2nd this.
Idiots Guide to Holley Sniper Install
- Thread starter BenjaminCA
- Start date
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There’s a $15 throttle extension from holley that helps the throttle feel.
I’m using that, and it definitely helped a lot. But, I still think it could be better. Maybe.
I did not see any new video,... BenjaminCA are you okay? Miss your new episodes..
How have I missed this? Everything in one place. Dang!
Maybe give this one a try. Mounts the same as the one included in the Mosley kit.
Lokar SRK-4000 Stainless Steel Carburetor Bracket and Spring Amazon product ASIN B000COMNMW
I did that bracket with a 24" cable, but I did need to nibble off one corner a bit to clear the 2300.
Amazon product ASIN B000N26284
Geometry worked out with the factory pedal - drill out the ball end on the pedal and use the clevis there, and the ball end linkage goes on the Sniper. The pedal throw matches the throttle throw on the Sniper - no complaints on throttle feel or throw.
EDIT: Added the old trace I had of the firewall bracket - just bend into a 90, and I used one of the triangles as a gusset to stiffen the bend. Measuring tape for reference if anyone decides to do something similar.
Install info back on post 32.
Amazon product ASIN B000N26284
Geometry worked out with the factory pedal - drill out the ball end on the pedal and use the clevis there, and the ball end linkage goes on the Sniper. The pedal throw matches the throttle throw on the Sniper - no complaints on throttle feel or throw.
EDIT: Added the old trace I had of the firewall bracket - just bend into a 90, and I used one of the triangles as a gusset to stiffen the bend. Measuring tape for reference if anyone decides to do something similar.
Install info back on post 32.
Last edited:
I did that bracket with a 24" cable, but I did need to nibble off one corner a bit to clear the 2300.
Amazon product ASIN B000N26284
Geometry worked out with the factory pedal - drill out the ball end on the pedal and use the clevis there, and the ball end linkage goes on the Sniper. The pedal throw matches the throttle throw on the Sniper - no complaints on throttle feel or throw.
EDIT: Added the old trace I had of the firewall bracket - just bend into a 90, and I used one of the triangles as a gusset to stiffen the bend. Measuring tape for reference if anyone decides to do something similar.
View attachment 2805951
I caved and paid the $26 for redlines firewall bracket.
I did that bracket with a 24" cable, but I did need to nibble off one corner a bit to clear the 2300.
Amazon product ASIN B000N26284
Geometry worked out with the factory pedal - drill out the ball end on the pedal and use the clevis there, and the ball end linkage goes on the Sniper. The pedal throw matches the throttle throw on the Sniper - no complaints on throttle feel or throw.
EDIT: Added the old trace I had of the firewall bracket - just bend into a 90, and I used one of the triangles as a gusset to stiffen the bend. Measuring tape for reference if anyone decides to do something similar.
View attachment 2805951
It’s interesting that the shorter cables are more expensive than the 36”. You can easily dismantle the longer cables and shorten them. I never noticed that they make generic cables now. Tempting….
I did that bracket with a 24" cable, but I did need to nibble off one corner a bit to clear the 2300.
Amazon product ASIN B000N26284
Geometry worked out with the factory pedal - drill out the ball end on the pedal and use the clevis there, and the ball end linkage goes on the Sniper. The pedal throw matches the throttle throw on the Sniper - no complaints on throttle feel or throw.
EDIT: Added the old trace I had of the firewall bracket - just bend into a 90, and I used one of the triangles as a gusset to stiffen the bend. Measuring tape for reference if anyone decides to do something similar.
View attachment 2805951
Did your bracket come in that kit? If so that’s a great deal.
Yeah, came as the 24" cable and the bracket together. Bracket base needed a tweak to fit the 2300 and the springs needed trimming, but the 24" worked well with a rear mount setup.
wondering if you can share how you modified the hyperspark? how did it work out?
I'm happy with mine - runs good and lights off quickly. I might try to find a dyno sometime next summer after I've got a few miles on the rebuild and the clutch to see if the timing curve needs any improvement, but I think I did fairly well at matching the factory curve for now. If you do a bit of work on the Holley loom to pull it apart and slim it down, it's actually a pretty darn clean install...I doubt many would catch that's it's not original at first look. I opted to tuck the CDI box in the glove compartment where the OEM speaker went, and the dizzy is the same smaller size as factory (vs the large-cap variants):
Most of the nuggets are in this old thread, although I slightly misspoke - at the time, they didn't have the Chevy I6 variant, only the Jeep 258, and I used the Jeep one. From what my MkI eyeballs see, neither is likely "correct" out of the box anyway, but without having mitts on the Chevy flavor, it's just a guess from what I can see.
