- Thread starter
- #221
They were all done on a CNC machine, not my machine.
Builds Cummins R2.8 H151 Swap into 1993 FZJ80 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter PurpleFJ62
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- Thread starter
- #222
Finally got the radiator installed. My tig welding is getting better, for anyone out there trying to learn I suggest checking out the pulser function if your machine has one. I will let the pictures do the talking this time.
How need to trim battery boxes and bend those brake lines somehow.
How need to trim battery boxes and bend those brake lines somehow.
- Thread starter
- #223
Did a small mod to those pesky brake lines. Those brake lines are hard to bent with your fingers, let me tell you.
I hope a 45 degree silicone hose connector will fit in there, I don't really want to weld and mandrel bends on the intercooler outlet.
I hope a 45 degree silicone hose connector will fit in there, I don't really want to weld and mandrel bends on the intercooler outlet.
- Thread starter
- #224
Got another problem solved today. The orientation of the turbocharger is not ideal on the R2.8, and much to my surprise it is not clockable, way to go cummins! Given my cooling package I really want the boost tube from the compressor housing to the intercooler inlet to run right over the RHS frame rail, not up near the hood as the original setup would have wanted. There was not enough room between the airbox and the AC compressor anyway, so something drastic had to be done.
There were some thoughts about ditching the factory airbox, but components like that are what separates a Land Cruiser from a Jeep. The only place I have seen a filter box of that quality is on a farm tractor, I mean its got the kick ass little trap door to get the particulates out, never seen that on no Heep. So basically the air box stays.
I needed to clock the compressor housing 90 degrees CCW, but this would not be easy since the wastegate bracket is part of the compressor housing. Here is the unit, its a Holset HE211W for those who are intrested.
First up is to remove the locating pin that prohibits incorrect assembly
Next I discovered that the supplied compressor housing elbow is not optimal for fitment in the FZJ80, that really ruined my day. I tried to find an alternative but the only one I found was north of 200 dollars from cummins, and it did not appear to have a tighter radius. I got a 1.75 inch 90 degree bend and went to work putting a bead on it.
Next, I welded it to the compressor housing. Getting the torch in there was hard, I will have to figure out a better way to do welds like this, you can see where it does not look so good. At least when installed I don't have to look at it.
Next I cut off the mounting tab for the wastegate with a band saw.
Move it 90 degrees and reweld, simple as that.
It had to go on a part of the compressor housing with a larger radius, so the diaphragm does not fit quite right, instead of grinding I used some washers as spacers. The actuator rod is adjustable so it was not a big deal.
Reassembled and installed. Here are some overall pictures so you can see the layout.
Next order of business will be to figure out how to get fresh filtered air to the compressor inlet. From looking at a few land cruisers I have an idea.
I think an airbox top off of an HDJ80 would help a lot since it was a nice circular discharge pipe with a downward exit going in the direction of there the turbo is. From there some kind of 90 degree rubber boot thing perhaps, or a silcone connector, not sure on that part yet.
Does anyone have a HDJ80 airbox top around they can part with?
There were some thoughts about ditching the factory airbox, but components like that are what separates a Land Cruiser from a Jeep. The only place I have seen a filter box of that quality is on a farm tractor, I mean its got the kick ass little trap door to get the particulates out, never seen that on no Heep. So basically the air box stays.
I needed to clock the compressor housing 90 degrees CCW, but this would not be easy since the wastegate bracket is part of the compressor housing. Here is the unit, its a Holset HE211W for those who are intrested.
First up is to remove the locating pin that prohibits incorrect assembly
Next I discovered that the supplied compressor housing elbow is not optimal for fitment in the FZJ80, that really ruined my day. I tried to find an alternative but the only one I found was north of 200 dollars from cummins, and it did not appear to have a tighter radius. I got a 1.75 inch 90 degree bend and went to work putting a bead on it.
Next, I welded it to the compressor housing. Getting the torch in there was hard, I will have to figure out a better way to do welds like this, you can see where it does not look so good. At least when installed I don't have to look at it.
Next I cut off the mounting tab for the wastegate with a band saw.
Move it 90 degrees and reweld, simple as that.
It had to go on a part of the compressor housing with a larger radius, so the diaphragm does not fit quite right, instead of grinding I used some washers as spacers. The actuator rod is adjustable so it was not a big deal.
Reassembled and installed. Here are some overall pictures so you can see the layout.
Next order of business will be to figure out how to get fresh filtered air to the compressor inlet. From looking at a few land cruisers I have an idea.
I think an airbox top off of an HDJ80 would help a lot since it was a nice circular discharge pipe with a downward exit going in the direction of there the turbo is. From there some kind of 90 degree rubber boot thing perhaps, or a silcone connector, not sure on that part yet.
Does anyone have a HDJ80 airbox top around they can part with?
