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- Thread starter
- #262
One thing I've been spending time researching recently is a very meaty topic - which sound deadening and temperature reducing materials should I put into the truck. I realize I have a fairly expansive canvas to play with since I've disassembled pretty much everything.
There seem to be a few different schools of thought.
Also, how far do you go... Doors , transmission hump, rear bench area, cargo area, rear cargo panels, tailgate. Some people are putting stuff inside of their engine bay on the firewall... Some are replacing the Hood Insulator.
I've looked at the pricing for some of these and it looks like you could easily spend $3k if you wanted to go over the top with everything. Considering that an LC is not a small car, you need a lot of material.
I am considering that a budget for this of $1,000 might be way over kill. But I've already got the carpet kit ready to install, I am almost done with my interior welding and I think my truck wants the interior to be completed sooner than NEVER.
Thoughts? Experience with spray on, like Lizard Skin? Does it actually reduce the sound and heat that much to be worth while?
There seem to be a few different schools of thought.
- These are old trucks and noisy. Why bother...
- You can put down something like Noico/Kilmat (80-mil) and call it a day)
- You can put down a Noico layer and then MLV (mass loaded vinyl) on top of that so that you get sound and heat reduction.
- Go with a spray on version of the above like Lizard Skin or Second Skin along with a ceramic layer for heat reduction
- Some combination of all of the above
Also, how far do you go... Doors , transmission hump, rear bench area, cargo area, rear cargo panels, tailgate. Some people are putting stuff inside of their engine bay on the firewall... Some are replacing the Hood Insulator.
I've looked at the pricing for some of these and it looks like you could easily spend $3k if you wanted to go over the top with everything. Considering that an LC is not a small car, you need a lot of material.
I am considering that a budget for this of $1,000 might be way over kill. But I've already got the carpet kit ready to install, I am almost done with my interior welding and I think my truck wants the interior to be completed sooner than NEVER.
Thoughts? Experience with spray on, like Lizard Skin? Does it actually reduce the sound and heat that much to be worth while?
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I’m doing mine right now. I did my cargo area years ago so I just did the whole floor and transmission tunnel, going to do the doors and 1/4’s tomorrow.
72sqft of material is a good amount.
I bought the 36sqft of Killmat and 36sqft of Noico foam liner on Amazon, two boxes of each so $200 total. If you are going to go all
The way and pull the whole dash out I’d get a third box of each and then you’ll have plenty.
I did the hood last year and couldn’t tell any difference other then that it was heavier to open.
72sqft of material is a good amount.
I bought the 36sqft of Killmat and 36sqft of Noico foam liner on Amazon, two boxes of each so $200 total. If you are going to go all
The way and pull the whole dash out I’d get a third box of each and then you’ll have plenty.
I did the hood last year and couldn’t tell any difference other then that it was heavier to open.
- Thread starter
- #264
Thanks Matt.
Which Noico and Killmat did you go with?
Dash has been out for a few weeks now, since I am swapping out all brown interior parts for blue/grey.
It always seemed like the hood was overkill.
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These were the best deal for me in terms of price/sqft and fastest delivery time (I'm in a rush to get ready for a trip currently). I'm sure you can shop around and get even better pricing but these were next-day for me.
I've worked with all the big name products, Dynamat, Thermotec, Etc in the past and they all come in big rolls, these come in smaller rectangular sections and are much easier to work with in my opinion.
Amazon product ASIN B0751CBXBT
Amazon product ASIN B07TKXMPH7
I've worked with all the big name products, Dynamat, Thermotec, Etc in the past and they all come in big rolls, these come in smaller rectangular sections and are much easier to work with in my opinion.
Amazon product ASIN B0751CBXBT
Amazon product ASIN B07TKXMPH7
- Thread starter
- #266
Thanks Matt.
Yeah there are so many options it gets a bit much. And different thicknesses to choose from.
Still need to figure what's best for the roof. Since that's going to be upside down. And don't want it to sag. There are different adhesives to play with.
I think I'm going the spray route on my truck. I used second skin on the floor years ago and it helped a bunch, so I'm going to do it again. Same with the roof.
I did not use the ceramic shield last time,but I will be using it this time.
Cruiser crap/killmat/dynamat inside the doors.
I did not use the ceramic shield last time,but I will be using it this time.
Cruiser crap/killmat/dynamat inside the doors.
- Thread starter
- #268
Been a busy last couple of weeks. All in all, making as good of progress as I can given work/kids/wife.
