Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80

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Finally added the stiffener bracket. Should help keep that long beam like member from vibrating too much. I really wish I could have put the ECM in the cab, maybe under a seat or inside the center consoul, but that connector is so big I don't think I would fit between all the HVAC crap.


 
Hand throttles are nice :meh:
If its possible to make both the cruise control and primary engine throttle work with a witches brew of parts that it should also be possible to keep the OEM 80 series hand throttle since it interfaces with the throttle pedal.

Does anyone have an FJ80 throttle cables they would be willing to part with? I guess now would be a good time to take measurements and figure out what needs to be done.
 
You can use the Cummins ECM to raise or lower the idle. On the semi's I work on you would turn on cruise and then hold the increase button until you're at the rpm you wanted. You can also program it to have a fast idle warm up mode.
 
Its been awhile since my last update, not much has been going on. Waiting for a few parts to arrive. I have finally got the accessory drive done with the AC compressor installed. This was my one short cut on this project. I splurged for the extremely overpriced Axis Industries high mount mega bracket. Its a decent piece, it is lacking mounting holes to secure the wiring harness, that disappointed me very much given the price of almost 1400 dollars.

They also forgot to mention that the required serp belt is from a mid 90's MB S600 something with a V12, so don't think your just going to roll into Autozone and leave with one of those.

Here are a few shots of the actual bracket.





Mounted to cummins, it actually fits well. I was surprised...



Power steering pump installed


AC and alternator installed


Belt installed with Cummins AC spec tensioner


I guess I can consider this issue resolved, finally got the AC compressor to fit without any chassis cutting.

Does anyone on here know much about different steering setups for the 80 series platform? Is there an easy way to move the link that connects the two knuckles to infront of the axle?

Cheers!
 
I need to correct a small detail. The above belt routing is wrong, there is not enough tension. The photo below is correct, the belt is a tight fit, best to slip it over the fan pulley last taking advantage of that nice radiused edge.

Nice that neither Axis or Cummins publish a belt routing diagram that includes an AC compressor so its really trial and error. Previously the belt looked tight but there was no available spring tension left in the tensioner, oops.

 
That bracket is an impressive chunk of aluminum!

There are a couple options to move the tie rod to the front of the axle:
One involves getting a left side steering arm from a right hand drive truck.
Another is to buy high-steer arms from Slee Offroad to fit the OEM knuckles.
Other options involve complete replacement knuckles with different steering configurations.

All options require mods to existing steering/suspension parts. Some more than others.
 
Just looking at that belt routing makes me dizzy...

Great build BTW ;)
 
Its been awhile since my last update, not much has been going on. Waiting for a few parts to arrive. I have finally got the accessory drive done with the AC compressor installed. This was my one short cut on this project. I splurged for the extremely overpriced Axis Industries high mount mega bracket. Its a decent piece, it is lacking mounting holes to secure the wiring harness, that disappointed me very much given the price of almost 1400 dollars.

They also forgot to mention that the required serp belt is from a mid 90's MB S600 something with a V12, so don't think your just going to roll into Autozone and leave with one of those.

Here are a few shots of the actual bracket.





Mounted to cummins, it actually fits well. I was surprised...



Power steering pump installed


AC and alternator installed


Belt installed with Cummins AC spec tensioner


I guess I can consider this issue resolved, finally got the AC compressor to fit without any chassis cutting.

Does anyone on here know much about different steering setups for the 80 series platform? Is there an easy way to move the link that connects the two knuckles to infront of the axle?

Cheers!

You should definitely send me an email before buying stuff like this. There is a Cummins part that does the same job and is much cheaper.
 
You should definitely send me an email before buying stuff like this. There is a Cummins part that does the same job and is much cheaper.
Please do tell!
I have a theory about axis... I am not sure i should publicly share it however.
 
Front range offroad has high steer knuckles.

