Official 37" and up picture thread (6 Viewers)

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Ha! Gotta come down to so cal and say hi to you and nugget once the black beast is done.
For sure. You don't have to go to so cal as we are Central Coast and up.
The front has had the control arms moved forward about an inch. It has aftermarket arms in the back and im not sure if its been moved back.
This is a common mod for guys running 37s or larger tire. But I have not seen it done Quite Like this and Frankly it's not looking very safe. The plate usually covers the whole mount and should only have one hole in it. It is also welded to the mount making the new hole stronger instead of acting like a washer.
The picture is not very clear but it looks like the new hole is drilled very close to the original or partly in it. At the very least that plate should be welded in JMHO.
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Hears the ones I built They have skid plates built in but are the same basic Idea. The holes are 1 1/8" forward
 
So im on the cusp of the 37" life. Ive read through all the old posts from forever ago and some of the tires from way back when are no longer available in a 16" rim. What is everyone running that is still available in an OEM rim size? Ive seen the MAXXIS Trepadors and Creepy Crawlers as well as the Interco IROKs. Any others out there?
 
So im on the cusp of the 37" life. Ive read through all the old posts from forever ago and some of the tires from way back when are no longer available in a 16" rim. What is everyone running that is still available in an OEM rim size? Ive seen the MAXXIS Trepadors and Creepy Crawlers as well as the Interco IROKs. Any others out there?
Trxus, also so form Interco is a good one, ran them for three years before going to 39s. Was really happy with them.
 
I finally made it on this tread
Dobinsons 3" lift
Eimkeith RAM radial arm drop bracket (moves forward 30mm)
Milestar PATAGONIA M/T 37X12.50 R17 (Tires balanced great with low road force on all 4)
Wheel is American Racing bullet holes 17x8 et+2
First pic is side to side with my old Toyo's 35x12.50 R17
I don't have flex pics yet, but there is no rubbing with normal driving
Factory gearing for now, it is not as sluggish as I was expecting, there is plenty of grunt to keep up with traffic

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I finally made it on this tread
Dobinsons 3" lift
Eimkeith RAM radial arm drop bracket (moves forward 30mm)
Milestar PATAGONIA M/T 37X12.50 R17 (Tires balanced great with low road force on all 4)
Wheel is American Racing bullet holes 17x8 et+2
First pic is side to side with my old Toyo's 35x12.50 R17
I don't have flex pics yet, but there is no rubbing with normal driving
Factory gearing for now, it is not as sluggish as I was expecting, there is plenty of grunt to keep up with traffic

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Im very intrested in the report back on how much you lowered the front bumpstops, now the tires are moved forward. BoxRocket ended up replacing the inner fender bolts with smooth button head bolts. Had minamal front trimming.
 
Im very intrested in the report back on how much you lowered the front bumpstops, now the tires are moved forward. BoxRocket ended up replacing the inner fender bolts with smooth button head bolts. Had minamal front trimming.

I just got the tires installed today, I haven't had time to cycle the suspension to check clearance. I'll get back to you guys once I get that wrapped up.
 
For sure. You don't have to go to so cal as we are Central Coast and up.
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Hears the ones I built They have skid plates built in but are the same basic Idea. The holes are 1 1/8" forward
Hey Broski, what is the reason for making the back part of the bracket lower? Is it just to incorporate a "skid plate" into the mount?
 
Hey Broski, what is the reason for making the back part of the bracket lower? Is it just to incorporate a "skid plate" into the mount?
The Picture is deceiving, For the most part Yes, The 1/4" skid plate just clears the bottom of the control arm and is carried forward. Here is a picture with the control arm installed. The bottoms of control arm mounts were trashed!!!
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It adds caster.
Caster is dependent on where the bolt holes are. The plates extending past the bottom of the stock bracket has no effect on caster.

The Picture is deceiving, For the most part Yes, The 1/4" skid plate just clears the bottom of the control arm and is carried forward. Here is a picture with the control arm installed. The bottoms of control arm mounts were trashed!!! View attachment 2395445
Nice. Thanks. Looks great.
 
Caster is dependent on where the bolt holes are. The plates extending past the bottom of the stock bracket has no effect on caster.


Nice. Thanks. Looks great.
My bad then, I didn't realize that these kept the holes in the original height.
 
I need some advice. I am looking at moving up to 37s and I know that everyone is running 37x12.5 but I was thinking of running a 13.5 tire. The wheeIs I am looking at are from Battleborn. They have some bead locks with a 3.5" backspace and a 4.5", which would be best for the 13.5" tire?
 
I need some advice. I am looking at moving up to 37s and I know that everyone is running 37x12.5 but I was thinking of running a 13.5 tire. The wheeIs I am looking at are from Battleborn. They have some bead locks with a 3.5" backspace and a 4.5", which would be best for the 13.5" tire?
The 3.5 BS wheels will help keep the tires away from the inner fenders, frame, and radius arms. The shape of the tire and actual tread width will determine whether or not you will need to trim the fenders in order to not lose a lot of up travel. A narrower tire is easier to tuck up and into the wheel well.
 
The reason so many go with 37x12.5 is - it's the narrowest 37 tire available, but 37x11.5 actually would better(if it existed) for all those tire rubbing problems everyone struggles with. Unless you have floatation concerns, like mud bogging or maybe soft sand? Other than that, what aspect of performance would the extra width help with? For the same reasons, a narrower wheel is better because it pulls the middle of the sidewall in a little, relative to a wider wheel. But - the tire manufacturers minimum recommended wheel width for their 37s is usually 8" - so you might run into shops refusing to install on the common Toyota 7-1/2" Tundra/ Sequoia wheels, for instance, even though there's actually no problem and 37x12.5 on 7-1/2" wheels is a field proven combination.

So it seems to me - going with the "wider is better" idea has a lot more cons than pros.

Also - for wheels - suggest ditching the backspace concept entirely. It's just confusing. Instead - to compare different wheels - think in terms of offset & width. As starting point - OEM for our landcruisers is 16x8" x (ET 0mm offset). So, for instance, a -12mm offset wheel just moved the whole tire outward by ~ 1/2". If it's 7-1/2" or 8" or 8-1/2" or 9" changes very little about the tire fit. It just moves the widest part in or out by about half. Tread would stay in exactly the same place compared to another ET-12mm wheel. Try and figure that out using backspace - around and around you go.
 
I have been struggling with this same decision. They key reason to go with 37s is for 2 inches of increased clearance although some probably just like the appearance. With 35s I get very good clearance and maximum stuff of the tire in the wheel well and no rubbing. My question for those that have 37s is the clearance you gain worth the attenuation you lose due to loss of tire clearance?
 
I have been struggling with this same decision. They key reason to go with 37s is for 2 inches of increased clearance although some probably just like the appearance. With 35s I get very good clearance and maximum stuff of the tire in the wheel well and no rubbing. My question for those that have 37s is the clearance you gain worth the attenuation you lose due to loss of tire clearance?

~1 inch of ground clearance. 35 to 37 diameter change is only 1 inch on each side.
 

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