For the tailgate project, I've figured out the radii for the top and bottom corners. Ordered sheets of 6061 3/16" Aluminum which are in-transit now. Bought some Stainless Steel Marine grade hinges and latches. Also, was able to get the hook up through my father with a friend of his with a CNC router. So we have been working together and taking my sketchup file to get it made into something his machine can read. Bought an Amana Router bit for the cutting of the aluminum.
So this is progress in my book.
For the tailgate project, I've figured out the radii for the top and bottom corners. Ordered sheets of 6061 3/16" Aluminum which are in-transit now. Bought some Stainless Steel Marine grade hinges and latches. Also, was able to get the hook up through my father with a friend of his with a CNC router. So we have been working together and taking my sketchup file to get it made into something his machine can read. Bought an Amana Router bit for the cutting of the aluminum.
So this is progress in my book.
- Thread starter
- #269
Additionally been working through my rust work to get ready to move onto the body work. Every spare minute I can grab I am trying to do a little here and there. With no garage and working in my driveway I am limited to day hours - since I don't think my neighbors would appreciate to hear my grinding from 9pm onward...
Also decided to pull the trigger and get the windshield out tonight. I knew there was some rust, so no big surprise. I only have the Driver's side Cargo window left to take out. Surprisingly easy to do with a nice sharp razor blade. And was able to pull it by myself which was nice. Surprisingly lightweight.
Question: Before a decently cheap - like MAACO cheap $2500 paint job - is it imperative that I remove ALL of the old paint and primer ? I have a beefy Festool Rotex that will strip the paint right off. Or is the theory that since this is not a $10-20k restoration job that doing all of this extra work is probably not necessary?
All thoughts welcome - including - "you're an idiot - run away from MAACO".
Also decided to pull the trigger and get the windshield out tonight. I knew there was some rust, so no big surprise. I only have the Driver's side Cargo window left to take out. Surprisingly easy to do with a nice sharp razor blade. And was able to pull it by myself which was nice. Surprisingly lightweight.
Question: Before a decently cheap - like MAACO cheap $2500 paint job - is it imperative that I remove ALL of the old paint and primer ? I have a beefy Festool Rotex that will strip the paint right off. Or is the theory that since this is not a $10-20k restoration job that doing all of this extra work is probably not necessary?
All thoughts welcome - including - "you're an idiot - run away from MAACO".
AussieHJCruza
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Subscribed, fantastic work
Question: Before a decently cheap - like MAACO cheap $2500 paint job - is it imperative that I remove ALL of the old paint and primer ?
I would not remove the factory paint/primer down to the metal. Factory primers have the best adhesion, and if you go to bare metal and get a rock chip, rust will form and spread faster than it would over a well-prepped factory surface. A bigger problem with MAACO is the quality of the paint product, and 10 years down the road, if you decide to respray again, you WILL have to remove the crappy MAACO paint. You might be able to have MAACO shoot it, but you bring them the paint and materials, or spec out a higher quality paint product than what they would normally use. In the paint world, like everything else, you get what you pay for.
I would not remove the factory paint/primer down to the metal. Factory primers have the best adhesion, and if you go to bare metal and get a rock chip, rust will form and spread faster than it would over a well-prepped factory surface. A bigger problem with MAACO is the quality of the paint product, and 10 years down the road, if you decide to respray again, you WILL have to remove the crappy MAACO paint. You might be able to have MAACO shoot it, but you bring them the paint and materials, or spec out a higher quality paint product than what they would normally use. In the paint world, like everything else, you get what you pay for.
- Thread starter
- #272
@SteveH good advice on the paint stripping. I was most worried about my upcoming shoddy body work looking terrible if there is paint on top of it, but then factory original paint in other places. What about taking off all the clear coat? Its fade in 60% of the truck.
Speaking of 10 years down the road... Yeah, this is not a forever paint job. And also its not intended to be a showroom masterpiece. My goals with a relatively cheap paint job are to 1. Get my wife to want to drive around in it again 2. Stop any rust from creeping back 3. In 10 years my kids will not be in pre-school but public school so there should be funds in a 5-10 years from now to do this better/the right way.
Thanks for Subbing @AussieHJCruza !! I don't know what the hell I am doing most of the time - but figuring it out with a little help from my friends (on ih8mud).
Speaking of 10 years down the road... Yeah, this is not a forever paint job. And also its not intended to be a showroom masterpiece. My goals with a relatively cheap paint job are to 1. Get my wife to want to drive around in it again 2. Stop any rust from creeping back 3. In 10 years my kids will not be in pre-school but public school so there should be funds in a 5-10 years from now to do this better/the right way.
