Builds Meet “Marge” our new Piggy (1 Viewer)

[MacDaddyRabbit]

View attachment 2957924View attachment 2957930View attachment 2957931

my horizontal rod is different ... same manifold

 

[bobm]

My 73 with Weber

Hope it helps

 

[jestlurnin]

Thanks for all the help guys. @bobm here is an overhead shot of how that attaches.

The rod from pedal to firewall pivot point is a skunk works custom repop. I believe all of the other linkage is original OEM.

 

[greenbeast]

Not sure if This helps but the firewall bracket I have on now is different then what I took off. Not everything attached but hopefully it helps.

Late 77 series with city racer desmog carb.

 

[bobm]

1 last thought!! The brackets that @MacDaddyRabbit and 1 are the same. Yours is more like @greenbeast is it an FJ40 bracket??? Can you reverse this #2 rod??

 

[greenbeast]

This is what came off my 40, I know not Apples to apples but hopefully something positive comes from it.

 

[bobm]

Take this out!!! It'll fit

 

[bobm]

DONE! Keep us posted

 

[greenbeast]

IF by some tiny chance the bracket I showed pic of may help, I'll gladly drop in mail tomorrow.

 

[jestlurnin]

Everyone, as usual the mud community have again proven to be rock stars. Thank you for all the parts offers! Matt and I are working to figure out what the heck is going on. Multiple theories and I’m positive we’ll find a solution. Marge ain’t my daily driver so not pressed for time. My only hope (other than getting this right) is that this will help out another 55 owner if they go down the path of going back to an OEM carb and linkage setup.

However while I’m waiting on a resolution . Heater box rebuilds…I’m debating having the metal portion of the box media blasted and powder coated. Have folks taken this apart before? It looks like the only way to do it would be to bend the metal back to get the rod out. I’ve searched 55 heater box rebuild and multiple other titles and can’t find an answer. Worried about breaking the metal if I stress it enough to get the rod out.

 

[Pighead]

Ain't that linkage rod from a 40? They had to put that zigzag in the rod to clear something on a 40.
My original rod is straight...

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Me too. Mine no zig zag, just straight, normal, regular, …. Wait, what are we talking about again?

 

[bobm]

@Lifelong40Fan you getting like me

 

[RUSH55]

So I will chime in with my .02

If this was my issue I would take the linkage off, and at this spot here, I would grind that inside nub off the shaft where it goes through that bent section and pull the shaft out. Then I’d reinstall everything and get it setup in the ideal spot that satisfies every little function, mark the shaft in two spots, remove it and weld it.
Done.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Ok moved the vertical rod that attaches pedal to the pivot point on the firewall from the driver side to the passenger side. No dice. The entire linkage is still to long to fit on the carb studs. I’m out of ideas.


1. This rod is too long.

2. Manifold is wrong for this year/setup? The part number of the manifold is 17111-61010. Production date of 55 is Nov 77’.
3. I have no idea

Maybe this will help:

17110	MANIFOLD ASSY
17100-61030	(09/1975 - 07/1976)	1
17100-61032	(08/1976 - 08/1977)	1
17100-61033	(09/1977 - 12/1978)	1
17100-61040	CALIFORNIA SPEC.

17111-61010 doesn't show as a valid part number period in the ToyoDIY database. Interesting because you get a lot of google hits for that part number that appear to be valid intakes for a 2F. Never had that happen before.

On second thought, maybe this information doesn't help at all.

So maybe this information will. The parts diagrams show different brackets for FJ4x vs FJ55. The 55 part appears to be thinner overall which would make up for the room that you are needing. I haven't figured out how to effectively cut and paste these diagrams so here's a photo:

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Everyone, as usual the mud community have again proven to be rock stars. Thank you for all the parts offers! Matt and I are working to figure out what the heck is going on. Multiple theories and I’m positive we’ll find a solution. Marge ain’t my daily driver so not pressed for time. My only hope (other than getting this right) is that this will help out another 55 owner if they go down the path of going back to an OEM carb and linkage setup.

However while I’m waiting on a resolution . Heater box rebuilds…I’m debating having the metal portion of the box media blasted and powder coated. Have folks taken this apart before? It looks like the only way to do it would be to bend the metal back to get the rod out. I’ve searched 55 heater box rebuild and multiple other titles and can’t find an answer. Worried about breaking the metal if I stress it enough to get the rod out.

View attachment 2958135

PLEASE DO NOT cut and weld here in any way shape or form !



that approach is a 1 way ticket to a very very dangerous situation , imagine stepping on the gas and letting off the gas peddle only to find out fast a 78 FJ55 will not stop

and we can all imagine was happens next !



NO WAY !

i will SKUNK-WORKS and T-TEN out this matter with @jestlurnin using UN-MODIFIED OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts ​

- there is one single un-known right now , and when him and i know what that is , we will report back .......

- i have never seen this or come across it before even in the slightest ?

- so a careful study begins to confirm and verify tech spec data , and using a focus points approach one by one eliminate the possible causes = finding the cause




SAFTEY is JOB 1 here and nothing supersedes that when i am involved ,

thanks for your understanding here

matt

​

 

[RUSH55]

PLEASE DO NOT cut and weld here in any way shape or form !



that approach is a 1 way ticket to a very very dangerous situation , imagine stepping on the gas and letting off the gas peddle only to find out fast a 78 FJ55 will not stop

and we can all imagine was happens next !



NO WAY !

i will SKUNK-WORKS and T-TEN out this matter with @jestlurnin using UN-MODIFIED OEM TOYOTA Genuine Parts ​

- there is one single un-known right now , and when him and i know what that is , we will report back .......

- i have never seen this or come across it before even in the slightest ?

- so a careful study begins to confirm and verify tech spec data , and using a focus points approach one by one eliminate the possible causes = finding the cause




SAFTEY is JOB 1 here and nothing supersedes that when i am involved

Oh dear, the purity burns me!
Perhaps then you should get rid of the fancy yellow-cad zinc coated linkage and get the right piece that will actually work.(?)

Best of luck with your factory approach

 

[Tanker120]

Not sure if this helps, and I have not done the research to see which go to which vehicle, but there are differences, pretty sure these are FJ40's though, but I could be mistaken.

.....

 

[MacDaddyRabbit]

Not sure if this helps, and I have not done the research to see which go to which vehicle, but there are differences, pretty sure these are FJ40's though, but I could be mistaken.View attachment 2958759.....

the middle rod works w the 55 OEM torque bracket ....

 

[bobm]

Oh dear, the purity burns me!
Perhaps then you should get rid of the fancy yellow-cad zinc coated linkage and get the right piece that will actually work.(?)

Best of luck with your factory approach

SUPER GLUE has High tensile strength itll work