Not as of 4/12/19! I have been emailing and calling them for 2 years. That project is still on the back burner for them.

It took me 3 months and several calls to get knuckle and hub studs and tie rod and drag link from them. Even then, the tap was bad on drag link, I sent it back and got on from Slee.

I think Front Range Off Road has great product ideas, but suffers from small shop syndrome, not knowing how to scale up their business.
 

These were actually produced, but currently shown as out of stock. I like the CONCEPT of the Front Range knuckles better, allowing larger brakes and ABS retention. Keep bugging them hoping to get them produced.
 
Does anyone on here know much about different steering setups for the 80 series platform? Is there an easy way to move the link that connects the two knuckles to infront of the axle?

Cheers!

@Delta VS - You’ve done great things for 80 suspension geometry with rear track bar mount and radius arms (both of which I have), it’s time to step up with a high steer correction for the 80! :clap:

Ideally it would move the tie rod to the front, allowing for the use of 9.5” LC 3rd (my biggest gripe about 80 is the front axle got a weaker ring and pinion while getting larger birfields under heavier and stronger vehicle relative to 40 and 60). Tie rod in front would also simplify swapping engines.
 
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Be careful what you wish for. Every company that has made a high steer for the 80 has eventually failed with their product. It started with the OTT arms. They had my knuckles for over a year and I received their last set. Now there are 2 companies offering high steer both are impossible to get. I really like the arm keyed to the knuckle since it takes the load off the studs if they aren’t perfectly tight but don’t hold your breath. Lol

@Delta VS - You’ve done great things for 80 suspension geometry with rear track bar mount and radius arms (both of which I have), it’s time to step up with a high steer correction for the 80! :clap:

Ideally it would move the tie rod to the front, allowing for the use of 9.5” LC 3rd (my biggest gripe about 80 is the front axle got a weaker ring and pinion while getting larger birfields under heavier and stronger vehicle relative to 40 and 60). Tie rod in front would also simplify swapping engines.
 
Thanks for the leads on the 80 series steering stuff. If oil pan clearance is not enough the steering link might have to be moved in front of the axle.

My gut is that it will be necessary but i wont know for sure until i get everything else done.

Whats this talk to knuckles that accept larger brakes?
 
Awesome work! I might have missed it earlier in the thread but how did you make the aluminum adaptor/hub on page 1?
Parts were measured using blue light scanner and then I designed what was needed in CAD
 
Another small update. I have some pictures of the oil pan clearance, no exact measurements yet but feel free to guess whether or not I will have problems.





I want to say the R2.8 is lighter than the 1FZ, actually I have no doubts about that. From the last time I had the suspension loaded the front was atleast an inch higher in the front than before I removed the 1FZ. That 1FZ is no small engine!!

Several pages ago you guys might have seen my attempt at making an intercooler. I was very unhappy with the finished product so I decided to start with a clean slate and come up with something new. Cummins publishes some heat rejection requirements for both the radiator and intercooler, problem is no self respecting company is going to give you info on heat rejection per unit area vs air speed for one of there proprietary core designs.

I was able however to work with a radiator company and give them some specs to work with and have them give me a yes or no answer as to weather or not a specific cooling package will work for my application. I talked to C and R radiators, they offer top notch serivce, materials and workmanship.

After some correspondence a design was settled on that would only require a little bit of battery box trimming and bending of the brake lines by the steering box.







This design puts the intercooler and radiator in parallel instead of in series like is common on most trucks, it should minimize air temp to each cooling core. Two spal fans take care of airflow at low speeds and the rubber flaps open at high speeds to not impede airflow thru the cores. I need to find some aluminum to make the necessary brackets for the install, but this should give a good idea of how it will sit.






It looks like my oil filter is in an excellent spot, plenty of room above for the hot charge pipe. A simple removal of the front belly pan for oil changes, plenty of room for channel lock use on the filter.

Should have some progress to show in a few days, stay tuned!
 

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