For the Jeep one, the distance from the tang to the gear is correct, but the gear-to-deck distance is too short. I opted to push it down with a machined spacer and shifting the rotor plate up (in that thread), but one could also shave off the mounting lip and use a collar on the distributor. The inner shaft was also a few thou' too large to fit the 2F gear and oil pump, so the lower needed just a touch shaved off.
From what I can see...the Chevy version has a longer tang, which is likely wrong...so the gear would likely need to get pushed lower and the same spacer type deal needed...but without one in hand, I can't say for certain. Seems like a hedge between relocating the rotor disk (Jeep variant) or relocating the dizzy gear (Chevy variant)...neither is too difficult as there's no "moving parts" like a normal advancing dizzy.
I had one hiccup where the hall effect sensor failed, but I think that was a voltage spike from the regulator going wonky. If you go the CDI/HS route, I'd get the inline capacitor to start, as the HS CDI box does seem to tickle the regulator in an odd way. Because of that, I did end up with a spare Jeep 258 flavor on the shelf (unmodified), but I don't have any 2F dizzy gears to install. Some of the HEI variants come with this double-ended gear...if anyone knows where to track that down, I think it'd be the ticket to try modifying another one - that's darn close to what I needed on the Jeep flavor. Any ideas?
Most of the nuggets are in this old thread, although I slightly misspoke - at the time, they didn't have the Chevy I6 variant, only the Jeep 258, and I used the Jeep one. From what my MkI eyeballs see, neither is likely "correct" out of the box anyway, but without having mitts on the Chevy flavor, it's just a guess from what I can see.
For the Jeep one, the distance from the tang to the gear is correct, but the gear-to-deck distance is too short. I opted to push it down with a machined spacer and shifting the rotor plate up (in that thread), but one could also shave off the mounting lip and use a collar on the distributor. The inner shaft was also a few thou' too large to fit the 2F gear and oil pump, so the lower needed just a touch shaved off.
From what I can see...the Chevy version has a longer tang, which is likely wrong...so the gear would likely need to get pushed lower and the same spacer type deal needed...but without one in hand, I can't say for certain. Seems like a hedge between relocating the rotor disk (Jeep variant) or relocating the dizzy gear (Chevy variant)...neither is too difficult as there's no "moving parts" like a normal advancing dizzy.
I had one hiccup where the hall effect sensor failed, but I think that was a voltage spike from the regulator going wonky. If you go the CDI/HS route, I'd get the inline capacitor to start, as the HS CDI box does seem to tickle the regulator in an odd way. Because of that, I did end up with a spare Jeep 258 flavor on the shelf (unmodified), but I don't have any 2F dizzy gears to install. Some of the HEI variants come with this double-ended gear...if anyone knows where to track that down, I think it'd be the ticket to try modifying another one - that's darn close to what I needed on the Jeep flavor. Any ideas?
StinkyPig
SILVER Star
I have been installing the Sniper on my 1978. Right now I'm playing with the throttle cable and different mounts. But...Has anyone had an issue with the throttle cable where it attaches on the throttle arm interfering with the brake master cylinder sensor?
I have drums on the rear and disks on the front and the brake booster appears to be REALLY big. It sits far enough forward that the throttle arm cant swing without hitting the rear sensor.
Sucks but I may have to reconfigure the Master cyl and booster...
I have drums on the rear and disks on the front and the brake booster appears to be REALLY big. It sits far enough forward that the throttle arm cant swing without hitting the rear sensor.
Sucks but I may have to reconfigure the Master cyl and booster...
GA Architect
SILVER Star
May want to post up a pic of your situation. Your '78 should be similar to my '77, and I had no issues with the large OEM brake booster.
I ran my cable toward the firewall, and it cleared just fine on my '76 as well - perhaps it's an oddball booster?
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Idiots Guide to Holley Sniper Install
forum.ih8mud.com
StinkyPig
SILVER Star
Yeah that is not a standard booster, pushed out really far from the firewall
Those big goofy boosters are OEM. Just pulled one from a 74
