My 76 1UZ build (1 Viewer)

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Thanks guys, you are right @J Mack, not too far from here we have a napa that has been there for 100 years and they guys in there would probably say the same thing - why would you do all that, just do this??? I get used to the ease of the internet and ordering shiny new parts. I have tomorrow off, will run down and see what they have.

Thanks @gonzopancho and @fj55-100, this is a 1UZ and the rail is slightly different in construction, but pressure and flow and such are very similar. Will definitely be going 3/8 - no supercharger...yet. I have so many little things to tick off now I will try as j Mac suggests, keep this one as simple as possible.

I still have to deal with cooling (planning a recore and dual fans with custom shroud if they will fit), TOB fittings, gas pedal linkage, driveshafts, custom ps lines, air box, glass, shocks, exhaust, cable assemblies (emergency, tc and lockers) - looks like the spitronics wiring harness will be in the mail soon, so that's a win. Still, can almost see that little light at the end of the tunnel.
 
I have an external pump and filter for my vortec 350 that is mounted to the underside of the floor just beside the fuel tank. The first pump lasted 300kms, so I am hoping that was a pump issue, not a fuel flow issue. I have the return teed into the side of the stock FJ40 tank, and the fuel pump inlet connects to the stock pick-up in the bottom of the tank. I used high pressure fuel hose from Greenline hose and AN hose barb fittings.
 
@mano002 did you use 3/8 all the way back? Above we were chatting about the pinch points for flow like the bulkhead flange.
Tomorrow I have to pick up a windshield for the 80, then napa, then city-wide radiator for advice and possible recore, then down the hill to Greenline for a male male adapter to connect my TOB hose to the clutch cylinder (hoping the existing cylinder will push the TOB, it looks to be the same size as the wilwood they recommend). None of it will be OEM so I won't post pictures (@J Mack :))
In an ideal world my firewall connections are largely done on Saturday and the engine goes in on Sunday... emphasis on ideal.
 
Yeah, it's 3/8" from the pump to the motor, and 1/4" return. If this pump doesn't last, I'm going to get a fuel cell made and put an in-tank pump. I have added complexity with an aux tank that I can pump back and forth to as well.
 
We got out of our deep freeze to about -4F over the weekend so I decided to drop the engine in, that went relatively well. It is sitting a bit higher than I remember during initial test fitting and will require modifying the tunnel well behind the heater, but, lots of clearance down below and I clocked the dana so the front drive shaft is just above the bottom of the chassis rail. Its about as low in the engine bay as I can go anyway as the zerk on the steering just brushes the manifold heat shield and the AC that I will use for onboard air is 1/2" from the PS. Lots of room for exhaust though which is good and my stock bench seat still clears. Could have maybe brought it forward an inch, but didn't want to risk pinching the rad. Will fab the cross-member some time this week.

Got the hard lines in for the fuel - still need to connect to the tank - will be going through the top for a pick up. Peered inside the tank though, super clean, I am pretty sure the PO had it coated at some point. Also ordered a recore on my rad - 4 core, be ready later this week.

Now, a question, in the last pic I have the PS pump end of the pressure line. My local hydraulic shop says that they don't have anything that will match the flare fitting, maybe I can replace the bajo fitting? @TachedOutOffRoad, did you have any problems here? I am thinking maybe a speed shop might be able to help.

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The Scout box would be an inverted flare for the pressure side IIRC. My Scout box is currently off ATM, I could remove the hose and try to match up the fitting if you need.

* never mind - JMack knows👆
 
They didn't seem to have a problem at the scout end, it was the metric end they stalled on..

One of the racing shops seems to think that if they can match the thread, we can remove the banjo at the pump and replace with an adapter to AN-6 and then run a teflon hose to an adapter on the other side... we'll see
 
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He didn't volunteer that as an option
He's an idiot let’s just do this ourselves.



I’m guessing that’s about a 16mm fitting. JEGS 110544: AN to Metric Adapter Fitting [-6 AN Male to 16 mm x 1.50 Male] | JEGS - https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/110544/10002/-1

But you’ll need to measure the OD of your old nut to confirm.



The box is easy. JEGS 100701: Power Steering Adapter Fitting -6 AN x 5/8 in.-18 Inverted Flare | JEGS - https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/100701/10002/-1


You’ll need a couple hose ends. JEGS 104022: PTFE-Lined Hose End Fitting [90 degree, -6 AN] | JEGS - https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/104022/10002/-1



And a chunk of hose and you’re done.



I put JEG’s links but these same parts are available everywhere.
 
I will try and collect my parts this week
eBay might be a good option for you in Canada.




 
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This past summer someone was selling fj55 front clip and bumper and such - In the end it was worse than mine was so resold it, but kept the grill and bumper...I think after the resale I am in to it for $100. I straightened the bumper this past summer and was just wire wheeling it at lunch and it turns out it's an old Con-Ferr, cool eh?View attachment 2573358View attachment 2573359

Score! Send it out for media blast then powder coat!
 
@PabloCruise I am more of a wire wheel and rustoleum guy - that way I can touch up or change things with no fuss

Been frigging around with the transmission tunnel this weekend, what a PITA to fit. Doesn't help that because the dana is high, I have to cut further back for the DS, more on the "mod" side than I had hoped, but in it now - kinda looking like a limpet.

Much more to do though, have to move the sticks back a bit so they don't hit the vents, behind them will go levers for the cable lockers and then a whole bunch of banging to get the floor seam to line up - and probably a bump under the seat to accommodate the DS flange. Bench seat still clears though.

Oh, and my ever supportive wife walked by and said: "you're going to cover that with something right???" clearly she was impressed :)
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