Tool Roll Project

Tanker120

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Click on "Tool Rolls" below for the SALE thread for Purchase

Tool Rolls <<< click here


I am starting this thread to hopefully share ideas with anyone wanting to make their own tool rolls, a lot of what I have done was through trial and error (lots of error). I have found lots of information here on MUD, but learned a few other things along the way. I want to share some tricks I have learned and get some thoughts from others.

I got a lot of help form wscbill here on IH8MUD, his documentation and research, is the only reason I was able to get going on this project

I will be updating this over the next few days as I go through the process of making my second batch of rolls.

First post will be about the canvas, not sure if there is a governing agent out there that controls quality or making sure the canvas is what it says it is; I have found lots of variances in thickness and weight among what was supposed to be the same. Enough complaining…..

There are two types of canvas:

“double fill” or “piled yarn”
This canvas uses a Numbered system for Identifying Texture: (#1 - #12) like gauge measurement the higher the number the thinner or finer the texture. For my rolls I use a #10 Canvas or Duck, it seems to be closes to the original, and when compared by weight to the original roll it was very close to the same.

“Single fill”
This canvas uses an ounce weight so a 10 ounces = 10 ounces per square yard which is not the same as #10, which is about 15 oz per square yard of canvas-learned that one the hard way!

Single fill is not as stiff as it only has one yarn of weft were as double fill has two…ok I am not that smart…This info I found is from here:
Cotton Canvas Fabric | Wholesale | Heavyweight | Numbered Duck Cloth

The problem I found is not every manufacture seems to follow the rule or the material is either missed marked or improperly measured, best to get a sample and ordering the material send the sample you want back to the company to make sure color and texture is the same. Another lesson learned here!

True story, ordered a bunch of canvas from a military surplus, he said is was #10, it was a good price so I ordered 10 yards, it was actually 10 ounce and almost like normal material not canvas…..so again get a sample!

OK enough about material texture, now the color. (I will share different Canvas companies that I got the samples from later)

I have found out the Olive Drab (OD) Green has many variances and is anyone’s guess what a true OD Green color is, here is some shades I found, and again back to getting the sample, and once you decide on a color, make sure you send it back and let them know you don’t want any shade darker or lighter, another lessen learned!

Oh and another thing is if you want a treated canvas like the military uses on there tarps and canvas, there is a smell that comes form it, and although it makes the canvas look more authentic (makes canvas look older) I don't believe the original rolls were treated, this treatment makes the canvas heavier and some report that it may effects the coating on the tools. I have chosen not to us this type of canvas. and you will eventually get a nice treatment of oil and grease over the years.....;)

Main places I used to get samples: (there were others, but these were the main ones)
www.bigduckcanvas.com
www.rockywoods.com
www.ahh.biz/fabric/
Beachwood Canvas Works (treated canvas)

Here are some samples I sent for: all are considered OD Green, I chose the third form the right the two on the right are treated canvas. I went with OD Green because I believe that was close the original color, but again I could be wrong. If you really want to get close you could die the canvas which is not the route I wanted to try.

IMG_7689.JPG


Thread is the same thing, all considered OD Green:

IMG_7692.JPG


Next post will be cutting out of the canvas
 
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Tanker120

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Here is a close up of the color I chose, I got it from Rockywoods.com and was Item number DCD10C #10

IMG_7691.JPG
 
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Tanker120

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Sneak preview of color thread, canvas and twill tape test patch- color may change as I am using two cameras some are from my Samsung 5n phone (which does a pretty good job) and others are from my Cannon EOS 7D,

20160130_140928.jpg
 

JohnnyC

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Your pictures of the spools ... I see from left to right...

OD (near a #7) , green 383, ranger green, and foliage green

But they probably do call them all OD or maybe the end one or end two the call dark OD

Threads are hard because you have great variations in thread type as well... Cotton thread and polyester and nylon are going to be different as well

Looks like yours is nylon or polyester... Either one is good for longevity ... Poly probably a bit more so

Is the ranger green one nylon? And the rest poly?

Just wondering

:)


I like seeing more canvassers ... You will find most lower #ods as being more in line with what people call the khaki ... OD #3-#4 are what is referred to as pea green ... The pea green range is hard as they look very khaki in one light and blaring green in another
 

Tanker120

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Your pictures of the spools ... I see from left to right...

OD (near a #7) , green 383, ranger green, and foliage green

But they probably do call them all OD or maybe the end one or end two the call dark OD

Threads are hard because you have great variations in thread type as well... Cotton thread and polyester and nylon are going to be different as well

Looks like yours is nylon or polyester... Either one is good for longevity ... Poly probably a bit more so

Is the ranger green one nylon? And the rest poly?

Just wondering

:)


I like seeing more canvassers ... You will find most lower #ods as being more in line with what people call the khaki ... OD #3-#4 are what is referred to as pea green ... The pea green range is hard as they look very khaki in one light and blaring green in another


These are all polyester, and you pretty close on the colors, the second from the left was actually call Duffel bag green...the third one (Ranger Green) is called dark OD, so you are right, and that is the one I am using on this canvas.

Thanks for the info!
 

Tanker120

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What type of machine are you using ?

Thread size? V69?
I have an Consew with a walking foot and thread size is marked at T70, but believe that is same as V69
 

JohnnyC

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V69/T70 is a good size thread... Nice machines the consew... Wish I had a better one ... The needles for them are thicker at the blade than what I am using ... And since your machine is a straight stitch and not a slant your not going to have difficulty when doing the webbing

Just an FYI do not use canvak on your rolls to preserve the canvas ... Since your not going to have them out in the 'weather' the canvak will deteriate the poly thread
 
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I've had some of the same issues - no two batches of canvas are the same . I've ran the T70 thread through my old 1955 Singer model 66 with an 18 size needle - it ran it pretty good but sure complained about it , finally knocking it out of time a little which is easily fixed . Screwed up big time a few weeks ago and missed a deal on a Sailright II for $500 , still mad about that one . Picked up a slant-head 500A Singer Rocketeer - might try it with some light canvas work as it seems to have more punching and feeding power but in all honesty a walking foot is the only way to go . Just don't have the room here for now . I did finish my recovery strap toss bag like the one offered from that internet company out West - it turned out nice and works great !
Sarge
 

JohnnyC

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Besides myself and @Weber Sarge some other canvassers on the site are @metalonmetal and @antFJ as well as @thenative1 i believe made his own top as well ... There are a few others that their screen names escape me right now ..., but... welcome to the Guild :)

@Weber Sarge the slant needle singers seem to have an issue with going into webbing correctly and bite the webbing slanting the needle too far slamming the needle into the plate... I had recently done this on my 401a

They have plenty of power that's for sure... I broke two needle plates lol

I have a third coming in the mail as we speak... Straight stitchers are better at the webbing (if your stitching thru multiple layers of webbing like I was doing)

I have welded the two plates that I have and one I created a heavier duty straight stitch plate but groved the front to compensate for the 18 needle bending... It's better but ... Still an issue ... A size 19 needle is a tight fit (had to sand down the shank to make it fit) and has helped a bit as well

The ladies at church have been helpful over the years and pick their collective brains (probably 300 years of collective sewing knowledge ) as they 'are' the local 'Sewing/Quilters Guild' :)

image.jpeg






Recently picked up a portable machine for my daughters birthday... Can you guess who made the internals of her machine? Lol


image.jpeg
 

JohnnyC

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Tanker120

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Thanks for the welcome JonnyC, nice machine....I initially tried to use my home Kenmore machine, was breaking needles all the time, even the ones rated for jeans, also bought a cheap walking foot adapter, lasted about a day...

