Idiots Guide to Holley Sniper Install

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1911 said:
My (12/79 build) 1980 had a stock booster just like that. When it finally failed, I replaced it with a City Racer unit; quality, but much shorter.

Dual Diaphragm Disc Brake Booster for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ55 FJ60 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/new-dual-diaphragm-disc-brake-booster-for-land-cruiser-fj40-fj55-fj60
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Thank you for confirming my suspicions. City Racer has a new order to fill.
and @BenjaminCA, thank you for digitizing to the University of YouTube…how it really is for most of us.
 
StinkyPig said:
Thank you for confirming my suspicions. City Racer has a new order to fill.
and @BenjaminCA, thank you for digitizing to the University of YouTube…how it really is for most of us.
Click to expand...
Get a non ABS 80 master to go with it
 
StinkyPig said:
Thank you for confirming my suspicions. City Racer has a new order to fill.
Click to expand...

There are some instructions on the City Racer web site (at the same link that I gave previously) on how to remove the stock monstrosity; you will need them to get the old booster off without removing the carb.

Also, be aware that your brake lines to the master cylinder will not bolt right back up with the new booster, because the master cyl. will be closer to the firewall now. You can bend them carefully (don't kink them), but since you are doing that anyway, you might as well go with the FZJ80 non-ABS master like @wngrog said. Especially if you are ever considering putting disc brakes on the rear axle. That master has the lines attach on the side not the top though, so then you will be into cutting, flaring, and bending the brake lines to suit, just so you know. A rabbit hole worth going down in my opinion but YMMV.
 
StinkyPig said:
@GA Architect
thanks for that pic. Here mine…and yes maybe my booster is weird?View attachment 2857463View attachment 2857466View attachment 2857467
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Hmmm....I have the same brake booster and master cylinder, and no issues.

1638840352139.png


Stinky - Take a pic at the same angle as mine and get the entire carb & brake master cylinder. Let's see what the orientation is with that RedLine adapter.
 
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GA, yours definitely sits lower than mine.
chupa, rabbit holes I know….thank you!
0B1C8687-F01E-4F3E-951D-095BF951AED6.jpeg
 
Hard to beat surgical clamps and dental picks for that matter!
 
I'm thinking, hard to tell from pics, GA has the heat shield plenum or what ever its called that gives him a little lift.
Have you mounted your Air Cleaner yet to check fit?
 
Shark56 said:
I'm thinking, hard to tell from pics, GA has the heat shield plenum or what ever its called that gives him a little lift.
Have you mounted your Air Cleaner yet to check fit?
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Yes. Lots of room.
 
StinkyPig said:
GA, yours definitely sits lower than mine.
chupa, rabbit holes I know….thank you!
View attachment 2857761
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I was looking at my throttle cable setup vs yours, and mine pulls from the front so my Sniper linkage is on the lower hole of the linkage. Yours pulls from the rear and uses the upper hole on the Sniper throttle linkage.....If I were to set mine up that same as yours, I'd probably be very close to the brake sensors as well.
 
There are some instructions on the City Racer web site (at the same link that I gave previously) on how to remove the stock monstrosity; you will need them to get the old booster off without removing the carb.
1911 said:
Also, be aware that your brake lines to the master cylinder will not bolt right back up with the new booster, because the master cyl. will be closer to the firewall now. You can bend them carefully (don't kink them), but since you are doing that anyway, you might as well go with the FZJ80 non-ABS master like @wngrog said. Especially if you are ever considering putting disc brakes on the rear axle. That master has the lines attach on the side not the top though, so then you will be into cutting, flaring, and bending the brake lines to suit, just so you know. A rabbit hole worth going down in my opinion but YMMV.
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The more I look down this "rabbit hole" the more it makes sense.
The monstrosity that is in place is big and ugly and I could use the space anyway. So I have ordered an 80 M/C from City Racer as well.
After that is in situ I will go back to work on the throttle cable....
Really appreciate the help!
 
StinkyPig said:
There are some instructions on the City Racer web site (at the same link that I gave previously) on how to remove the stock monstrosity; you will need them to get the old booster off without removing the carb.

The more I look down this "rabbit hole" the more it makes sense.
The monstrosity that is in place is big and ugly and I could use the space anyway. So I have ordered an 80 M/C from City Racer as well.
After that is in situ I will go back to work on the throttle cable....
Really appreciate the help!
Click to expand...
Be sure to take many pics of your process & progress. The large OEM brake boosters (like yours and mine) are no longer serviceable, so when they go, THEY GO. Thus the logical replacement option is the City Racer LLC booster and the 80MC.
 
Does anyone know what size the 80 brake line and fittings are?
10MM fittings and 3/16" line?
 
Updated images regarding my Sniper throttle cable interference issues, brake booster comparisons and some better throttle cable mounting and routing images.
City Racer brake booster and master cylinder saved the day....lots of room now.
I tried the Mosely bracket set-up from the front of the TB and I could not get the cable to adjust for both full open and closed positions. Conversely, the Red Line brackets, from the rear, allowed perfect throttle plate positioning with very little adjustment. The only thing I had to modify to make it work was the rubber stop on the throttle pedal...this was removed all is well. I also built a small aluminum spacer the move the intake manifold bracket outboard 1/2" which allowed for better geometry.
A BIG thank you to you guys and City Racer for the parts!
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GA Architect said:
Brother, next time you need to remove wires from connectors, please use a terminal removal tool. As for the non used 10 pin connector, on the separate connector end, remove all wires using a terminal removal tool, then reinstall plugs into all 10 locations (see orange items in photo below). Then install this connector onto the Sniper harness, now you have a weather tight connection. Thus no moisture can mess with the unused wires.



View attachment 2705340
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I may have missed it, but any source for just the orange plugs? I’ve been searching with no luck unless in a kit. I have a tool already.
 
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