Are you running internal regulator to stay with the factory wiring?
Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter GLTHFJ60
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #3,762
Scroll up, it's an internal regulator conversion for this factory external regulator alternator. Not sure what you mean by factory wiring.
At least on 80 the factory internal regulator swaps over to the Cummins alternator to keep the factory plug.
- Thread starter
- #3,764
Not the same here. Single ign + wire to one post on the alternator excites the regulator, with this conversion regulator.
Just did this to a new old truck I picked up recently that has had charging problems from no charge to more recently over charging and now it's a steady 14V on the gauge. So nice seeing that stable now and it wasn't hard to set up.
Transpo IN8315 right?
- Thread starter
- #3,766
- Thread starter
- #3,767
New alt, another new regulator, and we're back in business. Put a new Ac compressor in as well, as my goal is to have air conditioning working in moonshine this year.
- Thread starter
- #3,768
Moonshine is finally in the healing room. I've pretty much got two months to work on her, as I can't really leave the house.
Here's the list of things I want to get done in rough order:
- Front fenders rework/rust repair
- ds front door replace
- windshield washer bottle install
- air conditioning mods/install
- air cleaner intake relocation (snorkel or otherwise)
- A-pillar rust repair
- remove headliner and insulate/paint roof
- finish floor insulation/coating
- **strip/paint the whole truck**
- injector line clamp
- winch contactor replacement
- rework/finish skidplate
- fix rusted out exhaust downpipe
- transmission and clutch eval/rebuild
- rear bumper/swingout possibly
- fix windshield wiper linkage
I'm stuck at the first few steps. I don't have space in the engine bay for a windshield washer bottle. As such, I'm considering relocating the batteries to the inside of the truck to gain space in the engine bay, and avoid having to run a snorkel. The air cleaner I've chosen is huge, and a pain to package, but I like the capacity. If I move the batteries to the inside of the truck, it provides an opportunity to clean up the plethora of wiring that i've added through the years, reduce some weight in the front end (not sure how much that matters) and trigger reworking the storage/sleeping system that i've been putting off for a few years.
Relocating the batteries gives me room to fit my windshield washer bottle, eliminate the need to run a snorkel, and give room for future upgrades, such as coilover struts or a second turbo.
Here's where I need some advice. Should I invest the time in relocating the batteries? I feel like it's the right thing to do for future-proofing, but want some more opinions on the matter.
Current engine bay. It seems like there's space for a washer bottle inbeween the PS battery and air cleaner, but the small bottle I ordered is too tall to fit.
I need to pressure wash this engine bay.
Started stripping the first panel:
Here's the list of things I want to get done in rough order:
- Front fenders rework/rust repair
- ds front door replace
- windshield washer bottle install
- air conditioning mods/install
- air cleaner intake relocation (snorkel or otherwise)
- A-pillar rust repair
- remove headliner and insulate/paint roof
- finish floor insulation/coating
- **strip/paint the whole truck**
- injector line clamp
- winch contactor replacement
- rework/finish skidplate
- fix rusted out exhaust downpipe
- transmission and clutch eval/rebuild
- rear bumper/swingout possibly
- fix windshield wiper linkage
I'm stuck at the first few steps. I don't have space in the engine bay for a windshield washer bottle. As such, I'm considering relocating the batteries to the inside of the truck to gain space in the engine bay, and avoid having to run a snorkel. The air cleaner I've chosen is huge, and a pain to package, but I like the capacity. If I move the batteries to the inside of the truck, it provides an opportunity to clean up the plethora of wiring that i've added through the years, reduce some weight in the front end (not sure how much that matters) and trigger reworking the storage/sleeping system that i've been putting off for a few years.
Relocating the batteries gives me room to fit my windshield washer bottle, eliminate the need to run a snorkel, and give room for future upgrades, such as coilover struts or a second turbo.
Here's where I need some advice. Should I invest the time in relocating the batteries? I feel like it's the right thing to do for future-proofing, but want some more opinions on the matter.
Current engine bay. It seems like there's space for a washer bottle inbeween the PS battery and air cleaner, but the small bottle I ordered is too tall to fit.
I need to pressure wash this engine bay.
Started stripping the first panel:
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- Thread starter
- #3,769
To call this ask out, should I invest time in relocating the batteries? It feels like the right thing to do, but I'm asking for some advice to make sure I don't regret doing it later.
She's gonna get prettied up.
The dual batteries have caused me creative positioning in the engine bay too. If you do move them you'll have a lot more room to play with under the hood that will come in handy when you get that second turbo stuffed in there! Would you plan some kind of power bar to put things on to keep things tidy? Some jump posts under the hood for convenience? I'd definitely want some kind of battery box if they are inside the cab, even like a marine kind of box.
