Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (18 Viewers)
- Thread starter GLTHFJ60
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- Thread starter
- #3,782
For stripping, while dusty, the paint eater disks/drums are the most effective thing I've used yet. They're pricey, and get eaten up when you run them against an edge, but they work.
Moving to the front fenders, there is rot along the top edge where the inner structure is spot welded to the outer skin. I considered buying new fenders, but if I were to do that, I'd have to cut them up for tire clearance anyway. Welded a 1/4" round bar around the wheel opening, following again in @boots4 's footsteps, then used my rotabroach set to cut the spot welds and separate the fender. Haven't seen anyone do this in the past, so maybe it helps someone in the future.
Moving to the front fenders, there is rot along the top edge where the inner structure is spot welded to the outer skin. I considered buying new fenders, but if I were to do that, I'd have to cut them up for tire clearance anyway. Welded a 1/4" round bar around the wheel opening, following again in @boots4 's footsteps, then used my rotabroach set to cut the spot welds and separate the fender. Haven't seen anyone do this in the past, so maybe it helps someone in the future.
- Thread starter
- #3,783
Since I'm not using the factory hood springs, I removed the stiffening plate. Also, it was causing more rot. Hate layered metal that's exposed to the outside. Continued stripping this, and coated everything in naval jelly, so that I can proceed. Needs more work, but we'll get there.
- Thread starter
- #3,784
Windshield channel is in good shape. Fortunately (or unfortunately) I've broken the windshield enough times in the past 8 years that I've been able to keep the rust at bay there
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- Jul 22, 2012
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- Winter Park, Florida
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Separating that fender doesn't look like it was very hard at all! What size rotabroach? Off to go borrow my dad's
- Thread starter
- #3,786
It wasn't. Smallest rotabroach you've got. My arbor allows me to go down to a 3/8" cutter, but 5/16" would work better. 5/16" is the right size rotabroach cutter for all of the toyota spot welds I've come across.
ontherxs
They call me Tim...
Nice work Johnny!
- Thread starter
- #3,788
Once the outer skin is off, you can take off the rearmost structure from the skin with a hammer. This is possible because the welds that secure this to the fender are cut off when you chop the fender like I have.
Next, it was on to some rot repair. The top of the fender skins have this little step in them, which was easy to make with some metal stackups and a chisel.
Not awful.
Next, it was on to some rot repair. The top of the fender skins have this little step in them, which was easy to make with some metal stackups and a chisel.
Not awful.
- Thread starter
- #3,789
Next up was the inner structure. After the layered portion for the hood spring was removed, there was lots of rot to be corrected.
Pretty tricky section to fill, with lots of curves and compound angles, but I managed to get a patch in there.
Smoothed it out:
Pretty tricky section to fill, with lots of curves and compound angles, but I managed to get a patch in there.
Smoothed it out:
- Thread starter
- #3,790
After patching, all the metal was stripped and coated in ospho, which was allowed to dry. Spray-bomb primer, then reassemble.
Put it on the truck to confirm alignment, then welded and painted with oil-based enamel. Idea is to prevent rust from starting up in here again. We'll see if it lasts.
Put it on the truck to confirm alignment, then welded and painted with oil-based enamel. Idea is to prevent rust from starting up in here again. We'll see if it lasts.
- Thread starter
- #3,791
Inbetween drying times for the fender, I addressed the DS A-pillar rain gutter. Removed it from the truck with the rotabroach, then cut the top with the angle grinder to remove just the a-pillar section.
Once removed, you can see how much rust is in here. The rain gutter itself was fairly rotted, but fortunately the a-pillar wasn't too bad. It's kinda neat, you can see where the leak must have been, within 6" of the top of the a-pillar, and how the rust follows that leak down.
Fun fact, toyota used some form of bronze filler where the body stampings met to form the body:
Once removed, you can see how much rust is in here. The rain gutter itself was fairly rotted, but fortunately the a-pillar wasn't too bad. It's kinda neat, you can see where the leak must have been, within 6" of the top of the a-pillar, and how the rust follows that leak down.
Fun fact, toyota used some form of bronze filler where the body stampings met to form the body:
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- Thread starter
- #3,792
Cleaned up the rust, treated with ospho, then welded the rain gutter back together.
Finished out the metal work. I'm pretty happy with the result, so let's hope the other side goes just as well. Still need to seam seal the gutter (obviously) but that'll be done with the rest of the roof paint prep.
Finished out the metal work. I'm pretty happy with the result, so let's hope the other side goes just as well. Still need to seam seal the gutter (obviously) but that'll be done with the rest of the roof paint prep.
- Thread starter
- #3,793
I've seen maybe one person have to execute these types of repairs on a FJ60 in the past, so hopefully this is useful to someone in the future. Body work takes a damn long time, lol.
Solid work there. Nice job.
I'm glad you've got an inside place to do the body work. I think that's one of the reasons I don't like doing body stuff because I'm still outside. One of these days that will change. Keep sharing your work, it's interesting.
Johnny, have you tried Por-15? I’ve mostly used as a chassis paint in the past because of its durability and the ability to apply direct to metal or over mild rust areas. Anyway I’m working on an old Mack cab and needed something to coat the voids that water could get but wouldn’t be accessible after everything gets put back together, the Por-15 can happen to be sitting on my shelf so I gave it a try and it worked surprisingly well. Just using a disposable brush I was able to get a reasonable coating into some funky areas and it flowed out well.
Hopefully you get this bodywork wrapped up quickly, I’m patiently waiting for the compound turbo 4BT moonshine portion of this build thread.
- Thread starter
- #3,797
I have some leftover por-15 but didn't think to use it. Will have to see how this oil based enamel works out in the long run.
Just splurge bought a cheap he351 on ebay moments ago. Shouldn't have given the other changes in flight, but oh well!
Just splurge bought a cheap he351 on ebay moments ago. Shouldn't have given the other changes in flight, but oh well!
I see a lot of a pillar rust on 60s. Cool to see that seam with the bronze. Where is the leak at you talk about causing the rust?
- Thread starter
- #3,799
The rain gutter caulk cracks over time, and left unchecked, lets water inbetween the rain gutter and a-pillar structure, causing rust. The a-pillar raingutter is tough because it's so narrow, you can't easily inspect.
- Thread starter
- #3,800
@J Mack and @boots4 should I go 24v manifold and port it to match, or 12v manifold? Need a new exhaust manifold to chop up to reorient. I wish I did, but I don't have the cash for a steed speed manifold.
I'm leaning towards the 24v just because it looks neat, but I've heard rumors of them cracking:
12v manifold, tried and true.
I'm leaning towards the 24v just because it looks neat, but I've heard rumors of them cracking:
12v manifold, tried and true.
