Build Live in Texas, drive a pickup: HDJ79 single cab build
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- #202
@c2dfj45 One thing I noticed from your picture above, as well as parts of the current 79 brake booster is that the pushrod appears much longer. I assume that you have a new style brake pedal as well. I wonder if I will need a longer pushrod master cylinder?
Will obtain booster and gaskets and see...
Will obtain booster and gaskets and see...
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- #203
I do have to say though, it’s discoveries like these that make projects like this both fun and maddening at the same time. Just when you think you’ve got everything in line...it’s all going to work...things are coming together....and boom, three new problems arise.
Part of the fun. But at least I have three pedals in the cab.
Part of the fun. But at least I have three pedals in the cab.
Why not run an 80 booster since you have 80 series brakes?
My current booster is from the 14 HZJ76....pedal, bracket, booster, etc.
My #1 used the 80 master and booster and probably a pedal box from a mine truck as those were easy to get. The pedal was a stock 3 pedal assembly that we welded the 80s longer auto pedal pad to as #1 is an auto.
On number one, I cut back the flange on the firewall to mount the 80 booster. Dumb move requiring too much work. Would have built a spacer and then adjusted rod length. I never realized there were spacers....I kind of kick myself over that. I must have had some kind of desire to weld that day or something.
I wanted to run the complete 80 series brake system with ABS on my truck which is why I was dead set on running all of the 80s stuff. No regrets either...it stops exceptionally well. I think we even made the ABS light work and made a custom icon on the dash for it.
My #1 used the 80 master and booster and probably a pedal box from a mine truck as those were easy to get. The pedal was a stock 3 pedal assembly that we welded the 80s longer auto pedal pad to as #1 is an auto.
On number one, I cut back the flange on the firewall to mount the 80 booster. Dumb move requiring too much work. Would have built a spacer and then adjusted rod length. I never realized there were spacers....I kind of kick myself over that. I must have had some kind of desire to weld that day or something.
I wanted to run the complete 80 series brake system with ABS on my truck which is why I was dead set on running all of the 80s stuff. No regrets either...it stops exceptionally well. I think we even made the ABS light work and made a custom icon on the dash for it.
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- #206
Back to FT block cleanup. I wire brushed and wire wheeled the crap out of this side of the block. I’ve never painted a block before, so I’m trying to know when ‘good enough’ is for surface prep. I think it’s here. I’m down to bare metal as far as I can tell. Time to mask this half.
That looks pretty clean. There is still rust there but that is common. I think it would be a good idea to use at least an etching primer first. It has phosphoric acid in it and will create an iron phosphate barrier as it dries. That will help shut down future oxidation of the metal. 2k epoxy primer would help too. It would help encapsulate the rust and create an O2 barrier. No O2, no rust. Then just do a ton of coats of paint for more O2 barrier (and prettier).
Had good luck with Phosphoric Acid or POR Metal Prep for 30 mins, rinse and then 2k Epoxy Primer (Napa sells 2k epoxy spray cans). Not a fan of POR, but their engine enamel is really tough as a topcoat. Be sure to cover all mating surfaces with duct tape as nether products come off easily.
Might be a good idea to pull and test the head while in that deep.
Might be a good idea to pull and test the head while in that deep.
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- #209
I have a KBS Motor Coater kit.It’s a 3 stage kit. It has a degreaser, zinc phosphate deposition/ (rust blaster! Bam!), and enamel.
I thought long and hard about taking everything apart, but it looks so clean that I am just going to put it back together from here.
I thought long and hard about taking everything apart, but it looks so clean that I am just going to put it back together from here.
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- #210
Taping is really satisfying my OCD.
That's a cool kit.
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- #212
I hope it works out. It specifically says that you don’t need to get ALL the surface rust.
I wonder if I should tape a quarter over the injector port....it just fits so well. Might reinforce the tape coverup.
I wonder if I should tape a quarter over the injector port....it just fits so well. Might reinforce the tape coverup.
Dr G, I used navel jelly applied to a scotch bright to rub any apparent rust I could see with the naked eye when I repainted the floor boards of the 40 when I did my clutch deep dive. Apply and work it a minute or two then come back over it with a damp cloth after 10 minutes or so to clean it off. I primed with self etching before painting.
Great work, I need to swing by and check this thing out!
Great work, I need to swing by and check this thing out!
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- #215
Except NOT RED.
I’m a wuss.
I’m a wuss.
I think the kit was pretty well sorted and the cleaner and rust blast did a great job getting the engine ready for paint (see my non-OCD masking job). The paint is holding up great!
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- #217
Dave, I shoulda gone red. I'm such an engine block traditionalist.
Today I heard from Pacific Fuel Injection in Portland. My FT injection pump got there safely and will only need a basic rebuild. $695 for a complete rebuild with a cold start delete is amazing; I had heard quotes from $1500-$5000. However, the injectors were more expensive to rebuild due to the double springs in the FT injectors, so at roughly $125 to rebuild versus $225 to buy new....I sucked it up and bought new. I'll keep the old ones as spares. Ugh. That hurt.
Today I heard from Pacific Fuel Injection in Portland. My FT injection pump got there safely and will only need a basic rebuild. $695 for a complete rebuild with a cold start delete is amazing; I had heard quotes from $1500-$5000. However, the injectors were more expensive to rebuild due to the double springs in the FT injectors, so at roughly $125 to rebuild versus $225 to buy new....I sucked it up and bought new. I'll keep the old ones as spares. Ugh. That hurt.
FYI. I use foam ear protectors in all the threaded holes when I do blocks. Not sure if you want to tape off the entire flush surface on some of those spots.
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- #219
@2fpower that is a hot tip. Time to go raid the earplug container.
All of the taped holes except two on the intake side are mating surfaces for brackets, oil cooler, sensors, or lines.
The exhaust side has a lot more threaded holes that I’ll fill with earplugs.
I just have that side left to do tomorrow, then it’s on to clean, prime, and paint.
All of the taped holes except two on the intake side are mating surfaces for brackets, oil cooler, sensors, or lines.
The exhaust side has a lot more threaded holes that I’ll fill with earplugs.
I just have that side left to do tomorrow, then it’s on to clean, prime, and paint.
You rotary pump dudes have it made when it comes to rebuilds. Inline pumps not fun to hear quotes.