First Vehicle to work on - FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Got it! Thanks! Ordered some scotch brite and a wire brush. Will properly clean it out also with solvent which i saw just now in a video on cleaning those things. Toilet brush Haha lets see. Already now paid quite some amount for tools and replacement parts. Again so hooked on the car. Finally got some time again.

 

[pb4ugo]

The rust is most likely from the lack of use. Sitting long times and maybe some water intrusion and condensation from heating and cooling thru the seasons. The internals are usually coated with 90wt gear lube, which would be the best protection. I'd address some of the internals surface rust and clean the inside of the housing and axles as best you can. In it current condition and low miles on it, I would replace all the bearings snd seals. B4 taking the 3rd apart I'd reference the backlash and look at the gear pattern with marking compound. On assembly, clean the rusty parts and try to set it back up the way it was. The pinion depth is at its factory setting, so setting pinion preload and backlash would probably be the only adjustments.

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Hi again

Sunday i cleaned up the workshop. And i need to make some space for parts which are overhauled soon. So i was moving things around swept the floor and things like that. Then i made it all dirty again. After banging for 3 hours on that Knuckle housing i finally got these dowels loose. Haha that was something. I think i will call her Lady T(h)rusty Rusty. Watching some videos and seeing people pull apart these pieces and then spending 3 times the amount to get them apart makes me feel like it was truly neccessary to overhaul her. Was great fun yesterday. Tomorrow next knuckle.

Im not sure how these front axle balls are called, but they look pitted. I read a lot about them. Ive seen someone using some Plastic Padding to fill in those grooves others sanding it down. Not sure yet what to do. I want it to last. So i think i try to sand it down...

Also got some new equipment. Some table grinder. I really liked that brush. Most of the parts turn out really clean and nice after brushing them. So looking forward to do that and then paint them black. Still open for suggestions. As i read many negative things about POR as soon as i started to research... I just want to coat some parts which i see are exposed. For example the tire facing side of the shaft. Or the hub. I dont think i need to get them blasted.

Anyone experience with these resellers?

• Amayama
• Megazip

I tend to order here. Their setup is really good for the parts. Of course some things i will also order from SOR as they have also good variety of kits.

And here is some progress.

 

[Paul_A]

Be careful with wire brush wheels. Some can rip the hell out of the surface and leave it looking shot peened. Try to find wheels with .008 wire or finer. And the more you use them the softer and better the surface they leave. I just got a few .005 from MSC. MSC is usually $$$ but these were reasonable.

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Hi there, i was there again. Rusty CV joint on one side and not smooth and clicking on the other side. So i guess its time to overhaul these two also. Both knuckles are removed from the front. Balls in the front look good. Im using liquid metal to make them smooth.

And this stuff to clean them.

Next up removing the differential from the front. Then im cleaning everything. I thought i can pressure wash and dry it very well. Then i get rid of most stuff. Next ospho and then i will brush it to get the ospho away. Anyways i think i will flush the differentials after its running after one or two months. Then i get all the stuff out which is not needed.

Update will follow soon. Watching a lot of videos on how to assemble. But i guess first cleaning then painting. Still waiting on a tip if i should use por or something else on the knuckle heads and such.

Cheers

 

[diesellibrarian]

Still waiting on a tip if i should use por or something

Rustoleum semi-gloss black is the ticket. Dries slowly, but is easy to apply and cures hard.

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Rustoleum semi-gloss black is the ticket. Dries slowly, but is easy to apply and cures hard.

Couldnt find that in switzerland so far...

I continued today in the morning and hope to get some routine in. I thought i will clean up the knuckles and paint them for a change so i also will see some shiny stuff and give a bit of a boost.

I got POR now... no idea but it really seemed the only thing one can get quickly which has at least some good reviews... i guess its good enough. Still waiting on the welder with the certificate for the frame. But preparing everything else that i can start then as soon as its back to rivet and re assemble the axles so i can make it stand again.

Attached some images.

I got that stud remover set. That was well worth it!

One question about rear axle. Is this part on the very end removable? I was thinking about replacing it but i cant find it.

Keep you posted.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Those look great, almost a shot peened finish. Good job!

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Updates, weeeeeeeeee

So i canned the POR15. No trust in this. So i saw that youtube video about AG 111. Unfortunately not available. So i went with Brantho Korrux 3-1. German Product and some good reviews in the German Cruiser world. I first treated the knuckles with ospho, thin layer. Let it 24h dry. And next step is wash with Mineral spirits and then Apply 2-3 Coats of Brantho. Confident this is fine.

Next up i used my sandblaster to blast that third member while its still attached. Im doing the same on the back tonite or tomorrow. So i can paint them also and then do the whole axles. Its crucial for me to get these going since tomorrow my frame is welded! YAAAY! Waiting since weeks for that.

