Builds Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB (12 Viewers)

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Since our 45's are 5 numbers apart, here is my setup. Not sure if it is stock, but looks like it might be

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I think I saw somewhere that that’s to drain the feed hoses, but there needs to be a valve. I’m in good shape, cuz I don’t have anything lol!

Edit: here’s where I saw that. Pic is from John Pardi. Looks like everything is original except for clamps.
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I picked up a parts truck today mainly because it was close, priced right and RED.....

So. What Would Mud Do? WWMD?

My hood (the white is bondo)



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The “new” hood

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Do I swap them? The new hood is way nicer. I would swap hood pads of course.
 
It's a water drain hose per 64 parts book. It's hooked to that drain valve. If this drain valve isn't leaking don't move it. I did and it started leaking.....go figure and it's not available anywhere. I had to source brass valve with a petcock.
 
I like the colors of the new hood but I would be afraid it would not match the rest of the vehicle. Very cool coloring on the bib. Red lools cool when its all faded out

Really ????? New ???? hood without bondo still works. (In that condition)
 
Swap them and hang the original hood on the wall (retain it).
 
The
Swap them and hang the original hood on the wall (retain it).

My thoughts. I’ll likely test it out.

I also have some better front fenders. The ones on the truck are 4/10 condition and the others are 6/10 and 7/10
 
Nice find - a parts rig that’s not picked over (still has horn button and hood spear - seriously?!). I think my 45 was well on its way of being a parts rig. Can’t believe how much stuff is missing or maybe not put back from some earlier attempt to rebuild.

I’d swap out everything that is a better direct replacement, and maybe even better functional replacement. Then you can sell your leftovers to wonks like me lol.
 
Looking at my heater setup and laughing.

There is a nothing right here.

One outlet on the thermo housing has been plugged.

One (faded red) comes back to the bottom of the thermo housing from the heater core (firewall)

One (black) goes from the water pump to the heater core.

No valve. No pass through the block. The block input has a temp bung on the top but has been plugged.

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I’m leaning toward capping all this BS off and letting the cabin heat from the firewall until I get a later 40 heater valve and put it on the firewall and just operate it manually.

Coldest day in MS history last week and I was plenty warm without a heater blowing.
 
Swap the hood!

Done. It’s a much better piece and if you did not know you would never know.

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The original is in a place of honor over the beer fridge

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If you don’t have one of these tools that fits on the end of an air chisel then get one

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