Looking good. I had to pull that same pin out of my HE351 so I could clock it also. I thought about doing what you did with the waste gate but went with a modified spring actuator instead. I can weld steel at home. Welding aluminum is not in my wheel house yet.
- Thread starter
- #226
As you can see from the weld between the compressor housing and the mandrel bend, aluminum is not exactly my forte either.
Should have went with a slightly larger size of tubing, the resulting weld would have been much easier.
Should have went with a slightly larger size of tubing, the resulting weld would have been much easier.
- Thread starter
- #227
Did you put the spring back in the turbo to keep the compressor housing from turning? The snap ring that holds my housing on is so tight I cant see the need for a mechanical constrain to keep things aligned.
I have the feeling the pin is there to make sure people on the assembly line don't put it together in the wrong way, nothing more nothing less than that.
- Thread starter
- #228
Time to get into a little wiring. I don't have any supplies to dive into other things at the moment.
I am going to begin by prepping the cruiser to accept my modified warning lights. This requires the installation of 4 relays to allow the Cummins ECM to switch grounds and in turn switch positive 12 volts to the individual bulbs.
First the correct wires must be isolated to light up the bulbs in the old prndl display.
For reference here is the plug IH1
Here is IH2
and IH3
From the toyota side we only need to source 5 wires, obviously the 4 for the 4 bulbs, the fifth is 12 volts to power the relays. I took this from the wire that supplies switched 12 volts to the 1FZ injectors, this made sense to me because there are no longer injectors and its on a keyed circuit.
Then I added a 4 terminal weatherpack connector that will ground the coils in the relays, this will be connected to the r2.8 ECM in the future.
Last thing to do was to secure the relays behind the glove box. Should have gone with smaller relays but too late for that. I found some space and put them in there with zip ties.
I am going to begin by prepping the cruiser to accept my modified warning lights. This requires the installation of 4 relays to allow the Cummins ECM to switch grounds and in turn switch positive 12 volts to the individual bulbs.
First the correct wires must be isolated to light up the bulbs in the old prndl display.
For reference here is the plug IH1
Here is IH2
and IH3
From the toyota side we only need to source 5 wires, obviously the 4 for the 4 bulbs, the fifth is 12 volts to power the relays. I took this from the wire that supplies switched 12 volts to the 1FZ injectors, this made sense to me because there are no longer injectors and its on a keyed circuit.
Then I added a 4 terminal weatherpack connector that will ground the coils in the relays, this will be connected to the r2.8 ECM in the future.
Last thing to do was to secure the relays behind the glove box. Should have gone with smaller relays but too late for that. I found some space and put them in there with zip ties.
No spring. I only have the snap ring and threw the pin away. It was not fun getting off and on. Broke the ends off the snap ring pliers. I prefer the ring that I can get off with channel locks like on my HX35.
- Thread starter
- #230
It time for an expert opinion regarding 80 series front suspensions. I have been investigating the oil pan to axle/diff clearance issue as of late and I have some concerns.
First up, the bump stops. I have no experience with these.
Here is LHS on full compression.
RHS on full compression
Seems to me that there is a difference between RHS and LHS inboard bump stops, the RHS one is not even touching the axle in the pictures as you can see, what gives?
Also the RHS outboard bumpstop does not seem to be making good contact with the axle side spring perch. Does this suggest evidence of a prior accident?
The rest are trying to get some measurments of engine block to axle clearance. I'm going to throw them in here just for the reference of others.
I was really hoping for a different oil pickup design on an engine that is supposted to be swap friendly. What cummins has created here will be very hard for a diy'er to work with, but i'd say its par for the course given what the previous 11 pages of this thread contain.
First up, the bump stops. I have no experience with these.
Here is LHS on full compression.
RHS on full compression
Seems to me that there is a difference between RHS and LHS inboard bump stops, the RHS one is not even touching the axle in the pictures as you can see, what gives?
Also the RHS outboard bumpstop does not seem to be making good contact with the axle side spring perch. Does this suggest evidence of a prior accident?
The rest are trying to get some measurments of engine block to axle clearance. I'm going to throw them in here just for the reference of others.
I was really hoping for a different oil pickup design on an engine that is supposted to be swap friendly. What cummins has created here will be very hard for a diy'er to work with, but i'd say its par for the course given what the previous 11 pages of this thread contain.
Dilspec
SILVER Star
Such an amazing build...
- Thread starter
- #232
Time for the rest of the oil pan pictures
My guess is the second bump stop is their so that if the primary bumpstop squished a lot from a large impact or failed the axle won't smash the oil pan.
- Thread starter
- #234
The left side bump stops both hit the axle at the same time.
Does that mean anything to the suspension masters?
Does that mean anything to the suspension masters?
The later model 80’s didn’t have the frame mounted bump stops, only spring perch ones. You should be good. I added them on both mine with block between them to extend them. I didn’t extend the spring perch ones.