Ordered all the necessary parts to rebuild the axles. So im pushing on them so when the frame gets back and i riveted everything up everything is ready to make this lady finally stand again. Im going to order the Terrain Tamer suspension Kit. So i then will be ready to reassemble.

Updates below. I will keep them coming.

Cheers

 

[RevISK]

Updates, weeeeeeeeee

So i canned the POR15. No trust in this. So i saw that youtube video about AG 111. Unfortunately not available. So i went with Brantho Korrux 3-1. German Product and some good reviews in the German Cruiser world. I first treated the knuckles with ospho, thin layer. Let it 24h dry. And next step is wash with Mineral spirits and then Apply 2-3 Coats of Brantho. Confident this is fine.

Next up i used my sandblaster to blast that third member while its still attached. Im doing the same on the back tonite or tomorrow. So i can paint them also and then do the whole axles. Its crucial for me to get these going since tomorrow my frame is welded! YAAAY! Waiting since weeks for that.

Ordered all the necessary parts to rebuild the axles. So im pushing on them so when the frame gets back and i riveted everything up everything is ready to make this lady finally stand again. Im going to order the Terrain Tamer suspension Kit. So i then will be ready to reassemble.

Updates below. I will keep them coming.

Cheers

View attachment 3817616

View attachment 3817618

View attachment 3817620

I came from the vintage travel trailer/airstream world where everyone touted POR15, I can’t stand it. Good for you for finding something else.

Project is looking great.

 

[OlYellr]

I came from the vintage travel trailer/airstream world where everyone touted POR15, I can’t stand it. Good for you for finding something else.

Project is looking great.

I agree - I tried POR when I first got mine 40 after some advice - did all the prep too - still it comes off in strips. POR is really POS15 - so with my frame work - I went similar route vs making that mistake again. I make enough already with out repeating myself.

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Hi all

I had some good days in the shop. Painted the Knuckles heads, but will apply one more layer. Just to be sure.

Then got that frame welded. Im not sure how good that work is. The guy told me its good. It seems a bit unprecise. So i called a friend wo is a blacksmith to see what he thinks. And he said structurally it is very good but optically its meh. Well that doesnt bother me too much. I was afraid it was structurally not good enough. But we are finally a step closer here

So while i was in the discussion with the paint shops and restoration companies all of them told me since im already almost at the barebones of the frame i should take it apart. Too much rust was building up in between the two frame parts. So the convinced me to do it. Means i will completely dismantle all rivets. And i need to figure out how to get that pipe cut. As i see it is welded to both parts of the frame...

The blacksmith who came over said he is going to create those rivets and we are trying to press them cold since we dont want to burn off the whole base coat once its done.

I will now remove all rivets. Get it sandblasted and zinkpowder coated. Then i rivet everything together and then get it powdercoated. This will surely take me some weeks until im there. But hey i have enough other things to do I started to dismantle the front brake rotor disk and removed all of the bearings there. Will work on the differential housing and clean and paint them to assemble them back again. Parts are ordered. To get them done when the frame comes back. Still some heavy work which is going to happen before i can finally make her stand on her own feet again. But steadily im getting there. It sure is fun to work on the car.

Also ordered a sandblaster chamber and a big compressor. Gearing up in this shop. This car is also the excuse to get a proper workshop set up. hahaha.

In July my tub is coming. Latest then i want the frame and breaks to be done.

 

[rainingagain]

Hi again

Sunday i cleaned up the workshop. And i need to make some space for parts which are overhauled soon. So i was moving things around swept the floor and things like that. Then i made it all dirty again. After banging for 3 hours on that Knuckle housing i finally got these dowels loose. Haha that was something. I think i will call her Lady T(h)rusty Rusty. Watching some videos and seeing people pull apart these pieces and then spending 3 times the amount to get them apart makes me feel like it was truly neccessary to overhaul her. Was great fun yesterday. Tomorrow next knuckle.

Im not sure how these front axle balls are called, but they look pitted. I read a lot about them. Ive seen someone using some Plastic Padding to fill in those grooves others sanding it down. Not sure yet what to do. I want it to last. So i think i try to sand it down...

Also got some new equipment. Some table grinder. I really liked that brush. Most of the parts turn out really clean and nice after brushing them. So looking forward to do that and then paint them black. Still open for suggestions. As i read many negative things about POR as soon as i started to research... I just want to coat some parts which i see are exposed. For example the tire facing side of the shaft. Or the hub. I dont think i need to get them blasted.

Anyone experience with these resellers?

• Amayama
• Megazip

I tend to order here. Their setup is really good for the parts. Of course some things i will also order from SOR as they have also good variety of kits.

And here is some progress.

