Idiots Guide to Holley Sniper Install

[Jakes40]

I did mine myself (I do everything myself that’s how I learn) there are some things I need to change. I used a surge tank and would suggest not to they cause the fuel to heat up after a day of wheeling. Caused my pump to loose pressure.
I have to trace down a vacuum leak it is causing it to run rich and load up.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Looking forward to getting my Sniper on, but knocking out my bodywork at the moment...it'll be nice to work on the install without the clip in the way, though. Hopefully it'll be in just a few weeks though...tub should be coming off for paint this week. I won't know for sure until I really dig in, but I, er, "customized" the Hyperspark distributor to fit the 2F, so that'll be interesting to see how that plays out. Having the timing controlled by the Holley should be nice, in theory.

And agreed, you just need to jump in and learn as you go...it's like the "how do you eat an elephant?" joke...one bite at a time. And you definitely don't need a super-shop...I was using castoff chipper blades and outboard driveshafts as my metalworking shaping tools, and they did the deed.

It's funny watching Dennis Taylor (he does very nice fabrication for drag cars) - he's got a great shop, but half the time he'll use whatever's around to get the job done, like a bucket to get a radius, etc...interesting fellow. Very much in that "learn as you go/intuition based" mindset.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Random side note - I wonder if there's any value/opp to share any tuning files for the Sniper for those that have gotten it really dialed in? Obviously haven't played with mine yet, but seems like one should be able to backup/export a "good" tune.

 

[wngrog]

Brother, next time you need to remove wires from connectors, please use a terminal removal tool. As for the non used 10 pin connector, on the separate connector end, remove all wires using a terminal removal tool, then reinstall plugs into all 10 locations (see orange items in photo below). Then install this connector onto the Sniper harness, now you have a weather tight connection. Thus no moisture can mess with the unused wires.



View attachment 2705340

That’s pretty hard core

 

[wngrog]

Random side note - I wonder if there's any value/opp to share any tuning files for the Sniper for those that have gotten it really dialed in? Obviously haven't played with mine yet, but seems like one should be able to backup/export a "good" tune.

They are pretty much good to go on most vehicles right out of the box. I don’t do much tuning. Most times I find problems is with the old parts on the truck, not the Sniper

 

[zerotreedelta]

I'm probably in the minority with the timing control - adds an extra dimension of tuning there. I know there's a few threads around tuning for off-idle/stalling as well - certain settings help there.

 

[wngrog]

I'm probably in the minority with the timing control - adds an extra dimension of tuning there. I know there's a few threads around tuning for off-idle/stalling as well - certain settings help there.

Have you found a 2F distributor to use for Sniper use that is electronic?

I known Mallory made one that goes with a huge ignition box.

All too complicated for a 2F when vacuum advance works just fine.

 

[zerotreedelta]

I modified the Chevy I6 Hyperspark to fit the 2F - no boxes, should be plug and play.

 

[BenjaminCA]

Here’s Step 4: Included is some gas pedal and throttle linkage trouble shooting. Amongst other garbage.

 

[85roktoy]

Looking hard at the sniper kit but have MSD electronic ignition already. Should I be ok running this along with the sniper kit?

 

[wngrog]

Looking hard at the sniper kit but have MSD electronic ignition already. Should I be ok running this along with the sniper kit?

Yeah.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Yet another means to do the throttle cable linkage - didn't want to drill the firewall if possible, and wanted to avoid modifying the pedal as well.

Using some longer bolts, you can mount a bracket on the engine side of the firewall - the pedal bolts can act as studs, somewhat. You could almost use a carb-side linkage on the pedal, but the ball was slightly too large. I drilled out the ball link on the pedal, then just used the included clevis link. I ended up adding a gusset to the brontosaurus looking bracket after these photos just to take out a bit of flex, but otherwise works good. Full travel at the pedal is full travel at the Holley, very convenient.

Just a 24" Lokar cable, and their typical bracket up top.

 

[wngrog]

Yet another means to do the throttle cable linkage - didn't want to drill the firewall if possible, and wanted to avoid modifying the pedal as well.

Using some longer bolts, you can mount a bracket on the engine side of the firewall - the pedal bolts can act as studs, somewhat. You could almost use a carb-side linkage on the pedal, but the ball was slightly too large. I drilled out the ball link on the pedal, then just used the included clevis link. I ended up adding a gusset to the brontosaurus looking bracket after these photos just to take out a bit of flex, but otherwise works good. Full travel at the pedal is full travel at the Holley, very convenient.

Just a 24" Lokar cable, and their typical bracket up top.

View attachment 2772994

View attachment 2772996

View attachment 2772995

Nice.

 

[GA Architect]

Yet another means to do the throttle cable linkage - didn't want to drill the firewall if possible, and wanted to avoid modifying the pedal as well.

Using some longer bolts, you can mount a bracket on the engine side of the firewall - the pedal bolts can act as studs, somewhat. You could almost use a carb-side linkage on the pedal, but the ball was slightly too large. I drilled out the ball link on the pedal, then just used the included clevis link. I ended up adding a gusset to the brontosaurus looking bracket after these photos just to take out a bit of flex, but otherwise works good. Full travel at the pedal is full travel at the Holley, very convenient.

Just a 24" Lokar cable, and their typical bracket up top.

View attachment 2772994

View attachment 2772996

View attachment 2772995

Well done! My first fire wall bracket design was very similar to this....Nice work. On the bracket at the crab, which one did you use? Also, does the 24" cable operate smooth?

I've never been a big fan of my throttle cable working from the front side. Off & on, I have been looking for a rear mounted bracket that would work with the Sniper linkage & my gas pedal bracket (similar to yours).

 

[wngrog]

You know a Toyota cable and an early pedal will pull direct from the firewall. Pre linkage.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Indeed, I just wanted to avoid firewall modifications, and I had the original '76 pedal.

I've generally been trying to make it as easy as possible to undo the Sniper install and go back to the carb and smog equipment if needed as well.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Well done! My first fire wall bracket design was very similar to this....Nice work. On the bracket at the crab, which one did you use? Also, does the 24" cable operate smooth?

I've never been a big fan of my throttle cable working from the front side. Off & on, I have been looking for a rear mounted bracket that would work with the Sniper linkage & my gas pedal bracket (similar to yours).

@GA Architect , waited to reply until the gusseted bracket was in. Cable is smooth, but I was pretty careful to keep the angles pretty straight on each end to avoid any binding.

Bracket is also a Lokar, supposedly for the Sniper, but I think it's for the 4-barrel version. I did need to tweak the mount and trim the springs...so I'd probably just make my own at that point if I did it again.

Which cable are you running?

 

[GA Architect]

Which cable are you running?

My kit came with the 36" Lokar throttle cable. I've been researching the 'Red Line' throttle cable brackets, click here & click here.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Interesting...look pretty similar to my setup and seem like decent brackets.

Wonder why they do the 36" cable - the 24 was plenty, and really could've been trimmed a bit but I didn't feel like cutting that braised housing for just a couple inches.

 

[brian az]

My kit came with the 36" Lokar throttle cable. I've been researching the 'Red Line' throttle cable brackets, click here & click here.

I’m using the Red Line manifold bracket on my 60. See post here. I don’t love the way the pedal feels. I sort of think that, with the manifold bracket being so low, the angle of the cable is too steep. I might try a bracket like the Lokar one @zerotreedelta is using the photo above. It seems like that would give more leverage and make the pedal smoother.