That is one of the things I don't like about the R2.8 is that plastic oil pan you get one unfriendly rock and it's going to be a bad day, I have picked up rocks and dinged my steel inter cooler tube. I wish you luck and success, with your adventure
- Thread starter
- #237
I could not agree more about the oil pan. So much for being swap friendly, aside from being plastic the oil pick up tube is a part of the oil pan. So if you needed to move the sump a considerable amount or do a front sump setup you could not move the oil pickup tube.
Truth be told I already broke a fin off the plastic pan just working with it, if they released a version in aluminum that would be very nice. Not a problem with the 6BT, what a kickass engine!
- Thread starter
- #238
I investigated the bumpstops a bit today. I have been paying close attention to my oilpan clearance and I want to be sure that no accidents will occur down the road in the middle of nowhere.
First, here are the inboard stops, they are not the same but both appear to have 10 digit part numbers on them, OEM?
Here is an outboard stop with about 2000 pounds applied to it. My press guage is not accurate, the graduations are in tons, so I tried to get it to the first mark. Its a lot, you can see the the outboard stops really compress a lot, this has me worried.
The inboard stops are much stiffer...
In a previous post I made the observation that the inboard RHS stop has about 1/2 inch of gap when the axle is touching both outer stops, meaning that my axle could possibly fit the oilpan if the right conditions were present. I think I am going to install 1 inch spacers over all of the bumpstops just to be sure that no contact occurs, and 1.5 inch spacer will be installed in the inboard RHS stop to make it the same as the LH one. Does anyone think this will cause any problems?
First, here are the inboard stops, they are not the same but both appear to have 10 digit part numbers on them, OEM?
Here is an outboard stop with about 2000 pounds applied to it. My press guage is not accurate, the graduations are in tons, so I tried to get it to the first mark. Its a lot, you can see the the outboard stops really compress a lot, this has me worried.
The inboard stops are much stiffer...
In a previous post I made the observation that the inboard RHS stop has about 1/2 inch of gap when the axle is touching both outer stops, meaning that my axle could possibly fit the oilpan if the right conditions were present. I think I am going to install 1 inch spacers over all of the bumpstops just to be sure that no contact occurs, and 1.5 inch spacer will be installed in the inboard RHS stop to make it the same as the LH one. Does anyone think this will cause any problems?
- Thread starter
- #239
It appears I am ahead of Cummins in the design of an aluminum oilpan for the R2.8. I cant believe that such things even need to be done in this world, but I got myself into this mess and come hell or high water I will get my self out.
I scanned the gasket surface and went to town designing something that I think will work. I still need to do a final round of measurements to verify that it clears the main caps and counterweights.
The pickup tube design is very different on this engine than I was expecting, there is no flange with a tube like you would see on a 1FZ or pretty much any other engine, and its on the front right corner closest to the front diff, this just compounded the problems in a doubly exponential manner.
Dont laugh at the pickup tube, its essentially a trough, but since I cant cast a single oil pan I need to be innovative.
What a trip...
Any engine experts out there know roughly how much space you should have between the bottom of the pickup screen and the oil pan?
I scanned the gasket surface and went to town designing something that I think will work. I still need to do a final round of measurements to verify that it clears the main caps and counterweights.
The pickup tube design is very different on this engine than I was expecting, there is no flange with a tube like you would see on a 1FZ or pretty much any other engine, and its on the front right corner closest to the front diff, this just compounded the problems in a doubly exponential manner.
Dont laugh at the pickup tube, its essentially a trough, but since I cant cast a single oil pan I need to be innovative.
What a trip...
Any engine experts out there know roughly how much space you should have between the bottom of the pickup screen and the oil pan?
- Thread starter
- #240
This must all just seem like a scattered mess, I have working on more than two things at any one time. Right now there are wires all over the engine compartment, oil dripping on the floor and i'm trying to figure out the airbox to turbo crap.
I mention that because I finally got ahold of a HDJ80 airbox cover, I think it will work perfectly for this install.
Here they are side by side for reference. HDJ one is on the left.
Installed...
It appears that the airbox itself is different for the 1FZ. That stud for the wing nut is way to long, another ****ing problem to solve. It just never ends on this damn thing! I guess i'll make a spacer dowel on a lathe, I dont feel like cutting the stud out.
And to cap things off, finally after months of waiting and hoping for a cheap one on ebay, it arrived. Now I can pretend to drive it and not scrap my hand on the threads.
Saludos!
I mention that because I finally got ahold of a HDJ80 airbox cover, I think it will work perfectly for this install.
Here they are side by side for reference. HDJ one is on the left.
Installed...
It appears that the airbox itself is different for the 1FZ. That stud for the wing nut is way to long, another ****ing problem to solve. It just never ends on this damn thing! I guess i'll make a spacer dowel on a lathe, I dont feel like cutting the stud out.
And to cap things off, finally after months of waiting and hoping for a cheap one on ebay, it arrived. Now I can pretend to drive it and not scrap my hand on the threads.
Saludos!