Thanks for Subbing @AussieHJCruza !! I don't know what the hell I am doing most of the time - but figuring it out with a little help from my friends (on ih8mud).
- Thread starter
- #273
Made some good progress... Probably should have just focused on figuring out and welding the wheel well - but now that I decided to pull the windshield - it would appear to be a better spot to expend some effort.
Got the windshield area cleaned up fairly well. Found there was a small hole when grinding out the old rust. No biggie. Could be much worse.
Decided that since the rust seems to be a little into the lower portion below the windshield (on both Driver and Passenger sides) that I might as well dive a little deeper into my rust woes and re-seal any of the cracked seam sealer that is probably the cause of my water leaks in the floorpan.
Spent an hour so far trying to get the Driver's Front Fender off. Only had a couple of bolts snap. I'll drill those out and get replacements soon.
Got the windshield area cleaned up fairly well. Found there was a small hole when grinding out the old rust. No biggie. Could be much worse.
Decided that since the rust seems to be a little into the lower portion below the windshield (on both Driver and Passenger sides) that I might as well dive a little deeper into my rust woes and re-seal any of the cracked seam sealer that is probably the cause of my water leaks in the floorpan.
Spent an hour so far trying to get the Driver's Front Fender off. Only had a couple of bolts snap. I'll drill those out and get replacements soon.
- Thread starter
- #274
While I try and disassemble my front fender I've been referencing this thread
I just wanted to seal a leak by @Rimmeh
I just wanted to seal a leak by @Rimmeh
- Thread starter
- #275
To take the front fender off you need crack off all of the seam sealer. Not too hard and breaks easily enough. Glad I actually did this work - since it showed me how the fender is built and attached to the inner wheel wells.
- Thread starter
- #276
The fun was seeing what was underneath the Outer Fender... yeah there is some surface rust for sure. Not too bad.
And the seam sealer is completely gone / cracked. So that is the culprit and will be my area of focus to clean up. Before moving over to the Driver's side.
Since I'd like to get the truck repainted right now is also a perfect time to do a little body work on the front fender and get it prepped for painting.
And the seam sealer is completely gone / cracked. So that is the culprit and will be my area of focus to clean up. Before moving over to the Driver's side.
Since I'd like to get the truck repainted right now is also a perfect time to do a little body work on the front fender and get it prepped for painting.
- Thread starter
- #277
Friday night I got the passenger side fender off.
Found some funky bodywork.
It's clear that this side has been worked on previously.
Cleared out a fair amount of gunk from the cowl.
Found some funky bodywork.
It's clear that this side has been worked on previously.
Cleared out a fair amount of gunk from the cowl.
- Thread starter
- #278
Frontend chassis rust
As I've started to dig deeper into getting the truck ready for bodywork - I've disassembled a majority of the frontend.
What are folks thoughts about next steps for chassis? Although I would love to do a frame-off restoration, its not very practical for me at the moment. My driveway is sloped, I don't have a garage, its going to start raining soon enough - so I need to get moving along.
BUT - I saw the state of the cross-member directly behind the front bumper (directly beneath the radiator) and it does not look too pretty.
Is this level of rust something where I need to weld on 1/4" or larger steel? Is it just a situation where I treat the rust and spray paint?
I am having trouble finding good pictures of what this section of the chassis is supposed to look like - so I can see how far gone these welds are.
Thoughts?
Obviously, I don't want to be too hasty on this section of the renovation, since this would be a critical failure on the freeway or on the trail that I would rather not experience.
As I've started to dig deeper into getting the truck ready for bodywork - I've disassembled a majority of the frontend.
What are folks thoughts about next steps for chassis? Although I would love to do a frame-off restoration, its not very practical for me at the moment. My driveway is sloped, I don't have a garage, its going to start raining soon enough - so I need to get moving along.
BUT - I saw the state of the cross-member directly behind the front bumper (directly beneath the radiator) and it does not look too pretty.
Is this level of rust something where I need to weld on 1/4" or larger steel? Is it just a situation where I treat the rust and spray paint?
I am having trouble finding good pictures of what this section of the chassis is supposed to look like - so I can see how far gone these welds are.
Thoughts?
Obviously, I don't want to be too hasty on this section of the renovation, since this would be a critical failure on the freeway or on the trail that I would rather not experience.
- Thread starter
- #279
Here is a shot from underneath.
@NeverGiveUpYota You've done some welding on the spring perches. What gauge steel did you end up using?
@NeverGiveUpYota You've done some welding on the spring perches. What gauge steel did you end up using?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
I used 1/8 plate for all the patches I’ve done on the rear frame. Sorry I don’t know the exact gauge other than that.