View attachment 3789188

View attachment 3789189

View attachment 3789190

View attachment 3789191

View attachment 3789192

I assume you already saw this thread. Neglected Balls (Rusty & Pitted Knuckles) - UPDATED w/Results - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/neglected-balls-rusty-pitted-knuckles-updated-w-results.1188888/

When I first saw that thread, my mind went to All-Metal. It's an aluminum based filler that I have personally used and powder coated over with great results. I know people that have used it to fill pits and then chromed the piece and it sticks.

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

I assume you already saw this thread. Neglected Balls (Rusty & Pitted Knuckles) - UPDATED w/Results - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/neglected-balls-rusty-pitted-knuckles-updated-w-results.1188888/

When I first saw that thread, my mind went to All-Metal. It's an aluminum based filler that I have personally used and powder coated over with great results. I know people that have used it to fill pits and then chromed the piece and it sticks.

Hi

Yes i saw it, thats why i bought the plastic metal and also the offroad seal kit already! Also the strip discs. All based on that thread Nonetheless thank you for bringing it up!

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Back at it again.

Getting up at 4 in the morning to go to the shop every second day. Only way i can find time these days...

I got new equipment. Safe to say i have gone a bit creazy with these two investments. They turned out to be bigger than expected... even though i measured. Well anyways i have a big sandcabinet now This one can be opened from the side so i will build a wooden box and put it instead of the door if i have large pieces. So i will sand the axles here. And the compressor was just needed for sandblasting. Im also quite sure i will be happy with that thing for the rest of my life. Bigger hoses etc all are also acquired already.

As you can see the frame is shining in some places. The previous owner has welded support onto it. Not sure what it was supposed to do because it weakened other parts by doing so. So i removed that and ground it down. Tomorrow a Blacksmith is coming buy with new rivets. We try to cold press them. This way we hope we wont damage the undercoat after it was treated. Because hot welding will burn the coat immediately and exposing the metal. And i hope he can help me with the separation of the frame parts. Rivets are all out. I will try to punch numbers into the frame to make sure i know where the parts belong so i can see after undercoating.

Really happy to have that blacksmith around me. He debunked a few statements already and knows how to handle that material well.

I have painted some of the other rooms in this shop as im working often from home i created a little office space there where i want to spend more time. So ill be in the garage more often. Drinking a coffee and looking at the car gives me pleasure.

Ive attached a video of the welding:

You will see buttcheeks be prepared








I will probably make a video of the cold welding too. Because i couldnt find info on that.

 

[45Dougal]

Kids and 40 projects don't go hand in hand.
Great to see that you at least have the space and the commitment!
We might pass through Zurich in summer to the seehaasenfest... maybe I can bring some rusty metal since your cabinet is so big

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Kids and 40 projects don't go hand in hand.
Great to see that you at least have the space and the commitment!
We might pass through Zurich in summer to the seehaasenfest... maybe I can bring some rusty metal since your cabinet is so big

My Cabinet is your Cabinet. Anytime!

 

[cruisermatt]

good call avoiding POR15.. that stuff is garbage. 42137-55010 are the collars on the ends of the rear axle housing. Available new inexpensively.

 

[PidgeonGuggolo]

Parts have arrived Very satisfying to see how shiny these are. Started to organize everything in trays.

Progress on the frame, split into two pieces. They are not in a too bad condition. Just one place where gets too thin. Smashed out all the tack welded nuts. Most of them were rusty some even partially gone, will use rivet nuts to replace them. I took a piece of paper and drew the frame and each of the whole on it and then marked the places i need a nut. Needs roughly 52 rivet nuts.

After the one part on the frame is fixed its finally off to be blasted and zinc powder coated. Thats what the guys suggested, sounds reasonable to me. Then riveting all together and then powder coating after all. Since we got the frames separated wouldnt it be better to coat the inner parts of the frame rails with the final coating and then do the riveting? As i understand powder coating needs to happen in one go. Or am i wrong?

In the fourth picture i was hitting my knuckle with a small steel part to see how well that color holds onto the knuckle. Im not sure if this is good enough but i suppose once a stone hits that thing there is no more protection on it. Maybe the product i used is s***e after all. Whats your guys impression on that? I hit this thing about 10 times.

Lastly but most importantly my father in law died. Im very happy i took him to the garage just weeks before as ive never invited him prior to that. He was helping me figuring out the rear frame rail situation. Then we had a white table dinner and some beers. We enjoyed it a lot and wanted to do it every couple of weeks since he enjoyed it as he was a handyman himself... Very sad this will never happen again. He wanted to be part of the first ride so i promised to pick him up...

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Sad to hear of his passing. Health and quality of your remaining years is where it matters the most. One thing is to look at metal as metal. Other is metal with history of all kinds. My biggest enjoyment working on these rigs is meeting and building friendships of all kinds.