Figuring out how to get a snorkel set up (really just want it for the cold air) in my configuration has left me continually head scratching. It looks likely that I'll go through the hood than out the fender but I still don't know. Love your air filter so I'd certainly want to keep that.
For future proofing moving the batteries will also allow space for a bigger radiator if that becomes a need with compounds, AC, and power. It became necessary for me.
The dual batteries have caused me creative positioning in the engine bay too. If you do move them you'll have a lot more room to play with under the hood that will come in handy when you get that second turbo stuffed in there! Would you plan some kind of power bar to put things on to keep things tidy? Some jump posts under the hood for convenience? I'd definitely want some kind of battery box if they are inside the cab, even like a marine kind of box.
Figuring out how to get a snorkel set up (really just want it for the cold air) in my configuration has left me continually head scratching. It looks likely that I'll go through the hood than out the fender but I still don't know. Love your air filter so I'd certainly want to keep that.
For future proofing moving the batteries will also allow space for a bigger radiator if that becomes a need with compounds, AC, and power. It became necessary for me.
I like the idea of the engine battery as close to the starter as practical, I'm currently working on a LiFePO4 Battery for my “house” battery that will weigh about 20 pounds and have the AH capacity of both my current AGM batteries combined that can easily be put inside one of my quarter panel compartments.
- Thread starter
- #3,772
I haven't figured it out yet, but I would need to have a power distribution block/bar/post setup for the alternator and starter, as well as the winch. Right now my power needs are spread out on both sides of the engine bay, so if I move the batteries, I'll probably move most of it to one side to keep it cleaner. Referring to the winch contactor, ARB compressor, fan controller, etc.
Through the hood is what I'm thinking too. Might be neat to have it sticking straight up with a canister style pre-filter.
Maybe something like this? No idea. This is called the "River Raider" snorkel for jeeps and FJs.
I'm not sure I want to get into a LiFePO4 setup in my cruiser. That's something I want for my camper build, but not for moonshine. Not looking to spend a bunch of money on this is the other factor.
With a big enough cable, i don't think an extra 3' of cable from the starter to the battery is going to make a big difference, but losses over time definitely could, so good point there.
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Yup, some kind of prefilter like that has been what I've been thinking too. I'd love to get it in the cowl but I haven't figured out a way in my set up yet. Your filter is further back than mine and pretty much already enclosed so hopefully you can make it work.
pistonpete
SILVER Star
Now thats a list . 
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
PRAISE ODIN!!
I have to find a way to keep up with your work ethic. based on our phone conversations you are going to push me hard on getting my truck ready to wheel once we can wheel. i am up for the challenge. keep me posted on your progress. looking good so far.
- Thread starter
- #3,776
Just got to keep on keepin on. Started pulling her apart yesterday.
I think I'm going to work over both front fenders before I start the a-pillar work. Started straightening the DS front fender yesterday after stripping it. I've never done body work like this before, straightening bent panels that is, but it's fun so far.
I think I'm going to work over both front fenders before I start the a-pillar work. Started straightening the DS front fender yesterday after stripping it. I've never done body work like this before, straightening bent panels that is, but it's fun so far.
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I relocated my battery to the undercarriage on my 40. It's worked out well for me and I have way more room under the hood.
What's been your process for stripping the bed liner?
- Thread starter
- #3,780
After having some beers with some buddies via zoom last week, I got to hammering on my DS a-pillar to see how far the rust went. There's some bubbling there because I assume the rain gutter caulk failed. Couple of bubbles in the bedliner up near the top of the a-pillar, nbd I thought.
Well it turns out this bedliner can keep itself together even when the metal underneath is rotting/rotted. Very disappointed in this. For this reason, I can't recommend anyone use bedliner for painting their entire trucks moving forward.
Center bottom frame is all I could see before the hammer. Top of frame is solid metal fortunately.
Towards the bottom of the a-pillar rain gutter, things got worse:
Stripped it all with paint eater disks/drums and it doesn't look awful, but the rain gutter definitely needs to come off to repair this:
Well it turns out this bedliner can keep itself together even when the metal underneath is rotting/rotted. Very disappointed in this. For this reason, I can't recommend anyone use bedliner for painting their entire trucks moving forward.
Center bottom frame is all I could see before the hammer. Top of frame is solid metal fortunately.
Towards the bottom of the a-pillar rain gutter, things got worse:
Stripped it all with paint eater disks/drums and it doesn't look awful, but the rain gutter definitely needs to come off to repair this:
