Build Meet “Marge” our new Piggy

[WarDamnEagle]

75 to 79 FJ40 and FJ55 models (North American models). Same part number for both:

17751	INLET, AIR CLEANER, NO.1
17751-61010

Edit: City Racer sells the rubber accordion duct.

 

[jestlurnin]

Massive thank you to @MacDaddyRabbit for shipping me the accelerator linkage I needed to get everything hooked up. Here is a side by side of the rod I had VS the one Macdaddyrabbit sent. Got everything hooked up and the pedal depresses like a hot knife through butter!! Such a good feeling. Also a glamor shot of it all hooked up. I do have questions regarding some hook ups or non hooks ups with the city racer desmog carb. Will post up next.

 

[jestlurnin]

I need help with what I believe is the idle solenoid on the city racer carb. It has a black spade connection. The green connection in the photo is the only one I can find under the hood that looks like it would connect. The wire is white with no stripe. There is another green connection upstream that has a red wire (no stripe) and what I believe is the same white wire running into it. Following the wire all the way back it disappears into the cab through the main electrical portal under the dash to the left of the steering wheel.

Do I have the correct connection?

 

[jestlurnin]

Next question….this tube coming coming off the valve cover in the photo below. If I’m not mistaken it usually attaches to the carb??? If I am remembering this correctly and not missing an attachment on the city racer carb what do I do with it? Just cap it?

 

[jestlurnin]

Next question: I know I’m being lazy and just asking all these questions but I’ll do some homework tonight as well.

Is there meant to be a spring between these to flanges I’m pointing to on the back of the carb? I bought one and threw it on there as I’m 50% certain there needs to be a spring there. See second photo.

 

[jestlurnin]

So to recap today,
City racer carb and linkage successfully installed. Almost…thank you Macdaddyrabbit
OEM fuel line installed from pump to carb (had to remove alternator bracket for that ) had a complete set up (2 tubes but realized the second tube isn’t needed on the city racer carb. Saved it for the Jim C carb when it comes back)
Fuel filter changed (I believe it’s a non OEM setup, more questions/posts to follow.)
All hoses hooked back up, PCV, brake booster to manifold, distributor vac advance to carb, etc.
Then I really went down the rabbit hole and started on the floor Plan is for rust converter and a rattle can finish. JUST GET IT READY FOR CAMPING!!
I’m probably leaving something out that I did but overall a great day of wrenching!

 

[jestlurnin]

Can someone post up a picture of a 78’ (Nov 77’) OEM fuel filter setup?

I feel like the bracket I’m pointing to in this photo has something to do with the OEM filter. Currently I have an inline filter after the hard line ends and before the pump. Forgot to snap a picture of that before the end of the wrenching day.

 

[MacDaddyRabbit]

Next question….this tube coming coming off the valve cover in the photo below. If I’m not mistaken it usually attaches to the carb??? If I am remembering this correctly and not missing an attachment on the city racer carb what do I do with it? Just cap it?View attachment 2966367

TO the breather

 

[MacDaddyRabbit]

Next question: I know I’m being lazy and just asking all these questions but I’ll do some homework tonight as well.

Is there meant to be a spring between these to flanges I’m pointing to on the back of the carb? I bought one and threw it on there as I’m 50% certain there needs to be a spring there. See second photo.View attachment 2966371View attachment 2966373

Yes

Can someone post up a picture of a 78’ (Nov 77’) OEM fuel filter setup?

I feel like the bracket I’m pointing to in this photo has something to do with the OEM filter. Currently I have an inline filter after the hard line ends and before the pump. Forgot to snap a picture of that before the end of the wrenching day.View attachment 2966414

that's not for the fuel filter.. Fuel filters were located prior to the fuel pump.. my 77's are located on the frame near the brake lines. if the current filter is metal (OEM were) with a circular bracket that allows it to be bolted to the frame, and it's currently located between the hardline and the pump, my thought is it's in the correct location... I think that bracket was for the return hard line from the carb back to the tank... not certain on that...

 

[jestlurnin]

Got a little more time in on Marge today. Got the rear heater out and started cleaning up the floor. Dry ice worked like a charm on the remaining sound deadening. I used the permatex rust converter. It seemed to be working OK but I was a bit underwhelmed. Maybe I need to wire brush the rusty areas a bit heavier prior to application? If anyone has any tips on using the rust converter I’m all ears. It’s supposed to turn black when it’s converted but only some of the least rusty portions of the floor turned black.

 

[jestlurnin]

Can someone enlighten me on how the cover for the rear heater is meant to attach? Some PO of Marge drilled 4 holes in each corner of the cover and put long bolts all the way through the floor and double nutted them under her . I’m pretty sure this isn’t OEM

 

[jestlurnin]

Lastly confirmed my choke cable has been cut under the dash….I’ll be posting in the classifieds for a new one. Why couldn’t the person that put the Webber carb on have just wound it up and zip tied it!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Mine has tabs that fold over....

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Try Corroseal. I think it’s one of the best rust converters available and it’s very user friendly.

 

[jestlurnin]

Thanks @WarDamnEagle I’ll order some up.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Try Corroseal. I think it’s one of the best rust converters available and it’s very user friendly.

You may also have better results getting more of the loose rust off first based on my experience at least.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

You may also have better results getting more of the loose rust off first based on my experience at least.

Absolutely have to do some prep work to remove anything loose.

 

[jestlurnin]

I brushed the heck outa all the rusty spots with a really stiff wire brush. I may switch to a wire wheel type doodad that I can put on a grinder or drill. I didn’t want to go that route as I went completely through the metal on my old 40 using power to remove rust. I guess I’ll just gently use power if that’s possible.

Thanks for all the tips gents. When you are in the sh*t sometimes you get tunnel vision.

 

[Megadoomer]

Yes Coroseal is very good. I even put it in a spray bottle to get it in areas you cant brush.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Can someone post up a picture of a 78’ (Nov 77’) OEM fuel filter setup?

I feel like the bracket I’m pointing to in this photo has something to do with the OEM filter. Currently I have an inline filter after the hard line ends and before the pump. Forgot to snap a picture of that before the end of the wrenching day.View attachment 2966414

thats the fuel line return / supply support bracket