middlecalf
SILVER Star
No spot welding on those panels? Is this construction different than the SWB beds? Mark do you have any info/picts on that? PM me if you’d like. Paul
Builds Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB (22 Viewers)
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I'm glad you're using it and fixing all the little things that bugged me. I could really only work on the stuff that I could convince Tom to pay for parts. I'm jealous of that highway video. I never got it above 30. Since I was driving it around town I was worried about not having any lights working. I got as far as getting the brake lights to work (note the ghetto ground wires I added).
Paul, Here's the 64 SWB FJ45P.
- Thread starter
- #184
It’s funny, they brake lights we’re staying on for Tom and he was unhooking the battery.
The spring was gone on the pedal so I thought I fixed it.
Now they don’t work at all. Maybe the ghetto ground came off. I’ve not even started that rabbit hole until I get the new fender junction panels.
I’ll have a @beno box this evening to play with this weekend. Hopefully my @cruiseroutfit hoses arrive too.
Can someone take a picture of the hoses coming off the bottom of the water pump to the heater and radiator for me?
Mine is not right
Posts #170 and #171 show pictures of a variety of radiator/heater hose F-engine set ups: '62 FJ40 in the Netherlands
One quick observation is that your pump is the replacement angled inlet style, as opposed to the original straight inlet type. And consequently the corresponding original elbowed hard pipe was discarded on yours, replaced instead by that long, inelegant lower radiator hose. This commonly seen replacement pump is what screws everything up in terms of the correct angle of dangle, so to speak.
One quick observation is that your pump is the replacement angled inlet style, as opposed to the original straight inlet type. And consequently the corresponding original elbowed hard pipe was discarded on yours, replaced instead by that long, inelegant lower radiator hose. This commonly seen replacement pump is what screws everything up in terms of the correct angle of dangle, so to speak.
- Thread starter
- #186
@Old Red thats what I figured.
I hate flex hose.
I think I will try to integrate a modern junction pipe into it because Kurt sent me lower hoses that look like they would work well with it (and I have a new one)
If not I’ll put in a new flex hose.
That’s the only thing that has kept me local with this truck. I don’t trust the hoses. I should have all the parts I need to replace them all this weekend.
I hate flex hose.
I think I will try to integrate a modern junction pipe into it because Kurt sent me lower hoses that look like they would work well with it (and I have a new one)
If not I’ll put in a new flex hose.
That’s the only thing that has kept me local with this truck. I don’t trust the hoses. I should have all the parts I need to replace them all this weekend.
Here is my 65. It has the original rebuilt water pump and the s- metal pipe with the fitting coming off for the heater. Hope this helps. My 66 is the same.
- Thread starter
- #188
What, if anything are you using for PCV?
Also, where is your heater valve? I have a junction at the firewall but it’s not a manual valve like my 68 had.
Also, where is your heater valve? I have a junction at the firewall but it’s not a manual valve like my 68 had.
- Thread starter
- #189
My weirdness. They seem to have bypassed the bypass hose completely.
Do you know anyone that makes a replacement fuel line from the pump to the carb
- Thread starter
- #191
I had one made for my 68. It’s easier than finding one and much cheaper.
On my 66 I went without a heater valve. It's on all the time. My 66 has the stock one in the photo. The stock valves are hard to find and I would only buy one if it was new old stock. They are always bad.....
There have been others here that have used an aftermarket valve but I can't find the thread at the moment.
I also have a newer FJ40 Toyota heater valve from a middle 70's that I made work on one of the trucks. I used a cable like the original heater or vent cable to operate. I used the existing hole that's plugged in the heate control bracket. This valve works very well but you have to fab up a bracket and attach it someplace. I put it on the firewall.
Regards
Mark
- Thread starter
- #194
That’s what I did for my 68.
Your water pumps looks to be a later model? No direct fuel line replacements. If you have the two brass ends from old one, you can buy some copper tubing make your own. Most of the early ones were copper and so was the small copper line going to the distributor.
- Thread starter
- #197
So why does the early F have the oddball upper thermostat housing?
Good question....
- Thread starter
- #199
My truck has this with a clear plastic hose coming out of the bottom.
No valve anywhere. Oddly there is no hot water coming to the hoses inside the cab.
No valve anywhere. Oddly there is no hot water coming to the hoses inside the cab.