Here is some of the basic equipment I am using for the project,
-Consew Machine
-Cutting Mat
-Roller cutter
-Material scissors
-small scissors for thread
-Dry Wall T Sqaure (works great on the cutting mat)
-stitch remover
-Tape measure (cloth)

My Sewing machine is a straight up worker, it is made for the factories, it weighs about 40 lbs and no Bells or whistles, cost was around $400 which I thought was good, there is no light, no push buttons, the lever controls stitch length and forward/reverse, it is not a big machine, but I have not broken a needle yet and the walking foot it great. Consew is also made in Japan-which is a plus in my book, this is their smallest machine I believe.


IMG_7580.JPG



Here are what I used for cutouts, my templates.....The slots in the card board mark position on the canvas for the straps and pockets, see next pic, much faster than measuring each strap and pocket,

20160127_130607.jpg


20160127_161958.jpg



20160127_162006.jpg
 
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Tanker120

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I guess I need to also explain which tool rolls I am making, the first is the standard one with straps and pockets, I had to borrow the pic,

attachment.php


and the second style I will make only of few of:

5c228bf9366f03e2bb4d6532c5b382b0.jpg
 

JohnnyC

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You have a good machine ... Nothing wrong with that one... Basically a sailrite ...but ...cheaper :)

Believe it or not the medium tool roll is a more versatile tool roll

Your going to make some fantastic tool rolls!

Good job on the templates ... Looking forward to seeing more :)

Subscribed !
 
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I almost bought an industrial Consew awhile back , not sure of age but shipping weight was around 75lbs . The old model 66 Singer is a dead-on 45 lbs of cast metal and hardened internals , it will break off needles easily but never by hitting the plate . Somewhere , I had found some German made #20 needles on the net - I'll have to search them out again but they should fit fine on the shank .
Great tip on the Slant machines , never thought about that . I'm currently hunting the zigzag stitch plate for it as I only have the single hole standard plate right now for the 500A . I got the machine cheap but it was horribly gummed up with some crappy oil - had to kerosene wash the entire internals with the motor removed - the smell is finally going away after 2 months .

My one brother in law has 2 huge industrial walking foot machines that use the clutch drive motors/belts . My hands would last about 5 minutes on one - takes a lot of coordination skills to operate the foot pedal and plan where you're going and when to let off as they can coast quite a few extra stitches before stopping . He's punctured a couple of fingers and had to have a broken needle extracted once - that put him out for a solid week . He does do some nice racing leather work with repairs and such...

Have any of you used the older Toyota machines ? I can't remember the model now , but some marine sewing guys seek a certain one out for doing canvas and it does do several stitch types with a walking foot if I remember ....

Sarge
 

JohnnyC

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I have not used the toyota... however one lady in the guild had a Morse at one time... and said it was a 'wonderful' machine

'very' heavy

the Morse is Toyota

newer morse: About Us

here is a pic of the Toyota and Morse... you can find Morse machines all day long at a decent price ... there are plenty of industrial toyota as well .... i also hear GREAT things about them... heres a pic of a few as well

48_3.JPG
collect_sew_morsez1.jpg
toyota-AD158-203-II-002.jpg
ad-148.jpg
ad-252.jpg
 
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Tanker120

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You have a good machine ... Nothing wrong with that one... Basically a sailrite ...but ...cheaper :)

Believe it or not the medium tool roll is a more versatile tool roll

Your going to make some fantastic tool rolls!

Good job on the templates ... Looking forward to seeing more :)

Subscribed !
You are right, never thought of it that way, and way easier to make-lot less sewing....
 

Tanker120

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I have not used the toyota... however one lady in the guild had a Morse at one time... and said it was a 'wonderful' machine

'very' heavy

the Morse is Toyota

newer morse: About Us

here is a pic of the Toyota and Morse... you can find Morse machines all day long at a decent price ... there are plenty of industrial toyota as well .... i also hear GREAT things about them... heres a pic of a few as well

View attachment 1201668 View attachment 1201669 View attachment 1201670 View attachment 1201671 View attachment 1201672
Wow, that Toyota machine looks good, I did not know they made them, but Toyota made quite a few products over the years
 

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