Vapir, too.

Thanks again for pointing me in their direction.

 

[nuclearlemon]

when are you going to get that cummins mounted?

 

[J Mack]

Ron,
I'm thinking the same thing but using six vents in the dash.
Four round vents in the dash and two rectangle vents in the steel side panels on either side of the dash pad to help defrost the side glass.
I'm still working on location but this PDF will show what I'm thinking

 

[J Mack]

when are you going to get that cummins mounted?

I was hoping to have it in now but luck was not on my side.
It's looking like fall before things slows down to the point any meaningful work will happen on the pig.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I like the lay out. With that many defrost vents, two on the sides and the three for the windshield, will have to split one of the units four, to run to the five vents. Make sense? I guess you could make a Y pipe. I'm in the same boat, we'll figure it out!

 

[J Mack]

The unit has eight outlets, my thought was to duct the two center rear outlets to the windshield defrosters, use the two outer rear outlets with the deflectors as floor vents, use the two center front outlets to duct the two center dash vents and split the two outer front outlets to duct the two lower vents and the two outer rectangle vents.

With this arrangement I will have the ability to move maximum air to the rear of the cab with the two high center vents and still heat and defrost with the mixer as intended.

 

[scrapdaddy]

J Mack,

Do they make some kind of Y pipe to split the outlets into two? On my 71 there is three defrost vents, just for the windshield. I forgot about the floor dumps, I like warm feet. Thankfully, in my situation, nobody in the back too much.

 

[J Mack]

Order from their CAA catalog and save 1/2 $$$
3 Way Hose
Adapter
2" Hose Adp.......2-1078
2 1/2 Hose Adp..2-1079

I'm more concerned with trying to get a somewhat even temperature in the cab with this system.

The factory system can pull outside air and pressurize the cab pushing air to the back thru the rear cab vents. These systems only recirculate cab air and without a column of air directed towards the rear you will always be fighting to find that comfortable temperature with the front and rear of the cab at opposite ends of the temperature spectrum.

 

[J Mack]

Looking at some alternatives to Lizard Skin.

This is an all in one heat and sound dampener: http://www.metalshield.com/faq.html

And this is the ceramic "microspheres" that you can add to any paint to make a thermal barrier coating: http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html

 

[scrapdaddy]

J Mack,

I've read about the paint additive ones, before and really don't know of anyone using them before. What's your thoughts?

On the other one, I don't like anything all in one. I tried some paint and primer all in one, in the house and didn't like it. Sorta like an adjustable wrench. I guess they all work and no good way of testing, before applying. Any of your hotrod buddies use it. I know the hotrod shop in St.Louis, sells the Lizard Skin products.

 

[J Mack]

Ron,


I’m reading if you want the ultimate system use a combination of spray and mat products.

My thought is find a durable undercoating specifically designed to encapsulate and protect the substrate from the elements and abrasion then add an insulating agent like micro spheres if necessary, I’m looking at HY-TECH METAL SHIELD and I think it’s very close to what I was thinking about making. I would apply this to a dry film thickness 15-20 mils making it a sound deadener by default. I guess I would call it “all in one” but my main priority would be protection, sound deadening, and heat control in that order as I would be adding a mat of some type over the top for better heat and sound protection.

I’m also looking at their product called Hy-Tech Bus Kote #2150 Bus & Recreational Vehicle Coating


I’m not opposed to LizardSkin but I’m not sure their product is designed to be the “best” undercoating but a better sound deadener. They talk about 40 wet mil thickness to get the sound deadening effect and I think any elastomeric product at that thickness would offer similar results so why not look into a better protectant. If their price was more in line with other similar products I probably would have just applied LizardSkin and moved on to more important things but (A) my pig is on hold with parts delays and work schedule so I have time to do the research and (B) I very well could come full circle and find the LizardSkin process is the best for my needs.


At this point I know very little and I’m reading a lot, some of the stuff I’m reading.







Hotrodders discussion forum: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alternative-lizard-skin-103610.html

These guys talk about using multiple products liquid/mat for their system: http://store.secondskinaudio.com/how-to-insulate-your-ride/


These guys also talk about using multiple products liquid/mat for their system: http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive/sound-insulation


Ceramic insulation Wiki: http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Ceramic_insulation



3M GLASS BUBBLES: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/bubbles.php?clickkey=303431

Hy-Tech Bus Kote #2150: http://www.hytechsales.com/prod2150.html



Metal Shield undercoating: http://www.metalshield.com/index.html

 

[scrapdaddy]

man, some good information! I really like the Hotrod site. I hang out on some of the Military sites and they have been using latex house paint for a while now. The ceramic spheres would go well in that application. I would hate to spend Lizard Skin money on my Deuce.

I do know the LS is not a hard finish, like bedliner. That's why I used the Monstaliner over all of it.

I didn't want any foam sheet type insulation, because of moisture retention, spraying multiple coats of any liquid product will seal all the seams, etc.

Good research!

 

[J Mack]

What I think I know,

LizardSkin Liquid Ceramic Insulation is ceramic “glass” balls in latex paint and can be duplicated at a fraction of the cost, like $30.00 a gallon as opposed to $88.00 a gallon for the LizardSkin

LizardSkin Sound Deadener appears to be some sort of waterborne undercoating that is able to be recoated but as you mentioned not very durable. I think I stop by our automotive paint store and see what the new hot setup is for undercoating and go from there.


It’s been awhile since I’ve messed with any of this stuff and technologies now are pretty amazing and it looks like it will take me some time to catch up.

 

[J Mack]

I’m looking into some options for my rear axle and brakes.

I found these weld on Axle Flange to mount Front Toyota spindles to the rear axle to turn your rear axle into a Full Floater. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/FLANGETOY.html



If I use the FJ60 rotors & calipers I need to come up with a hold brake.



Have any of you guys used a Mico Incorporated - Lever Lock?

For Brake Fluid Systems

Lever Operated

3/16 & 1/4 Inch Fittings



Detailed Description



Lever Locks are designed to supplement a vehicle's original equipment parking brake by utilizing the hydraulic service brakes. The Locks perform as an operational holding brake only and are not intended for prolonged parking. Lever Locks are manually operated, one-way check valves which lock fluid under pressure in the selected brakes. Hand operation leaves the operator's feet free for clutch and throttle pedal operation. Includes low pressure warning switch. Available for use in single, dual, split or anti-lock brake systems.



http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MIC0/02640125/N2502.oap?ck=Search_N2502_MIC_-1_-1&mn=Mico Incorporated&mc=MIC&pt=N2502&ppt=C2389

Or

Hydraulic Park-lock uses line pressure to hold your brakes locked. Just push the brake pedal down and push the Park-lock lever. ( Not the be used as an emergency brake )

 

[Delancy]

Some swear by line locks, since they're a good solution for late cases.

Don't know that it's ever occurred, but a hydraulic failure that may necessitate emergency braking, renders useless.

 

[J Mack]

Don't know that it's ever occurred, but a hydraulic failure that may necessitate emergency braking, renders useless.

This is the part that has me scratching my head, the original drum brake on the back of my T-case was barley functional as a parking brake and I can’t imagine it would do anything as an E-brake