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So all the doors have power locks and windows but only 1 has the wires in the door. That has been difficult. We have devised a plan to put 6.5 speakers in the front door and a 6x9 in the back doors. Had to get a new part from Speed Hut because the dash lights didnt work. All the shocks are in and we took 2 leafs out of each side in the front. Put a junction block behind the battery to clean up the terminals. Added some support to my home made alternator bracket. It now has part of a Ford big block bracket.

We have done some things to prep the fuel tank mods but nothing interesting. Hopefully this week I can get more done. Happy Easter!
 
All doors are wired and working. Next is speakers. We cut open the tank. We need to add an access panel to add the Hydramat. What I discovered was the tank builder didnt follow my design and made a sump area that was too small. The side wall was keeping the sending unit arm from moving and the back wall was also too short. We cut the shift out of all that.
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After we hit it with all sorts of tools we made the area the right size.
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How deep is the tank where the pump goes in? Is there a shorter pump you can use?
The tank is 9in deep. the pump has springs and shrinks down to size. That isnt the issue. It was the float that couldnt move because of the wall. all fixed now.
Did they weld those baffles in?
Yes. and really difficult to get to without decimating the tank more.
 
Man! You always have to one up me, don't you!?!
Looking forward to seeing it again in a month and a half.
I dont think I have 1up'd anybody on this forum. I just wanted some little creature comforts.
 
Got the 6x9 in the back door. I needed a spacer to miss the window but the one I got has an angle and I'm not sure if I want it to angle forward or back. With only 2 speakers in it has some good sound. Better than I expected.
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Biltek 4x Door Car Power Window +... Amazon product ASIN B01721M3X6
This is the kit I got. The motors go in the door and have a gear that uses part of the door where you would normally crank. Because the door cards are flat it is harder to hide the motor than in a newer vehicle. To keep the profile as flat as possible I mounted it backwards. You also reverse the wiring because of that.

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The door locks are just solenoids that you attach to the lock arms.

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I'll get more pics of the door wire looms. They were only $8 each on line.
 
The link is just bringing up the amazon home page for me. Do you have the kit # you used? I noticed there's a few different kits available.
 
Biltek FULL COMPLETE CAR TRUCK 4 WINDOW AUTOMATIC POWER KIT WITH 7 SWITCHES KIT Amazon product ASIN B003XWEOQS
I guess that link is unavailable. This is the same company and if you go to the "frequently bought with" they have the locks.
 
With this window kit does one get rid of the regulators? I worry that the motors will burn out, as my windows get difficult to roll up.
 
Never mind. Just You tubed it.
Still worried that the motor will get too taxed.

How are yours doing? Were they tough to roll up before you input the electric system
 
Regulators stay in the door. My fronts have no issue. The back windows are slow. I keep lubing the crap out of them but I think I have a lot of crud making asphalt out of the lube and dirt mixture.

My driver regulator would not keep my window up. Because of the gear and motor being a worm style in the window it will not go down on it's own so now I don't have that issue. Probably cheaper than sourcing a good regulator.

I think the kit states 15 lbs of resistance. Maybe measure that on your crank to see if its worth it.
 

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