I used a beck arnley brand seal.
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FJ60 rear main seal (2 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #22
Thanks again everyone for the advice? I ended up ordering one through the local dealership but thanks for the offer nevergiveup! I split the t-case today and got er mounted to the new tranny so at least that went well!
- Thread starter
- #23
Ok, I guess you can't help stupid. I pulled the oil pan and rear bearing cap and out popped this ring of metal ( that I thought was part of the housing back there.). Turns out it was the inner ring of the RMS. The old one was so degraded that the rubber covering had come off, leaving the metal ring behind. So while laughing at my stupidity for the rest of this evening I got the new seal in, oil pan back on, bellhousing and clutch back in.
Thanks for all your help with this noob folks!! Once again, can't help stupid lol!!
Thanks for all your help with this noob folks!! Once again, can't help stupid lol!!
I can assure you that you are not the first (or even possibly the 100th) to do this. The Cruiser path is well trodden with daily revelations like yours! Good job!!!
micruz60
Unleaded Regular
Thank you for doing the 'learning' that many of us will learn from.
I cannot wait to deal with this on mine... Ugh
You sound like my level of mechanical knowledge. I have to do exactly what you have done. My question is did you rebuild your transfer case or just disassemble it and reassemble it on the new transmission? Did you get a gasket kit for the tranfer case or put it back together with black formagacket? Thank for any advice you can give me.
- Thread starter
- #27
Hey,
At that time I did not rebuild the transfer case but did do all new gaskets. This past winter I ended up dropping the transmission and transfer case so I could do a rebuild on the t-case. I was popping out of 4hi and 4 low so figured it was time to do a rebuild while I was in there. It's funny, after all that hell with the RMS I ended up putting a V8 in a month layer lol.
At that time I did not rebuild the transfer case but did do all new gaskets. This past winter I ended up dropping the transmission and transfer case so I could do a rebuild on the t-case. I was popping out of 4hi and 4 low so figured it was time to do a rebuild while I was in there. It's funny, after all that hell with the RMS I ended up putting a V8 in a month layer lol.
- Thread starter
- #28
If you need any help on the rebuild let me know. I've now pulled mine apart about half dozen times and put it back together due to different issues I ran into during either the rebuild or the original install to the new tranny.
Ok thank you
kenavt
SILVER Star
Have other folks had success not dropping the oil pan and sliding a new OEM real main seal in (@TRAIL TAILOR @60Works)? I know the FAQ and write-ups say to drop the oil pan, but it's really appealing to just not do that (especially with my current build garage setup).
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g-man
SILVER Star
No. Not me. Had to do it twice. Drop the pan and the rear bearing cap and place it into position. We ARE talking about a Rear main seal right? Not a gasket.
g-man
SILVER Star
Then when I dropped the pan i found this: What the sludge? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/what-the-sludge.1053644/
FWIW - The rear main that I replaced without loosening the bearing journal leaks. Not bad. Just enough that I feel the need to try again someday. I couldn't say if the leak is caused by not dropping the journal or if the crank grooves were too deep to close with a new seal. The new seal tapped in fairly easily with no obvious hints of damage.
Considering that the pan gasket can leak and look a lot like a main seal; replacing the pan gasket is a good idea - and since you're already there - might as well loosen the 2 journal bolts...
Considering that the pan gasket can leak and look a lot like a main seal; replacing the pan gasket is a good idea - and since you're already there - might as well loosen the 2 journal bolts...
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kenavt
SILVER Star
Yes, sorry I meant the rear main seal (not a gasket). The trick that @Skniper mentions sounds nifty, but I think I might leave this until a transmission swap I'm contemplating then; need to finish my current engine install first and drive around for a bit. Not even sure if it's leaking the first place.
Dekeman
SILVER Star
So, if I decide to change my clutch and choose to replace the RMS because I should, and only because it's 40 yrs old, do I absolutely have to drop my freshly-gasketed and not-leaking oil pan? RMS is currently not leaking. Really don't want to drop the pan again, especially since the new pan gasket has a good seal.
Clutch still works fine, but my inspection of it shows it will need to be done soon. All new OEM parts in hand.
Clutch still works fine, but my inspection of it shows it will need to be done soon. All new OEM parts in hand.
If it was my vehicle, I wouldn’t touch the RMS if it wasn’t leaking- a lot.
Guys have replaced the RMS without dropping the pan, it’s just that doing it the drop-pan method guarantees a perfect seal installation every time.
Replacing the seal by prying it out and tapping in a new one without dropping the pan introduces the possibility of botching the install
g-man
SILVER Star
Agreed, if it ain't broke don't fix it. On my 1st try to replace the RMS, we tapped it in place carefully working around the seal. ONLY after putting everything back together and driving it, did we see a new and worse leak. The inner lip tore while tapping it in place. DIdn't find that out until I pulled it out and replaced again.
Hi, A little leak is good rust protection.
