Before you do anything, take that pry bar, crawl underneath and bang on the starter. Simple stuff first!
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
So I replaced the distributor a year ago and while it was only the 2nd time I ever did one, I very much was careful to make sure the gear engaged. I felt that subtle difference of making sure it seated all the way. Confirmed today nothing has moved and it's fully seated.Confirm you can turn the engine over by hand. Make sure your distributor is fully seated( will run without spinning the oil pump)
The motor won't turn. it's seized
Pulled the dipstick and it looks a little down but not crazy. Still on the dip stick for sure. I changed the oil less than 1000 miles ago right after I did the valve stem seals. Not burning oil like she used to and doesn't drip at all, but I was thinking the lowered level could be the culprit. I'll try the oil pump spin and see after I get it topped off. Not seeing anything externally on the block and as far as a thrown rod or rod bearings, I'm getting over my skis pretty quickly here! Should I pull the valve cover and take a look there?Is the oil level ok? You can pull the distributer and spin the oil pump( long slotted screwdriver chucked up in a drill) I once unseized an f engine this way and it ran fine for years after. Priming the pump gets oil back into the journal’s and will free up) now it could be a thrown rod sticking out of your engine block, spun rod bearing,etc. process of elimination. I would pull the distributer and check the end of it and make sure the tip that engages the oil pump didn't fail?
Is the oil level ok? You can pull the distributer and spin the oil pump( long slotted screwdriver chucked up in a drill) I once unseized an f engine this way and it ran fine for years after. Priming the pump gets oil back into the journal’s and will free up) now it could be a thrown rod sticking out of your engine block, spun rod bearing,etc. process of elimination. I would pull the distributer and check the end of it and make sure the tip that engages the oil pump didnt fail?
That's one thing I can confirmIs it out of gear?
Thought about trying that to see if it'll move at all but there's this one way connector thingy on the end of the pulley that lets you stick a pry bar on it but only for a clockwise turn. It's rounded so you can't spin it the other way. Gotta get under there and pull the skid plate to see if I can get at it from below. I think my plastic 6 or 7 fin fan blade and shroud make it so I'll have to pull the radiator to get a wrench on there to try to go the other way on it.You tried spinning it both ways?
Read a thread last night where you helped a guy about 10 years ago on an old orange 40 that sat for years, where the oil pump spin with a drill trick worked! Praying for a similar miracle here!Put it in 4th gear and rock it back and forth to see if the engine will break free( helps to have s little man power) If it will spin counter clockwise, that usually means rod failure.
As far as the dizzy goes, I put in a brand new OEM vacuum advance unit from Mark's Offroad right after I bought the truck last summer. Seems like an unlikely culprit to be the failure point, but you never knowI would confirm dist is ok, and get a drill to see if you can get some oil pressure, this will confirm if it was an oiling issue( not likely the pistons are seized. When the crank bearings lock up its game over. I once had a 6 foot cheater bar on a crank and could hang from it!!!