Neglected Balls (Rusty & Pitted Knuckles) - UPDATED w/Results (1 Viewer)

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Drake2

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Sadly my balls were neglected for way too long and now the healing needs to begin ;). This is the donor 1980 FJ40 front axle after tear down for a knuckle rebuild. I did the usual search for suggestions and remedies but what I found was 4+ years old so I'm wondering if there has been any new developments or thoughts on the best method to deal with the pitting. Some have stated sand, clean and run as it but there may be some dripping or leaking. I would like to avoid this if possible. What is the best way to remove the rust (sanding, wire wheel, flap disc, etc...) so I can get a good look at the extent of the pitting?

Thanks for any input.

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Your plan A might be the wire wheel and sandpaper method, but the pitting is pretty significant and it will weep grease more easily than a good set of balls. Your plan B might be good donors off an FJ40 or FJ60 axle. Basically you'd use the Cut and Turn principle.
 
That doesn't look too deep try a flap disc on a grinder, yes you will take off some metal but not alot..
 
There was a suggestion to use JB Weld to attempt to get a smoother surface when I went thorough mine. I didn't try it, they weren't that bad. But what could it hurt?

Clean 'em good with acetone, and then put a smooth coat, surface with sandpaper.

Rocky
 
My housing had the pits filled with jb weld. I’d fill it, sand it, and move on with life. They are not bad enough to be structural. The only issue the rust will cause is tearing up felt seals.
 
Taking a flap wheel or any other heavy "sanding" approach to a set of steering knuckles is just crazy. DO NOT do that.

Use a cup wheel wire brush on an angle grinder to clean all the rust off. Filling the pitting with a good epoxy is a good approach.

I have a housing here I am going to get powder coated soon. When I do I will have them coat the knuckle balls extra thick to fill the pitting. Expect that it will work very well.

Mark...
 
I think I may have been able to save these knuckles. After the rework I can not fell any imperfections, flat spots, etc...on the one side. The other side I can feel some of the deeper pits but nothing above the ball surface. Maybe further rework not necessary what do you think? Should I still go with a skim layer of filler? This will be a daily driver as well as weekend trail runner. As far as the oddly marked bearing races, I am addressing those in the build thread (Forsaken 40) in my sig.

What I used for the results shown below. I wanted to test what the effect of these types of wheels would have so I bought a couple from Harbor Freight (even thought I despise that store and their China garbage). Turns out this type of wheel (rather than a flap disc) had an unexpected, but good result IMO. There were not really many sparks coming off but they did remove all the high spots of rust accumulation resulting in very minimal pitting below the surface. I took many passes and alternated the direction and angle of each one. It was interesting that if I focused on one spot going back and forth enough if would give me a slight mirror polish. They did generate quite a bit of heat on the ball surface as I could not touch it right afterwards. I had to use the die grinder and small wheel to get as close to the axle tube as I could because the head of the grinder and the shock mount kept banging heads. Large wheel was $5.99 and the small wheel was $1.99. The process took about 20 minutes per side.

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Before:

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After:

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Other side (before):

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After:

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That turned out nice,. The grease will fill the small voids,. If you use good Toyota or aftermarket wipers that should seal well,. I would try another pass with something finer,. You could even do a guide coat of paint and sand it with a foam block looking for high/ low spots.. doesn't have to be perfect just smooth enough for the wiper to do its job...
 
i have knuckles and spindles for sale that don't look too bad and I have already cleaned them that i wanting to sell.
 
Nice balls!
 
i have knuckles and spindles for sale that don't look too bad and I have already cleaned them that i wanting to sell.
My knuckles and spindles are all good but PM me with some pics and a price.
 
@Drake2 that I the exact type of wheel I have used before. Works great for smoothing them out without eating away too much steel.
@cbmontgo I was very impressed with the performance of those wheels. Keeping a few on hand these days.
 

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